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Radiator Fan Removal Issues

Aussie Ford said:
We're glad you're making progress, but a lower rather than a higher t-stat might have been a better choice.... it would have opened a bit sooner there by running a bit cooler maybe at the m.. just thinking , but you probably had to go with what you could get at the time.

AF
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a lower t-stat doesnt make the car run any cooler, it just opens sooner so the coolant will circulate sooner helping to keep the engine cooler longer.

REPLACE THE TEMP SENDING UNIT. its notorious for them to read high on the zetecs.
 
If you have a Zetec 4 cylinder, don't worry about the gauge.

If you have a Duratec 6 cylinder, change out the water pump and thermostat.
 
That's true about the Z's that's why Ford just finally said as long as it wasn't in the red it was ok ... they couldn't get it to run in the middle either .... LOL
 
I may replace the sending unit soon, but it's at least partially correct because there are obvious signs of overheating when it in fact does move into the red.

I drove it home (11 miles) with NOOO coolant after the wreck.. wanna talk about OVERHEATING. xD
 
I am doing this today, and was thinking it could come out by removing motor mount frame bolts on bottom, jack engine way up to clear all the obstacles.
 
Can't come out the top, the fan shroud is too wide and the engine stops moving higher after jacking an inch. I did remove the front motor mount nuts.

Starting now to remove rad from bottom.
Shroud cant clear engine and car body.

There is no radiator drain, and it is these awful spring clamps, especially plan to replace lower spring clamp with the screw type I think.

Sring clamp kept popping off my large pliers, I was able to pry the lower hose off enough to start the coolant drain process without making a massive gush.
 
Total pain. The radiator hangs up on the AC condenser. I had to bend back the PS cooler.
It looks like rad does have a drain, next to the lower hose.
I am thinking to remove the passenger upper engine mount and maybe pry back engine to get more room. It was very tight getting it out, and it scratched up the AC condenser.

We have this occasional odd noise that sounds like when an electric motor bearing dries out. So I thought the fans were bad, but I powered them up and they sound ok. They could still be having a bearing issue, they run at full speed. I plan to totally remove the upper mount and replace the serpentine belt, check the pulleys, and on the driver side of motor, check water pump pulleys-idler.
Car is a 1998, so it does not have the plastic water pump.

I bought a new fan assembly.
 
Yeah found it. had to remove that to put the lower spring clamp back on.

Now the AC has leaked out after the repair.
3 things potential damage to cause leak,

lightly pried on the AC tubes by the drier to help get the rad hose clamp back on
hard scratched the condenser 6 inches long when pulling out radiator which was stuck, it scratched on power steering cooler
rubber hoses coming off condenser, outer rubber cover is cracking.

Out of these what is likely to be a leaker?

What size is the rubber o-ring to condenser?
I ordered a condenser from Rock Auto.
 
I know you stated it leaks out fast but you need dye in the system to pin it down or you will be chasing it .
Might worth it to bring to a shop just to diagnose it then you can fix it but once the system is open moisture gets in and that’s bad . The system needs to be vacuumed down and refilled .
 
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