fordman302
Hard-core CEG'er
Awesome cant wait for this install..its only my 3rd ALT install and they go pretty easy not to hard..
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Ok im tired of this battery light need some intense help here..
- Thread starter fordman302
- Start date
twocontours
CEG'er
Thats because its life got taken real early.:crazy: . So we just recommend sticking with what works. Ford/motorcraft parts.
Now for the light kicking in, well Its just letting you know that it can not keep up with the amperage needed from 4250+ rpms. Resulting in the battery to feed the remaining energy.
In return, making the battery light scream help i am dieing. When in all honesty it isn't its just getting drained real fast which kinda scares him lol.
Everything should work fine when bags alternator reaches you:laugh:
No way any amount of ignition activity even 6000 RPM is going to tax a 130 AMP Alternator. The fuse isn't even close to that and the wires wouldn't handle the current.
No way any amount of ignition activity even 6000 RPM is going to tax a 130 AMP Alternator. The fuse isn't even close to that and the wires wouldn't handle the current.
ignition is not the only thing the alternator is providing energy too. Also if you have a bad alternator who says it is even reaching 130amps?
twocontours
CEG'er
ignition is not the only thing the alternator is providing energy too. Also if you have a bad alternator who says it is even reaching 130amps?
The ignition is about the only current draw that varies with RPM. If the slightly higher ignition draw cannot be supplied by the ALT then it's bad which was my original post. You should not accept a BAT light coming on as normal and explain that it's caused by the high current required to turn 4500 RPM!
jmcgee2000svt
CEG'er
Our cougar did that too under a heavy load, especially high RPM's/acceleration, we have since changed our alternator for a 2nd time and put new belt on it and it has been fine.
rk2k2
CEG'er
I think it's going to turn out to be your alternator. I highly doubt it's due to the additional current required over 4500 RPM, it's most likely that the alternator performance is degrading there. Quick test is turn your headlights on (or other high current draw accessory) at just below the point you're observing the failure.
It's the cheap regulators these rebuilders use. They try and save a buck by using inferior regulators. I bet the regulator is passing a bunch of ripple on the output, hence it becomes out of spec. This is why it is suggested to use the Ford product, and not aftermarket! Put a scope on it, I bet it becomes very dirty!
The input current to ignition is not even close to what a 130 amp alternator can throw out. Heck if it were then these cars would not be able to run on battery for a long time after the alternators are dead! Not only that the feed wire to the coil packs would be pretty heavy. The coil packs get kicked off by the ECU,of which is not a huge amplifier.
The input current to ignition is not even close to what a 130 amp alternator can throw out. Heck if it were then these cars would not be able to run on battery for a long time after the alternators are dead! Not only that the feed wire to the coil packs would be pretty heavy. The coil packs get kicked off by the ECU,of which is not a huge amplifier.
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