No Power to Camshaft Sensor HELP

[99_contour_svtt]

I am getting a P340. I have replaced this camshaft sensor twice. I am trying to trace it back to the fuse panel. I am getting no power to the sensor. This harness is a little frayed.

Which fuse supplies power to the camshaft sensor? Is in under the dash or engine compartment?

 

[crewchiefpro]

It is controlled via the ECM, no fuse to it that I know of. Get a wiring diagram and trace it, not that difficult to do. If the wires are bad replace them.

 

[aboythatskates]

im pretty sure the the cam sensor is just like an abs sensor. so when the teeth go by the sensor it creates AC current, and the ECU reads off that. so you probably have an open or short to the ecu

 

[svttour]

you need to replace that harness asap... pm me

 

[2000ZxT]

when the teeth go by the sensor it creates AC current, and the ECU reads off that. so you probably have an open or short to the ecu

This. Both CPS AND CKP work the same way on this car but the CPS is looking for a single pulse and the crank is 36-1 missing tooth. When the tooth goes by the magnetic force creates ac voltage. The faster the wheel spins the more voltage it creates. The ecu simply monitors this voltage to determine tdc of the engine. You're wiring is faulty.

 

[Devin]

Good Luck, this CEL was the death of my cougar.

 

[svttour]

Devin I think your issue and his are 2 different

 

[99_contour_svtt]

I have checked the wiring using a toner. It toned out fine through the brn/wht and the wht/purple wire.

I did notice that this ECM had been reflashed there is a tag on the hood that says PCM Reflash XS2F RD

This computer I just took out says XS2F-12650-RC. I was trying to figure if it came out of this car.* Called 2 different Ford's they informed me this is the correct ECM/ECU or part.

I will hook everything back up and check with the sensor hooked.

 

[aboythatskates]

probably faultly sensor then. ohm it, and then ohm it when you put it close to metal and just back and forth. it should create ac current

its nice to use a scope instead of a multimeter, because you can see the signal is very very fast situations such as this. and it will graph it. multimeter might not have fast enough refresh rate

 

[99_contour_svtt]

Well the resistance on the old sensor was fluctuating from 657-350 range that testing the ohm. The new one I think it was steady at either 257 or 357. I put it in changed the splice wiring. Now I don't have any codes. I'm going to wait a few days then re-smog it.

 

[amc49]

Steadier is better. You can test actual output using an ANALOG meter instead of digital and simply crank the engine-the output bumps show in regular needle jumps easily. Why I don't toss that 40 year old VOM.