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No Clutch Resistance/Pressure after bleeding

Pull the driver's side strut/spring/knuckle assembly out of the way, and remove the axle.

Remove both front and rear trans mounts.

Support the engine and remove the top trans mount.

Take the steering linkage loose at the floorboard.

Support the radiator with pins through the top studs at the rad support.

Remove the two driver's-side bolts that hold the subframe in place.

Loosen the two passenger's side bolts and let the subframe droop.

You now have plenty of room to access all of the trans bolts and get the transaxle out and back in again.

EDIT: if you remove the cradle entirely, you have to deal with taking power steering lines and AC components loose. If you just leave the subframe hanging there, you can forget all that.
 
TRicker swapped mine out in about 10 hours, give or take, via the way described by Bennet. If you know what you are doing....if the subframe bolt welds snap, you can access them by moving the carpet in the front seats and cutting where the slots are.
 
svtfixer said:
theres about..37 details left out.

time wise? i think its like 10-12 hours. so its more like 2 days.
Click to expand...

37 details left out of B3NN3TT's procedure?


elraido said:
TRicker swapped mine out in about 10 hours, give or take, via the way described by Bennet. If you know what you are doing....if the subframe bolt welds snap, you can access them by moving the carpet in the front seats and cutting where the slots are.
Click to expand...

Alright, thanks for that.

I just ditched my other mechanic..(or he ditched me?) he said he needed time off
from large jobs, so he gave me my money back and went on his way.

But I found another mechanic to do it for 350$, and he's coming with
an assistant to help get the job done in one day.
 
It can be a little bit of a tight fit to work it out of the wheel well, but I think it is a lot easier and quicker than pulling the whole motor.
 
UPDATE: So the two mechanics came over, and they put the new clutch in...it took about 10 hours.
from 11am-8pm....And needless to say, my problem is still not solved. One thing that perplexed me was the clutch they took out, the pressure plate and flywheel still looked fairly new, the only thing that looked old was the slave, and the seal was broken on it.

But after putting the new clutch in and trying too bleed, the pedal STILL will not gain pressure.
So now they are thinking the Clutch Master Cylinder is the problem?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/1998-Ford-Contour/_/N-j9susZ6o23x?itemIdentifier=541721_0_0_

So now I'm feeling like Ive bought this car for $1'000, have put $600 in it...($600 needlees dollars, because each repair ended up being and extremely simple fix) and I'm feeling about ready
to cut ties with it...the repairs are about to outcost the car.
 
I just replaced the master cylinder though.
I replaced the master like 2 weeks before replacing the
clutch because I thought that was the problem.
 
I'm going to buy the Clutch Master Cylinder, and hope that does it.
I started hearing this sound of air escaping when i press on the clutch pedal.
It sounds like the noise you hear when you squeeze a ketchup bottle with no ketchup in it.
Soo im guessing that's what's not holding any pressure?
 
So the clutch master came in the mail today and I'm currently in the process of installing it..
But ive ran into a problem trying to get out, I finally managed to get everything disconnected and the bolts holding it
in place off (which was NOT easy) but now there is this bracket stopping it from coming on out...
I just want to see if you guys have had any experience with this because the repair manual doesn't mention having to disassemble the bracket
IMG_3820_zps2ae67ac7.jpg

IMG_3821_zpsfa28ca76.jpg

IMG_3822_zpsd06d750e.jpg


the master is missing the scrunchy thing at the end because that is the part that broke off, and i probably could've saved 600$
just by replacing this first...:shrug: but oh well...

I'm also having a starting issue since having the clutch replaced...when putting the key in and trying to start it, it makes no noise, nothing , not even likes it turning over...its as if im not pressing in the clutch to start it.
I've tried taking out the ignition fuse, and memory fuse to no avail.
I also noticed I blew a PCM fuse so I replaced it with a new one, that just blew too.
Dude at AutoZone said I might have a short somewhere...Could that cause the car
not to turn on though?
I also want to add that when the key is in the ignition, and when I switch it on the reverse lights come on??
 
I ended up just bending that metal piece out of the way and taking the master out...
I also put the new one in..bled it...and SUCCESS! I finally have my clutch back!
But now a host of other problems from changing the clutch...FAIL
Like for instance, still not being able to start the car -___-
it was working before the clutch job, now it wont crank, click, or anything...
I tried to look at all the electrical coming off the battery and everything seems to be in place,
someone on youtube suggested the clutch safety switch?
 
jrichardson said:
I would say the safety switch because you just got done messing around in that area.
Click to expand...

I actually t forgot I had unplugged the safety switch so I could get to the bolt above it.
But even after plugging it back in, it's still the same starting issue..
So I checked all of my fuses, and noticed i had 2 blown, so i changed those
out, and now my dash lights are back, including the PATS light.
Which I now notice blinks rapidly when trying to turn the car on...
I believe it has something to do with the pcm, because the 1 of the 2 PCM fuses blows out each time i try to start the car.
 
jrichardson said:
If your refering to my post then you are wrong in the location of the clog. Mine clogged and I could still use my clutch. Just after the disk started the wear the pedal got lower and lower.
Click to expand...

any why does it get lower and lower? because its slowly not releasing the slave cylinder, which over time could be not letting the clutch disengage, if the clog got worse. if it wasnt bad, then it would just stay against the pressure plate forks and just constantly wear on them
 
Check the speed sensor wiring. This is what caused our PCM fuse to blow every time we put one in. Only way we found it was a self resetting relay and watched for smoke ( not for the faint at heart on this, don't do it without 2 to 3 people helping and a fire extinguisher ).



KOALA said:
I actually t forgot I had unplugged the safety switch so I could get to the bolt above it.
But even after plugging it back in, it's still the same starting issue..
So I checked all of my fuses, and noticed i had 2 blown, so i changed those
out, and now my dash lights are back, including the PATS light.
Which I now notice blinks rapidly when trying to turn the car on...
I believe it has something to do with the pcm, because the 1 of the 2 PCM fuses blows out each time i try to start the car.
Click to expand...
 
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