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Need help with fuel rail

M

m1a rocks

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
75
Location
Howell, MI
I am working on a project. I've got a 96' SE, mtx and am putting a 3.0L in it. I am also putting an SVT upper, lower intake and throttle body.
My svt parts are from an early 98. Build date is 05/97.
What kind of fuel rail does it have? I thought returnless type didn't come out till 99'. I have been told that this is a returnless. I assume i need the return style. I really want to use the svt parts. Please check out the pics and tell me what I've got. Thanks, Brian....
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Thanks Big Jim. I assume that is what I will find on my 96' when I get to tearing it down. I haven't gotten into it yet. I actually have a 98' svt for parts that I'm trying to get into my garage right now to tear down. I am also going to use the flywheel and exhaust as well.
I really expected to get a lot more response to my question. Kinda surprised......... Thanks again, Brian...
 
Thanks Jim. Good point. By looking at your post count, I can tell you've been around here a while. You must know what you're talking about.
I had a "kid" looking at my parts and he was "sure" my parts were returnless. Heck, he even was saying if it was return type it would have "this and that". I really thought he knew what he was talking about. Guess not.
Because of that, I was kinda hoping for a few "yea thats return type" for sure responses. I'm kinda old school, V-8's and carburators.
I'm not new to contours but this is my first build. My son thinks I'm a nut. I know this will never beat the Mustang we built, but it will make a fun Sunday driver.
Thanks again for setting me straight on it, Brian..........
 
A returnless style rail will only have one line going into it.

From your pictures you can see that the fuel rail has two possible connections on it. One to deliver the fuel from the tank and the other to return extra fuel back to the tank.
 
I have actually been thinking of going straight 3.0L.(2004 Taurus engine 19k miles) Only problem is I am not sure what to do about hte fuel rail. The 3.0 has returnless and my 96' has return style. Also, with the current ecu, how would that run before i eventually get it tuned?
My original thinking was to port match the svt intake to the 3.0L. I thought that once I got it running I would look into putting the ecu from the svt into it. The pats would give me a little trouble but I have a donor svt for this. I could put the (at least most or some of) the wiring into my 96 so it could read the key chip. Heck I could even just put the key into the ignition from the svt and stash it up under the dash .
Any input or comments are very welcome!
I thought that selling the svt heads and cams would net me a little bit of money. I'm not certain but I think my svt motor was still in good running condition when the car was totaled out.
I am actually tearing down the car right now. I'm getting about 1 or 2 hours a day to work on it currently. Just started taking it apart 2 days ago. Brian..............................
 
Link: NPG Fuel rail mod

This lets you use a return-style fuel rail with your returnless fuel system. The stock Taurus fuel rail can be flipped backwards, but it's a bit awkward. If you're lucky enough to find an '02 Escape fuel rail, like I did, it fits perfectly. The 2004-2005 3.0 engines have plenty of power across the RPM range - definitely consider doing one. I paid way too much for my engine ($500), but completely made up for it by selling my SVT UIM, LIM, IMRC, throttle body, intake tube, fuel rail, etc. People will pay a lot of money for those items (advertise here and at the Cougar forums - those guys love SVT parts).

If you stick with your stock 17# injectors, the car should run okay, not optimally. But keep in mind that your stock injectors were designed to spray into one port of a lower intake manifold with dual ports - putting them in a LIM with single oval ports means the injector is spraying some fuel on the wall, which isn't optimal. Also, consider that full '04-'05 3.0s regularly see over 200hp at the wheels (~230 at the crank), your stock 17# injectors really aren't enough to safely support that power level. So the stock 3.0 (24#) injectors really are a better option - they have the correct spray pattern and you're not going to exceed their duty cycle under naturally aspirated conditions. It just means that you'll need to get it tuned sooner rather than later.

NPG can help you out there again (Link: NPG tuning). Send them info on your engine, intake, exhaust, injectors, etc. and they'll send you a custom-made tune that's usually pretty good. If you decide how you're building it now, you could have the tune by the time you're ready to run the car, so you don't have to run untuned at all.

Hope this helps.
 
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