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MTX shift better?

But I feel like the syncros are TOO fast?

You may not be aware, but for years (before Ford developed a completely different fluid), the "premium cure" was Mobil 1 ATF plus 2 oz of Ford Friction Modifier. It was referred to as the "Cocktail". It was part of the "How To" stuff on the old forums.

I really don't know how to thicken your existing fluid. If you want thicker fluid, you need to look at Royal Purple as others have said or Ford's new fluid.
 
When you say spinning too fast do you mean the revs are hanging or it feels different when the gears engage?
 
I had the same issue on my 2000 SVT, the shifts were too "tight" feeling, as if every shift was almost forced in. No grinds, but not buttery.

I had it drained and put in Amsoil ATF. Which is apparently not recommended now?? My transmission shifts immaculately, and its been over 4500 miles since the flush.
 
True.

Doesn't the friction modifier make it more slippery?

I remember these discussions from years ago...I believe the friction modifier will do what you need it to do...I thought it was called that because it increased the "friction" in the transmission...a more "slippery" fluid in the MTX-75 does not make it shift better contrary to some beliefs...but more to the point, follow Big Jim's recommendation ;)
 
I wish the old forums were still accessible...I used to think that's how the friction modifier worked, too until I read a pretty heated thread about it years ago...what I remember is that the MTX-75 did not need a more slippery fluid to work better, but that the synchros need some "friction" to shift properly...which is why folks were adding the modifier and to maintain proper viscosity...regardless, the stuff works :)
 
Friction modifier was a real mystery for me for a long time. I finally understand, and trust me, it makes the fluid more slippery.

The purpose of the friction modifier you buy separately is to fortify the differential lube when you have a clutch type LSD. The clutches stick if the fluid isn't slippery enough. When they stick the diff makes strange noises and a strange jerking sensation from the rear when turning, especially at slow speeds when the fluid is cold. A little friction modifier added to the diff fluid, and the clutches no longer stick.

One of the problems with shift quality of the MTX75 is the shift forks and how they slide on their rails. The fit is too tight, and when cold they bind and stick, making it very hard to shift into gear when cold. To a point, friction modifier helps to make this part smoother. Too cold and it still didn't solve the problem. Ford finally fixed that in either very late 99 or early 2000 with the introduction of the roller bearing shift fork.

Adding friction modifier to trans lube when the trans was balky has been a mechanics trick for decades. The old timers used it when they had to deal with a balky trans when nothing else worked.

And the synchros in our trans, like anyone elses, likes slippery fluids.

In early automatic transmissions, Ford type F fluid had no friction modifier, and it helped lock up the clutches quicker, but the shifts tended to be a bit harsh. General Motors fluid on the other hand (type A and later the variants of Dexron) used friction modifier to soften the clutch engagement. Chrysler ATF+3 and ATF+4 uses even more friction modifier.
 
ah yes, type F, the redneck shift kit

gotta love that stuff.

a friend of mine got more money for a 80's el camino with a bad tans at trade in because we put type f and lucas stop slip in it and told them it had a shift kit done.

take that janky buy-here pay-here lot!
 
Yes, my problem felt as if the gears were occasionally not syncronising. The shifter is like butter for the 1-2 3-4 shifts but that is ONLY if the gears mesh correctly.

I will try the modifier. Currently my MTX is filled with Mobile1 Synthetic Dex/Merc V I believe. +Modifier and hopefully I'll have a great shifting trans. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP EVERYONE
 
Ford parts isn't open on a saturday apparently.. :rolleyes:


So, I took a shortcut and tried a little 4 oz. bottle of Limited Slip Differential Friction Modifier by some company called Champion. Found it at O'Reily auto parts for 5 bucks.

Put it in and went for a drive in the country to warm up the oil and whatnot..

NOW 15 miles later.. Trans shifts perfectly. I was scared of putting in some random stuff but I suppose we'll see what happens down the road!! I'll update as time goes on, especially towards winter time.
 
Ford parts isn't open on a saturday apparently.. :rolleyes:


So, I took a shortcut and tried a little 4 oz. bottle of Limited Slip Differential Friction Modifier by some company called Champion. Found it at O'Reily auto parts for 5 bucks.

Put it in and went for a drive in the country to warm up the oil and whatnot..

NOW 15 miles later.. Trans shifts perfectly. I was scared of putting in some random stuff but I suppose we'll see what happens down the road!! I'll update as time goes on, especially towards winter time.

Thanks for the update, and DO keep us posted.
 
hey, thats pretty cool man. I'm guessing this is for a fwd auto limited slip? because ordinary gear oil ( for a rear end) seems to have a very different smell, and I'd think it wouldnt be compatible.

on a lark, does any body know if it is just transverse diffs that run on the tranny fluid? because my automatic awd bg5 subaru took separate front diff fluid that was a sort of gear oil, while the gear box itself took atf. is that strange? or is it only with fords that an auto only takes one fluid because they insist on using atf for everything?
 
Ha, no. It's prob most definitely for gear oil. I went ahead and did it out of desperation..

I tested a small sample of the atf fluid I put in and mixed some of the additive. It stirred up and hasn't separated yet. The smell was def like gear oil, I couldnt get it off my hands all day!

I now have close to 80 miles on this odd combo and it only has gotten better. So I guess time will tell
 
Ha, no. It's prob most definitely for gear oil. I went ahead and did it out of desperation..

I tested a small sample of the atf fluid I put in and mixed some of the additive. It stirred up and hasn't separated yet. The smell was def like gear oil, I couldnt get it off my hands all day!

I now have close to 80 miles on this odd combo and it only has gotten better. So I guess time will tell

Maybe I should have warned you that the alternate name for friction modifier is "stink". Handle it with care.
 
hey, thats pretty cool man. I'm guessing this is for a fwd auto limited slip? because ordinary gear oil ( for a rear end) seems to have a very different smell, and I'd think it wouldnt be compatible.

on a lark, does any body know if it is just transverse diffs that run on the tranny fluid? because my automatic awd bg5 subaru took separate front diff fluid that was a sort of gear oil, while the gear box itself took atf. is that strange? or is it only with fords that an auto only takes one fluid because they insist on using atf for everything?

The differential gears on most front wheel drive vehicles are not hypoid gears. Hypoid gears are needed for rear wheel drive. To minimize the driveshaft hump, the pinion gear is moved as close to the bottom of the ring gear as possible and the resulting gearing applies tremendous pressure on the gear faces. This extreme pressure would kill the gears (metal breakdown) very quickly if not for ep (extreme pressure) additives. The ep additives are somewhat related to friction modifiers.

Front wheel drive transaxles usually do not have hypoid gears. As a result, most do not need ep additives. The level of ep additives is part of what determines the difference between GL4 and GL5 specifications. Manual transmissions do not need ep additives, but they may need friction modifiers. Manual transmission fluids can be GL5, but they should be specifically blended for manual transmission use so that the entire additive package is appropriate. Something to be aware of is that older style GL5 additive packages may not be compatible with yellow metals (synchros). Only use GL5 in manual transmissions if the label says it is safe for such use.

ATF is a gear oil. It is made to lubricate the gears in an automatic transmission. It is specified for use in many manual transmissions. There will always be a debate as to if it really should be or not. One of the problems with using gear oil in a manual transmission meant for ATF is that some of the gear oil additives may not be the best for the application. This seems to be the case with Contour MTX75 transmissions, especially those with higher than factory power levels, when Red Line MTL was used. The fluid sludged up and the sludge blocked some lubrication channels on the shafts of the spyder gears. This was the topic of one of the longest threads in the old forums titled "watch out". Subsequent oil analysis of new MTL showed that it did not have a very high TBN (total base number) which is an attribute that fights sludge creation. The gear oil additives are what broke down causing the sludge.

Ford Honey is very near 10W40 engine oil. It has a high TBN. It is made mostly of group III base (considered synthetic in the US). It has little if any friction modifiers or ep additives. Some suppliers (Royal Purple for one) recommend their synthetic 10W40 for use in our transmission.

Probably more than you wanted to know.
 
Maybe I should have warned you that the alternate name for friction modifier is "stink". Handle it with care.

Ugh thats the truth. I did a fluid change on one of my mazdas back when I had longer hair and of course tranny fluid got in it. After a day the smell was still there so we shaved it and I've had shorter hair since.
 
Probably more than you wanted to know.
Not at all. Thank you for taking the time to explain all that. You have made choosing a transmission oil much easier to understand and less of a 'follow others blindly' issue. ...G.
 
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