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Rear calipers???

Hodge Podge

New CEG'er
Joined
Sep 6, 2003
Messages
25
Location
Ohio
Changing out my rear rotors and pads on my 2000 CSVT. The Caliper uses hex bolts. Anyone know why?? What size is it? The front calipers weren't this way, it went much smoother. Thanks for any help.
 
It is a T50...you can pick one up at the local auto parts store. Walmart may have one if so they would be much cheaper. As far as why ford did that I have no clue...I asked the same question the 1st time I did my brakes. Also not sure if you know this or not but make sure you dont use a c-clamp to get the piston to go back in on the rears. You have to turn them clock wise. There is a tool for that also but channel locks work just fine. Just be careful not to damage the rubber boot.
 
Actually if a previous owner ever put in a new caliper/calipers he could very well have a hex head back there. I've bought reman'd calipers and one came with a hex and one with the T50 torx. I just re-used the one good torx I managed to get out without stripping/torching to keep it all the same. It's probably a T50 though and be VERY careful when taking it out, they have a tendency to be stuck and not want to come out. Heat helps here. If you blow one out the replacement size is M10x1.5x80 and you can use an allen head. You'll likely have to order one online so this is more incentive not to booger one up lol.

And yes, the rears on this car do not compress with a big honkin set of pliers (or the actual correct tool but I've literally NEVER see anyone use one), you can buy a little cube with a bunch of nubs that goes on the end of a 3/8" extension from any chain store. Turn the piston clockwise to spin it back down into place, it should sit ALMOST flush but not quite with the rubber boot. If it doesn't then bring it back out all the way and go in again, keep at it until it sits down in there. I had an epic battle with my brakes upgrading to the NPGs out back, its documented on here lol. A stock brake job should go quite smoothly.
 
Well I just finished. It ended up being a T50, although I dono where it came from. My bro also used his break caliper piston tool aka "the cube". It was a pain in the ass and way too cold outside for being spring. But we jus finished it. The front pads went muuuuch smoother. Thanks for the help everyone. Oh ya. I was able to drive my car again after it had been sitting for months. I have filed my problem down to a tranny issue.
 
Get ahold of Terry Haines for a badass tranny if you need a new one. Or if its just the shift forks you can do it yourself pretty easily. Regardless, pulling the motor/trans is not all that hard if you have a service CD and all the tools and a friend handy. PM Todras for a copy of the factory service CD. That thing is a godsend seriously. Its already saved my ass twice while I've been doing maintenance.
 
It is actually a diff problem, but I want to get a new trans put in. No reason to pay $600 for a new torsen when I could jus get a new/used trans for 800.
 
It is actually a diff problem, but I want to get a new trans put in. No reason to pay $600 for a new torsen when I could jus get a new/used trans for 800.

A torsen will fix a bunch of other problems inherent to the car that you may not even realize you have, lol.

Anyway, you can also try Liberty's Gears in Dearborn, MI, or try LivinSVT (a member here) to get your trans rebuilt for a reasonable price and both will consistantly do good work on a rebuild. And either will install a torsen for at the same time if that's what you want to do . . .
 
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