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newly installed 3L won't start

2

2kSVT

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 8, 2003
Messages
324
Location
Dayton,Oh.
I'm posting for Sprayed. He just installed an 03' Taurus 3L with like 30,000 miles in his 98 SVT. He used his SVT cams etc. in the install. I was not part of the install, nor did I view the problem. He said it has fuel, but is not sparking. It turns over and over, but no start.
Mine did this after the turbo install (2.5) and it was the crank sensor. He said he used the ones from the SVT. His cam chain was the reason to go with the 3L, once he tore the 2.5 apart he said what the heck.

I'll get more info. but any suggestions to troubleshoot the no start problem.



Rod
 
It won't be pulse wheel if the plugs are not getting spark.

Grounds are good? (specifically the coil pack ground)


On a side note; I hope he bought new 2.5 liter chains if the old ones were the cause for the tear down (you cant use 3 liter chains with 2.5 liter cams.
 
He said he has checked the plug wire routing several times. He is going to check the coil pack ground again. Excuse my ignorance, but could you further describe the pulse wheel? Where/what is it? Which way is it supposed to be for the 3l with SVT bits install?

Thanks for the replies

Rod
 
diagram of the way it is supposed to go for the 2.5 and the 3.0 so i dont mix them up please... i have spark and fuel now, but no start...like it doesnt want to try
 
If you are using the 2.5L timing components, then yes it should be aligned in the notch opposite the key way.

Easiest thing to do is, as soon as you remove the timing cover from the 3L, turn the pulse wheel to the other notch. Don't move it after that. This way you won't get it mixed up!

Hopefully it's not the p wheel :cry:
 
How long has the car been down? After both of my 3L builds (each took months to complete) I had to crank it awhile before it fired. After that each start has been nearly instant.
 
i would say it has been down for a month!!!! so for the 2.5 do i change it by the notch or what??? i need to see 2.5 pics and 3l pics so i no its on the right way
 
If you even have to ask which way the pulse wheel is supposed to be in it is probably too late. There is a 25% chance you got it right. Good luck :crazy:.....
 
What 3L motor did you swap in? If you swapped in a 3L from an Escape and you didn't remove the pulse wheel it would be on correctly.

If you swapped in a 3L motor from a Taurus/Sable then you need to rotate the pulse wheel to the other keyway notch. If this isn't rotated the car won't start. Usually the "25..." numbering should be near the notch you want to use but there are a few that are stamped incorrectly. The best way is to note the missing teeth on the wheel in relation to the keyway. You want your pulse wheel to be on the keyway notch furthest from the missing tooth on the pulse wheel. You can verify if it's on correctly by removing the crank pulley and looking through the timing cover at the pulse wheel. Look at which notch is being used and compare it to the picture on the other page.

You can fix this while the motor is in the car but it really sucks to do. You need to remove the timing cover which requires you to remove a lot of other parts. Probably a 6hr+ job.
 
no, sinde i have had it apart once out of the car while swapping cams, etc. and twice in the car, now 3 times its not so much of a pain in the ass, and deff. not 6hrs. but it is pretty obvious that i have it on the completely wrong way, so when i get some free time the sprayed duratec 3l will come back to life, thanks for the help
 
While it seems like a long time 6hrs is pretty accurate. It's almost worth pulling the motor and reinstalling it.

You need to pull: intake tube, engine cover, disconnect throttle/cruise cables, pull upper intake, IMRC, plug wires, coil pack, injector harness bracket, main harness bracket, breather lines, valve covers, coolant tank, engine mount, powersteering tank, powersteering lines, powersteering pump, passenger wheel, spash gaurds, crank pulley, tie rod end, alternator wiring, alternator, alternator bracket, cam/crank sensor wiring, and finally timing cover.

For reinstall you need to reinstall everything including reseating the gaskets in the valve covers and timing cover, dabing on gasket maker, and torqing everything to the correct specs.

No matter who you are or what tools you use that is a lot of work. Good luck with the fix hopefully it's up and running soon!
 
^^^^this may be tru, however i just spent 2 hrs pulling all apart, now the first time i pulled the 2.5 apart i spent much more time, but upper intake takes ten min. at most, and front valve cover is about 5 minutes after that... after you have done it as many times as i have now it just kinda comes natural, however not something for noon mechanichally inclined people to try, and a special thannks to pudmonkey, great guy good seller, and that pic shows i had it on the wrong way
 
im confident with my lift and air tools. but there is no way in hell im putting it back together using an impact.....aside from the crank pulley bolt
 
Glad you got it figured out. People take for granted how much a little mistake can slow down a whole project.
 
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