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Problem after problem!!! what now

Chaoticdopey

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 10, 2012
Messages
84
ok well i still have my little oil leak, havent goten around to check the valve cover gasket, but now after driving alittle while after i shut the car off, if i come back to it like 10-30 minutes later it wont start, its strts for a split second then dies, if i give it gas it stays started but dies immediatly after i let go of the gas, i checked the emergency shut off ••••ch and its working correctly.. what could this be? when its running it runs great with full power. i just dont feel like being stranded. and when i run it while its haqving this problem the exaust smells funkier then normal, but when it starts correctly it smells normal.. no check engine light on.

Heres a video of the non-sense starting problem..

Click the picture to play it!!

 
If your car isn't staying running at all, I'd search for a vacuum leak. Check the IAC, and the IAC "elbow" hose near the firewall to make sure its connected.
 
no, if i try and start it and it does this, i will let it sit for awile and i can start it, and it will run normally and let me drive it anywere i want to go without stalling, but once i park it, this can and might happen again, so far its happend 2 times today, once 58 miles from home, and luckilly the next was about a quarter mile from home. no clue what is causing this. car runs fine when running.
 
So maybe a fuel pressure problem..?? that might explain why its hard to start..but once the fuel is going..it runs fine..? just my .02 cents.. I would check fuel pressure and eliminate that at least.
 
yes, once its started it runs fine. ill check the fuel pressure, but wouldent i not be able to keep the car running with my foot on the gas if it was a fuel pressure problem? and alittle side note, when i keep the gas floored and try to start it, it will start and rev up high untill i take my foot off the gas then die, isnt it not suppose to start at all? just turn over? isent flooring it suppose to turn off the injectors on a csvt? ive tried it once when i replaced the power steering pump and it just turned and turned untill i took my foot off the gas
 
^
Makes me think throttle position sensor. It could still be a vacuum leak though. You can dislodge the UIM/LIM gaskets by simply leaning on one end of the UIM. Considering you have probably been doing this trying to find the leak I would investigate this a bit as well.
 
UIM is nice and tight, TPS is fine, checked it with my laptop and its at 17% idle and goes to 95% - 100% at WOT, were is the fuel rail check valve? im thinking my fuel pump is dead, will only stay started if i hold the gas, and the exaust smells so bad when i have to hold the trottle open, but when it starts by itself it smells normal, also trying to start it now it wont at all now, it catches then dies.
 
Check valve is just below the throttle body. Can you hear the pump prime when you turn the key to the acc position? Also, what year are you working on?
 
Its on the fuel rail, looks like the thing you fill your tires up. Could also be a fpr.
 
ok well i left the key on the on position and then stuck a screw driver in the test valve and it let out a squirt but not a spray.
 
ok i checked the fuel pump relay and its fine, same old problem, heres a updated video

CLICK PICTURE TO WATCH VIDEO


 
I'm leaning towards the fuel pump. The pump only runs long enough to prime the rail, it doesn't run constantly until you start the car, so releasing the pressure at the rail doesn't tell us much. Your symptoms are very similar to what my car did when it's pump was dying. The fortunate thing is that your car should be a return fuel system which means you can pull the pump thru the back seat and not have to enlarge the hole, as the return style pump has a smaller sending unit. You should be able to get a new pump for $100 or less. Just to double check you should look at your fuel rail and see if it has 1 or 2 lines running to it. 1 line means you have a later returnless car, 2 lines means you have a return fuel system.
 
I'm leaning towards the fuel pump. The pump only runs long enough to prime the rail, it doesn't run constantly until you start the car, so releasing the pressure at the rail doesn't tell us much. Your symptoms are very similar to what my car did when it's pump was dying. The fortunate thing is that your car should be a return fuel system which means you can pull the pump thru the back seat and not have to enlarge the hole, as the return style pump has a smaller sending unit. You should be able to get a new pump for $100 or less. Just to double check you should look at your fuel rail and see if it has 1 or 2 lines running to it. 1 line means you have a later returnless car, 2 lines means you have a return fuel system.

all i see on the rail is the nain host and 1 little red hose, and yes when i removed the back seats to run my amp wires i could see the fuel pump wires. so you really think its the pump cause i know its not the spark.

and my other question is, if i go full throttle shouldnt the car just turn over and not even try to start? i tried it once wen doing the power steering pump and it worked, but not now??
 
Sounds like you have a returnless car. There should be a write up on the fuel pump replacement in the HowTo section. Your symptoms sound like the fuel pump, I'm not 100% though.

I noticed our CEL is on, have you had the code pulled?

Having the pedal at full throttle should keep the injectors from operating, that is very strange that it's not doing that. I have never heard of that happening before????
 
lol i just thought the cel light was on cause the car wasent started, but yes heres the fault.

what is that part and were is it located?

DSC05950.jpg
 
Idle Air Control, it's probably clogged or just not working at all. That could definitely keep the car from running. It's located on the driverside rear corner of the UIM, behind the EGR. Follow the biggest tube off of the intake tube towards the rear of the engine, it connects right by the IAC. If you look up the replacement part you will know what to look for.
 
can i just pull it off any contour with a 2.5l in it or cougar? i took the iac off and cleaned it which let it idle at 1200 for 3 secs then die, looks really dirty and stiff which i tried to move it

and thanks for all of your help this far into my problem.
 
As stated above, check the fuel pump itself and also the IAC (get another if you have to). Hetfield, a member here, mentioned he had a kinda similar problem. Where he'd drive his SF SVT for about 90 miles or so then the car would run so slow that it would die as it felt with no gas, only to just shut it off and then start it again in about 15 minutes. So, with that said, he found out his fuel pump was just on its way out and it would get hot that it would cause it to act and function like crap thus his lack of power on normal throttle. He replaced it and the car runs wonderful.

Something for you to check on...
 
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