I have this noise coming from the driverside wheel of my 01 Mountaineer V8. I cant find an answer anywhere so I have come to the most faithful help I have ever been able to find, this website, for a little help. I just replaced the brake pads on the front end to try and stop this and it did not work. The rotor was loose on the drivers side but I dont think that should cause this noise. The noise is a swirling metal on metal contact and I am not sure what it could be. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Metal on Metal while driving
- Thread starter hoger29
- Start date
raise that wheel with a jack/stand.
grab the entire wheel/rim combo at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. wiggle the tire in a motion as if the tire is "making a turn" (as if you were rapidly moving the steering wheel left/right a couple of inches)
Any motion? any play?
Now, grab the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and pivot the wheel in an up/down fashion. Any play?
grab the entire wheel/rim combo at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. wiggle the tire in a motion as if the tire is "making a turn" (as if you were rapidly moving the steering wheel left/right a couple of inches)
Any motion? any play?
Now, grab the wheel at the 6 and 12 o'clock positions and pivot the wheel in an up/down fashion. Any play?
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
Is this a 4x4? If so, check out the front axles etc.
This is an AWD. I took it to a Ford Dealership and they said that the rear caliper had seized and needed to be changed and that the rotors and pads needed to be changed. Then they said the back side of the front rotors were bad and needed to be changed and the front lower ball joints were loose and the needed to be replaced. They proposed to do the work for 1200 bucks. I dont know what the scraping noise would be unless the rotor is warped and hitting the pad or something? I was wondering if anyone has any advise on the brake job. Will I need to bleed the brakes after I install new calipers? Is there any easy way to do this? Does anyone have a more informative repair manual or guide than the vague Haynes manual? Thanks for any input.
Im my opinion don't trust the dealership. You could do most of the work by yourself with a little help and save a lot of money. When I took my VW in to the dealer because of drivability issues they said that they need to replace the injectors, intake manifold and others. I said no thanks and turned out to be the PCV valve which I changed on my own.
Good luck
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
u know, u could just take it to a shop, have them identify the source of the noise and give u a good explanation of why and where its making that noise. then take ur truck and bounce :laugh:. post the problem, and we'll provide the best way to go about fixing it. thats the way i do it anyway :laugh:
SO I changed the front rotors and norrowed down the noise to the rear seized caliper on the driverside. I got all of the parts and plan to do this tomorrow night. Any advise on a rear caliper job or on bleeding the brakes. I have never done either of these before so I am a little nervous.
I traded in my trusty 96 Contour toward this truck because I had mounting problem with it, including the brakes. I hope I didnt trade up for more expensive problems.
I traded in my trusty 96 Contour toward this truck because I had mounting problem with it, including the brakes. I hope I didnt trade up for more expensive problems.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
i dont know the specifics on a mountaineer's brake system, but they generally function the same. on my gmc i bled the brakes when i changed the pads. so u replacing the whole caliper?
98SVTC
Hard-core CEG'er
Break out the booze! Let there be dancing and merriment! The dealership was right! What, no apologies? Aren't you ashamed that you didn't believe them?? :nonono:
Folks, the dealerships look at a heck of a lot more vehicles than you and I think you can expect that they can diagnose something like this fairly easily. The bottom line is, if you can't diagnose it yourself for lack of knowledge, don't automatically think that you are somehow getting ripped off by someone who can. :idea: Oh, and remember those lower ball joints.
Karl
Taasman
CEG'er
Not a big deal, block the wheels pull rear tire. One word of advice...when you go to take the brake line off...be sure to use a line wrench, so if you dont have one, go get one. Then before you loosen it, give it a slight tighten before loosening the line. If you snap the line, you,ll have a bunch more work. Replace the Caliper with the new one making sure the cylinder is all the way inward. Then bleed that wheel completely. You might want to do a complete bleeding of the rear wheels after you have bled the caliper you replace. For more info on bleeding...just do a search bleeding brakes. Dont attempt the ball joints unless you have the know how and tools....but I would make a ball joint issue a priority. Pay me now....or pay me later !
I was reading the caliper instructions and it says something about needing to be careful with the emergency brake conection on the caliper, and having to readjust the emergency break after the reinstall. Anyone know if this is something easy or anything about doing it. It looks pretty straight forward and easy to unhook and hook up.
I will probably get a second qoute on the lower ball joints, I think that one might be beyond my current abilities. Plus it is winter and its cold and I have no garage.
I will probably get a second qoute on the lower ball joints, I think that one might be beyond my current abilities. Plus it is winter and its cold and I have no garage.
Taasman
CEG'er
The emergency brake cable should be straight forward. At least most are...I would have the ball joints done at a shop. Sometimes they can be a real pain. Have your wheel bearings checked at the same time for any play.
Big Jim
Hard-core CEG'er
IIRC the parking brake on a Mountaineer is a miniature drum brake that resides in the rotor hat. If that is correct, the park brake cables are not involved with the caliper.
I have the calipers off but I can not get the rotor off. I backed the adjustment screww all the way back and it still will not come off. The adjustment on the driverside will not move, is it safe to use some sort of penetrating oil on this? Any suggestions on how to get these rotors off or to get the srew on the driverside to move. This job wouldn't be that bad if the damn rotors would come off.