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New 3.0 build ..Crank, No start

Beans said:
No I do not, all i have is this:
1018081355.jpg


Fritze is going to be at work man.
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Yeah go ahead and pull it back out your pulse wheel is on wrong.
 
Beans if you dont want to take the motor out which you dont have to. Just to this:

Drain oil into a clean container
Remove intake piping and UIM
Remove valve covers
Remove both front and rear roll resistors
Remove Belt
Remove Alt and bracket
Install Front and rear roll resistors
Remove A/C compressor
Remove all hoses to the P/S pump
Place jack under oil pan with a block of wood
Remove "Z" passenger side motor mount. Remove P/S pump
Remove timing cover
Swap the pulse wheel
and reinstall everything in the same order going in reverse.

I say to remove the front and rear roll resistors becuase this will let you rock the engine in the cradle to get to the alt bracket easier.

Then you should install the front and rear roll resistors because you dont want you engine being held by 1 motor mount. The jack is just there for saftey reasons and should not be the #1 factor in holding your engine up.
 
if it is attempting to start without carb cleaner then its not the pulse wheel. it will not fire at all if its wrong. do not pull it! beans does it sound like the one i had at work? back firing and barely staying running? if so feel the cats and res. after trying to start for a few mins. if they are really hot they are clogged. all were clogged and it did the same for me. that car sat for a long time before you got it and while you had it. im busy until saturday. meet me at work, check stuff out and get it running. it sounds just like the one i finished at work for my boss. if it jumped timing it will sound like really bad lifter tick if it jumped timing like a tooth or so. if it did more than that a simple compression test will confirm if the valves hit the piston or not. ive got one at work, you can use it if you want. test it before ripping everything apart again.
 
He showed us a picture of the pulse wheel installed wrong, he has to pull it :shrug:!
 
shavedsvt said:
if it is attempting to start without carb cleaner then its not the pulse wheel. it will not fire at all if its wrong. do not pull it! beans does it sound like the one i had at work? back firing and barely staying running? if so feel the cats and res. after trying to start for a few mins. if they are really hot they are clogged. all were clogged and it did the same for me. that car sat for a long time before you got it and while you had it. im busy until saturday. meet me at work, check stuff out and get it running. it sounds just like the one i finished at work for my boss. if it jumped timing it will sound like really bad lifter tick if it jumped timing like a tooth or so. if it did more than that a simple compression test will confirm if the valves hit the piston or not. ive got one at work, you can use it if you want. test it before ripping everything apart again.
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He doesnt have any cats, he has headers.
I told him to do a compression test, but I dunno if he got the tool.
 
starjammir said:
He has SVT cams in the car, so shouldnt it be the way it is?
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WTH are you talking about?! What do cams have to do with anything? Needs to be in the 25 notch just like on all Contour swaps. You use the 2.5 cover so you use the 2.5 pulse notch. Never ever points to the 30. :troutslap:
 
Sorry I struck a nerve Todd. Take a chill pill, not all of us can know so much about these cars like you. I thought if you do a straight swap into the car, using the 3L cover, you leave it on the 3L mark. Guess Im wrong.
EDIT: I see it now, ya it is wrong. I just looked at it three times and see that it is on wrong. Thanks for the info Toddles
 
Since it cranks. Try spraying some fuel in through the intake. I forgot what that stuff is called. See if it cranks then its something with the fuel. If not then spark??

- amyn
 
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