• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

My satin black portmatched swap build.

solo92s10

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Aug 29, 2009
Messages
1,454
Location
Elizabethtown, PA
Never really intended on doing a 3l swap but the csvt is gonna need a new clutch soon. So I decided while the trannys out ill pull the motor and paint the inner fenders since they are all that is not satin black. Then I got to thinking while the engine is out why not just throw in a 3l. More so just to say i did than for the extra 20 or so HP.
My plans.
Bugzuki plates(already ordered)
Mustang 65mm throttle body(already ordered)
Svt cams and timing components.
Gut precats with mileliminators(already have)
Optimize ypipe (already have one done but may do the one on my csvt now to do a better job)
Bit to do the porting is ordered also. This One
Stock svt replacement clutch.
Resurface flywheel if needed

Sourced a 04 sable from local lkq 68k miles for $460. Seems high so i may have them check prices on 01-02. I have $400 saved up. Wife wont let me take money from our accounts so been saving money from side work for a few weeks. So gonna order the engine next week some time.

Looking to get the engine as soon as possible then take my time putting it together and cleaning it up and painting it. Not doing the swap till december some time after i get laid off for the season since i need the tour for the good gas mileage.

Any input appreciated. Especially if you think i should be able to or know of somewhere to get a motor cheaper. Also will have a low mileage (under 40k) 2.5l shortblock and heads(minus cams) for sale after this swap. If you might be looking in the future let me know. Also can assist or do the swap for you if your local.
 
It won't be low mileage if you are trying to get it cheaper than $400. Sure there are some crazy deals out there but I buy 3L's from all over the US and prices on low mileage motors is more like $500 if you find a good deal. Then you have to pay shipping as well if it isn't local which can be a few hundred. If it is local they usually charge you a core fee which can be ridiculously expensive at some places. Without having a 3L to bring in as core you'd have to eat that. Some might take a 2.5L though. I'm sure a lot of places lie about the mileage on the motors anyway because it is going to be difficult to prove them wrong.

I'd say stick with the 2.5L if it's in that good of shape and you only have $400 max to spend.

BTW a stock SVT dynos at 165whp and a 3L SVT dynos at around 190-210whp. That is a HUGE jump in this platform.
 
Got the bugzuki plates today. Got excited and called lkq about the motor, Having never thought about a core charge i was pretty bummed when they said it would be another $275 for a core. So now i guess im gonna search craigslist for a blown motor for a core or even a good deal for a good 3l. If anyone finds anything in the tristate area let me know.
 
I have gotten the vin # of the cars my 3L motors were pulled from. You can then look up the vin on carfax and will be able to tell right away what kind of mileage is on that motor. Unless they lie about the cars vin # that they pulled the motor from :blackeye:.


Sometimes the carfax will even tell you where the damage on the car was if your motor came from a totalled vehicle. "accident rearended" "side impact total loss" etc...
 
Ok From bummed to excited. Just found THIS Called and its on hold for me to pick up next week. Gave it to me for $400 taxes included. If i had a lil patience to save up a little more i could have a 12k mile motor for $600. But 80K for $400 ill take it. So now i just have to hope to get off early enought to pick it up next week. Thanks for the idea fuz ill have to do that.
 
Yeah, print the carfax for that car and keep it with the motor paperwork that stays with the contour. It's good to have that info for re-sale if needed. ;).

So 80k motor $400+ shipping, but you could get a 12k for $600? I would call them and ask if they could do any better on the price (even $50) and I would take the 12k motor if you plan to keep the car.

Look at it this way, would you pay $200 to have 60k miles taken off your cars engine that you drive right now? I would, if you know where that motor has been.....
 
I know what your getting at but I really dont intend on keeping the car long and I also really dont mind the miles, I wouldnt want to go any higher but the block and heads should be good for 100k more miles. And im picking the motor up so it $400 out the door. And even if i keep the car for 10 years still feel comfortable with the 80k mile motor.
 
Some pics of the parts ive accumulated over the past week or two.

First the Clutch kit. It was on sale on amazon for $160 shipped. I really wanted a luk but for the $50 savings I went with the exedy. And as you can see in the pics i am very happy i went that route.

2011-09-17_14-52-19_515..jpg

2011-09-17_14-53-13_496..jpg

2011-09-17_14-54-00_594..jpg
Something ground away on slave/tob



Now the engine- will have better pics soon. Gotta get it on the stand tonight hopefully.

2011-09-17_14-54-55_741..jpg

2011-09-17_14-55-03_579..jpg
 
Porting plates and bit-

2011-09-17_14-51-51_474..jpg

And the rest- Mustang 65mm throttle body, energy suspension front rr instert- and the others already mentioned.

2011-09-17_14-51-38_41..jpg

Can anyone confirm that this is a luk clutch? I mean it says so but could they be using some of their parts along with some luk parts? Heres a better pic of the whole clutch disc.

2011-09-17_14-53-29_276..jpg

Off the top of my head all i want to order yet is the poly to fill my rear roll restricter. Im also gonna replace the water pump on the 3l before the install.
 
That looks like a LUK friction disk, it's double sprung unless the picture is deceptive. Without a better view of the front of the pressure plate we can't tell on that though.

Post a closer picture of the TB, it looks like it's correct, but I'm not sure.
 
I know what your getting at but I really dont intend on keeping the car long and I also really dont mind the miles,

Really, and you are pouring this much money into a car you are not going to keep? No wonder your wife locked up the bank accounts!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Really, not expensive to swap in the 3L. WIth new clutch and everything i have maybe $700 in to parts, hoping to get back $50 for my svt optimized throttle body and $400 for my low mileage svt block and heads. Grand total $250 ballpark. Not to mention when i do sell i can make that plus some back. Example- had car sold for $3300 after a day of advertiseing a few months ago but i backed out pretty sure with the swap i can get $4k pretty qwick. Also just doing the swap because i can. Dont need and will rarely use the extra hp. Just saw an opurtunity to do something fun and clean up the engine bay in the process. And she doesnt have the accounts on lock down i do all the bills, out of respect i ask before i spend money on my TOYS and usually listen.

And yeah after looking at more pics Ive come to the conclusion that the clutch is luk. So if someones in the market $160 is a steal. just make sure you get the one that has the tob with it, the kit without is $167 ha.
 
Been a while since an update.
Got the heads all ported and the engine all cleaned up. Gonna paint the blocks and heads this weekend. Probably will be laid off next week for the winter. So gonna start the swap then. All i need yet is the 80a poly to fill the rear roll restrictor. Will get some pics up as soon as the block is painted.
 
I know it doesn't help now but for others that are reading the bit posted isn't a aluminum cutting bit so it can be more prone to clogging up. If you pick up a aluminum cutting bit it will really speed up porting.
 
Just an update on current progress since I now have the old engine out and starting to swap the parts over.
Progress so far
65mm throttle body modified to work with 3l
flywheel resurfaced
timing cover and valve covers preped for paint(painting tomorrow night)
Inner fenders stripped down, getting prepped for paint tonight with paint tomorrow night.
front and rear roll restricters are both tore down and ready to be filled.
New struts with intrax springs assembled. (should add another half inch of drop in the front over the eibachs)
And lots more cant really think of it now.

Only real hiccup sofar was the intrax springs i got were pre 98 so i had to track down some new pre98 struts. Thanks to 95_mystique for trading some parts. Also the replacement knuckle to replace the passenger side was for the drivers side so i need to get to the junk yard to get a pass side knuckle.

Heres a few misc. pics. More by the weekend with some fresh paint bling.

Kinda boring but empty engine bay with soon to be matching inner fenders.

Empty engine bay..jpg

And the blue 3l with first shot of blue(got 2 more right after but havent taken a pic). I know its loud, but ive had the can of paint for like 6years and have tried to use it on other peoples projects that have come through the shop but no one would so i decided to use it on the block since it will barely be seen.

Blue3l..jpg
 
A little progress this week so far.... Got both motors ready for the cam swap to the point of unbolting cam caps and removing timing components. Will be attacking that tomorrow. Also got the passenger inner fender completley prepped for paint. Things are moving along well gonna get my garage good and toasty friday night and do all my painting and fill my roll restricters.

One question thats on my mind... i plan to just use the 3.0 oil pan although i do not have a new gasket for it. It had NO leaks before just curious if I could just bolt the timing cover to the pan as is or is it really in my best interest to buy a new gasket?
 
ceg running again update.
Some progress on the swap. motor is almost ready to be put back in. Just need to reinstall on exhaust manifold and engine wireing harness and lim. Tranny was taken and cleaned needs wire wheeled yet and painted but am waiting for the engine to be done for that. On to pics that show the progress better than i can describe it.

DSC02163..JPG

DSC02165..JPG

DSC02161..JPG

DSC02166..JPG
 
Also got the inner fenders painted up and also started cleaning misc. things (brake booster/master, rad fan, etc) tonight that appear pretty bad in these pics taken before cleaning. The camera flash makes them appear very dusty. Really look killer in person. Great match to the exterior satin black paint.

DSC02167..JPG

DSC02168..JPG

And a pic of my new toy acquired durring site down time. Also got a nice little blast cabinet from tractor supply. Works great on smaller stuff that fits, considering its only $100.

Welder Hobart MVP210 dual voltage mig welder. This thing welds great. Had a snapon 230v industrial welder borrowed from a friend for over a year and this hobart welds so much better.

DSC02162..JPG
 
Ok I haven't read your whole thread yet so this may have been already answered..........why aren't you putting headers on?
 
Back
Top