Need help, Zetec Problem

[Frosty]

Well, as my sig says, it's a 99 Zetec ATX. I was driving to work this morning and while applying the brakes approaching a stop sign, it just dies without warning. It hasn't restarted since then. It will turn over and almost starts, but just won't. It appears as though I have gas, compression, and spark. I thought it might be the fuel pump at first because I couldn't get it to fire, but while it's turning over and it sounds like it might start, I hit the gas and it nearly fires, but doesn't. I'm still searching thru the old forums, but does anybody have any advice before I head back to the car?? Any help will be appreciated.

Maintenence: The plugs and wires were done about 24K ago. I used autolite double plats and Ford Racing 9mm plug wires. The air filter was cleaned last month (K&N Drop-In). The oil is due for a change here shortly.

Thanks
Kyle
Frosty

 

[Tony2005]

Scan and post CEL(s) even if the light is not on. If no CELs, check/clean/change Idle Air Control valve. Try pushing gas pedal all the way down and crank. That will close the injectors and sometimes, will help it start (if flooded).

Edit. IAC cleaning
Zetec IAC location.

For the Zetec I-4, you need to access the IAC from the bottom of the car.

IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

Location of the IAC for the Zetec.

"It's on the back side of the intake plenum under the throttle body area." DESIGN.

I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it .

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

 

[Frosty]

Thanks for the advice Tony! I went back out there and brought my dad along. It turned a few times and wouldn't start, but then something funny happened. There was a small "pop" and now the starter makes noise and the crank turns, but it doesn't even think about firing. We confirmed there is spark and there is fuel pressure. I will have him look into the things you had listed above. Let me know if you can think of anything else. I thought it might be an issue with the timing belt, but it would have sputtered before dying wouldn't it? I'm a little confused as to what is going on here, but will continue to troubleshoot. I have to be into work at 11 ( I ended up taking a half a day personal time), but my dad will be on it and I will continue to check in this thread while at work. Thanks again for the help!

Kyle
Frosty

 

[Tony2005]

... There was a small "pop" and now the starter makes noise and the crank turns, but it doesn't even think about firing. We confirmed there is spark and there is fuel pressure. ...

I wonder if the starter solenoid is broken. I had car (not Ford) once which died when I came to a stop sign and wouldn't start either. Would crank but not start. Sent it in and it was diagnosed as a starter solenoid. I wonder how one would go about testing the solenoid without taking it out of the bottom of the engine.

Edit. We could use the Autozone link. It would be a pain having to do this under the car.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1b/c3/4b/0900823d801bc34b.jsp

 

[Frosty]

Thanks for the quick reply!! Here's my thoughts: If the solenoid were broken would it still be turning the crankshaft? When I try to start it, it still spins, but doesn't even think about firing, but there is spark. I wonder if it's the timing belt only because if the intake and exhaust weren't opening, that may have created this situation possibly? I'll talk it over with my dad anyways though. Thanks again!

Kyle
Frosty