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Please help!

First, dont be a boy racer. When you :censored::censored::censored::censored: up your car, you aint impressing anyone.

Second, what does the car do when you turn the key?

Third how hard do you have to YANK on the shifter to FORCE it into second from 3rd when you are going fast enough to redline the engine.

Fourth, you have now learned exactly how not to drive, hopefully you learn from it and it isnt too expensive.
 
sergiovbriones said:
First of all, I wasn't racing. I was just checking out how my car ran. The car tries to start, but the starter seems kind of heavy. I already put a new battery and starter. A mechanic said I had broken the timing belt chain. Another one said that the crankshaft had broken. Every mechanic that takes a guess wants 25 dollars. Any ideas, anyone?
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I didnt say you were racing, I said you were playing boy racer. Anyone who revs to the redline and then "power shifts"... yeah. You had to pull that shifter REALLY hard to get into second from 3rd at the redline.

So the car turns over? well, if you want to see the mechanics are idiots, turn the car over and watch the belts, that will show you that your crankshaft aint broken. Pull the valve covers off and look at the timing chains, if they are still there, then they are not broken.

What other sounds does it make when you try to start the car? Does the car move in and out of gear?
 
well, its REALLY hard to turn the crank while the engine is put together, thats why there is such a HUGE gear reduction from the starter motor to the crank via the flywheel or flexplate depending on your vehicle. If your friend cant turn the crank pully, then that just means he is not superman.

Does the engine turn over completely? Does it turn faster at times than others? Can you get the car in and out of gear? to test that put it in first and see if it is easy to push, then put it in neutral and see if it is easy to push. I dont just want to know if you can engage the gears or get the shifter moving btw, I want to know if shifting gears actually makes the transmission do something. Have you done a compression test also?
 
There are lots of things you could have broken. Floating the valves is a very strong possibility, which would likely lead to lots of piston and rod damage as well.
I would drain the oil, and look in it very closely for any metal shavings, or maybe even chunks. Then i would remove the oil pan and the windage tray and inspect as much of the bottom end as possible for any sign of damage.

The bottom line is, you aren't going to find out for sure what's broken until the cam covers and oil pan at a minimum are off. And almost no matter what is broken, it will probably be cheaper for you to replace the entire engine anyway.
 
Rara said:
There are lots of things you could have broken. Floating the valves is a very strong possibility, which would likely lead to lots of piston and rod damage as well.
I would drain the oil, and look in it very closely for any metal shavings, or maybe even chunks. Then i would remove the oil pan and the windage tray and inspect as much of the bottom end as possible for any sign of damage.

The bottom line is, you aren't going to find out for sure what's broken until the cam covers and oil pan at a minimum are off. And almost no matter what is broken, it will probably be cheaper for you to replace the entire engine anyway.
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Well, first off, Rara is right. You are gonna need to dig a little further into the engine to find whats wrong. If that mechanic told you he could fix it for $400 he probably doesnt even know what he is doing anyways, so I wouldnt bother bringing it to him. Especially if he just looked at it, said the crank was broken and said he could fix it for 400 bucks. I am willing to bet by the time he was done he would add an extra 0 to that bill.

If the transmission is still good, from the sounds of it, it would be cheaper to swap motors than rebuild what you have, but you can check out your motor anyways. Look in the duratec 3L section, its relatively cheap to swap in a 3L and its not to hard to do an engine swap compared to an engine rebuild.

Where are you from? Maybe there is someone close to you who can help you out a little or look at it for you. Some of us work for beer. Or if nothing else, you can just cut your losses and sell it to a local CEGer who will fix it up right. Anything to save an SVT from a salvage yard.
 
start reading in the 3.0L thread. It doesnt take much. For the most part they are a direct swap except for a few little things to change, plus you can get a low milage 3.0 for around 400 or 500 bucks. from there, the swap isnt very expensive depending on what route you go, definately cheaper than replacing your SVT motor. If I had known about 3 liter swaps 3 years ago, I would have done it, cause it seems to me that swapping in a 3 liter would have been not to far off from the cost of swapping in a new motor in mine when it blew. (I had oiling issues, not just :censored::censored::censored::censored:ing around trying to show off for someone or see how much over the speed limit I can go)

Does it make a big difference in speed? Well, you will still be able to drive the speed limit if thats what you are asking. You'll have a bit more power though.
 
you broke it.... My buddy did the same thing in his stealth a while back sheered the gears for the timing chain not cool. you probobly bent a few valves and other stuff, basically you now need either a new engine or you are going to have to rebuild it. I know our engines are rev happy but they do not like turning 12 grand against their will. you're actually lucky you didnt send a rod through the block I bet you have broken pistons too.
 
Yeah, it sounds like you did major damage to the internals. I could only imagine the noise your motor made screaming at 12k rpm before just stopping...look into a 3L, i've just about got mine finished. it really isnt a alot of work for the power you gain if thats what you are asking. and before you go around dumping the cluch everywhere with your new 3L, the extra 60 so lb/ft will pop your diff if you keep driving that way. If you are going to do the 3L, you might as well upgrade your transmission. :) better safe than sorry.
 
drain the oil and take off the oil pan someone already said it ...but fromt he sound of what happen

3L time:drool::drool::drool::drool:better time to do so, dont waste money an a 2.5 when it cheaper to go to a 3L
 
I'd scrap it and buy an automatic. Can't imagine how anyone could accidentally shift into 2nd at that speed.
 
I knew someone that was driving a truck they were unfamiliar with and at highway speeds they put it in 4X4 low, a couple grand later and a new engine. I hope this is not your case but if it is, 3L are cheap.
 
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