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MAJOR ISSUE: Water pump

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UmmScott

CEG'er
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
292
Location
Omaha, NE
Hey, to be quick, i have the 2.0l 95 contour. My water pump needs to be replaced asap, it looks simple, but do i really have to remove that stupid timing belt? I have never had any luck when messing with that belt and i was wondering if i could take the bolts out and shimmy the pump around the belt, is this possible?

Any responses fast are appreciated...

Thanks
 
Yeah you really do have to take off the timing belt. It's easy. The hardest part of replacing the WP is getting past the power steering pump to get to the lower radiator hose and get it off the WP. For the timing belt, just get a piece of angle iron or aluminum stock, whatever, to use as the cam alignment tool. I think it needs to be about 3/8" thick or 5/16" thick or so. I cant' remember offhand.

Abridged version (after you remove all serpentine belt and pulleys and timing guards and valve cover):

-Take crank pulley that you removed previously and put it back on the crank now that the timing guards are off. It is keyed and can only go on one way.
-Line up the notch on the crank pulley with the wedge-shape on the oil pan.
-Make sure the cams are aligned at the end and the notches are lying flat. Insert the cam alignment tool
-Remove crank pulley
-Make marks on the crank/timing belt/cam gears to help line up the timing belt for when you have to put it back on
-Loosen tension in the tensioner. This requires an allen/key wrench.
-Remove belt.

For the power steering, there are 4 bolts located behind the pulley. You need to turn the pulley to find each one. You can force the pump aside to gain access to the radiator hose where it connects to the water pump. When replacing the water pump, make sure to clean the mating surface along the block REALLY WELL.

To reinstall timing belt:
-Start at the crank, using your lines to help you line up the belt to the crank to make it easier. Pull up to the front cam gear and line up the lines again, then again at the rear cam gear, and finally slip the belt over the tensioner. Tighten the tensioner such that there is about 1/4" play from top to bottom between the cam gears when you pull on the belt.
-Make sure cams are still lined up after the belt is installed to make sure you did it correctly
-Remove cam alignement tool
-Turn crank by hand to make sure the engine is in time.

Voila!

Couple things:
I would give yourself LOTS of time if you don't have an impact wrench.
I would remove the coolant reservoir to give yourself extra space to work. It's worth it.

Here is a pic of the crank pulley lined up with the oil pan:
0718091232.jpg
 
To make it easy, could i just mark the timing belt and gears all at one spot with paint or something so i could just slip it on? Ive seriously gone thru about 6 valve cover gaskets trying to get that thing on right. I even have that tool that fits in the camshafts. Would this work?
 
Just follow what I said for taking it off. You can't just "take the timing belt off." You need to follow a regimented procedure, which I detailed for you. I gave you the easy way to do it. Most people will tell you to use the pin to set TDC, but you don't have to purchase that.
 
UmmScott said:
To make it easy, could i just mark the timing belt and gears all at one spot with paint or something so i could just slip it on? Ive seriously gone thru about 6 valve cover gaskets trying to get that thing on right. I even have that tool that fits in the camshafts. Would this work?
Click to expand...

zorrex said:
Just follow what I said for taking it off. You can't just "take the timing belt off." You need to follow a regimented procedure, which I detailed for you. I gave you the easy way to do it. Most people will tell you to use the pin to set TDC, but you don't have to purchase that.
Click to expand...

actually, if you pull the crank pulley so you can see the crank timing gear, then you can mark all 3 gears and the belt with white out. this is how I swapped the timing belt on my 97 the first time. just make sure to make 1 solid mark on each gear that marks both the gear and the belt, one tooth on each gear works well. then when you go to put the belt back on, line up the crank gear first and then work counterclockwise.
 
striker2 said:
actually, if you pull the crank pulley so you can see the crank timing gear, then you can mark all 3 gears and the belt with white out. this is how I swapped the timing belt on my 97 the first time. just make sure to make 1 solid mark on each gear that marks both the gear and the belt, one tooth on each gear works well. then when you go to put the belt back on, line up the crank gear first and then work counterclockwise.
Click to expand...

+1 that's kinda what I do, and the last zetec timing belt I changed took half an hour from the time I turned the car off till I drove it out of the driveway.

I just line up the crank pulley and then make marks on the cams for alignment. Though if you are doing zorrex's procedure right, and have the cam alignment tool, you shouldn't really be having any problem. That is the right way to do it after all.

Though I should add, nothing against striker, but there is almost no reason you should ever be doing something with the engine that requires taking the timing belt off and not replace the timing belt. They are cheap, and it's a 60-100 thousand miles of insurance that you wont have to do it again. Conversely, whenever I replace a timing belt on one of these engines, I swap water pumps.
 
FIND said:
Though I should add, nothing against striker, but there is almost no reason you should ever be doing something with the engine that requires taking the timing belt off and not replace the timing belt. They are cheap, and it's a 60-100 thousand miles of insurance that you wont have to do it again. Conversely, whenever I replace a timing belt on one of these engines, I swap water pumps.
Click to expand...

I completely agree. I should have actually mentioned this. I've taken apart the timing on this car 5 times now. That is completely inexcusable. When I first replaced my water pump I should have replaced the timing belt and pulleys as well, but I didn't, and I paid for it. Then of course the water pump I replaced failed on me and started leaking (I think, I still haven't tested it yet), and had to take the damn thing apart again, and yadda yadda. Long story short, I've had it apart 5 times, should have only been twice. :shrug:
 
well I suppose I am pushing my luck then. ran the first timing belt to 104k. car now how 219k. haven't changed the waterpump, although sometimes I think I should have. either way I think Im running this one until it breaks, well I should go inspect it first. but the belts are actually really good, its the pullies that have to be checked.
 
FIND said:
Though I should add, nothing against striker, but there is almost no reason you should ever be doing something with the engine that requires taking the timing belt off and not replace the timing belt. They are cheap, and it's a 60-100 thousand miles of insurance that you wont have to do it again. Conversely, whenever I replace a timing belt on one of these engines, I swap water pumps.
Click to expand...

not true. in my case, I had to take the head off several times due to issues with a head gasket (this was after i had turboed the car) all within 10K miles of installing the new belt. I dont know about you, but im not about to spend the money on a new belt every few thousand miles just because im taking it off the cams (especially since you can take the head off without ever taking the crank pulley and thus the lower timing cover off)

also, I never said he should reuse his old belt, never said he should replace it either though. you can still mark the belt and replace it, you just have to transfer the marks over to the new belt.
 
striker2 said:
not true. in my case, I had to take the head off several times due to issues with a head gasket (this was after i had turboed the car) all within 10K miles of installing the new belt. I dont know about you, but im not about to spend the money on a new belt every few thousand miles just because im taking it off the cams (especially since you can take the head off without ever taking the crank pulley and thus the lower timing cover off)

also, I never said he should reuse his old belt, never said he should replace it either though. you can still mark the belt and replace it, you just have to transfer the marks over to the new belt.
Click to expand...

ok, I guess there are some exceptions, and sorry if I had misunderstood you.
 
Sealant on Gasket???

Sealant on Gasket???

Lots of input, thanks guys. Last question, Ive never done a water pump before. When i watched my dad put one on his old 1970 Buick gransport it required a silicone sealant.

Does the gasket that comes with this water pump need sealant also?
I need to get this done today or else gettin to my college will be a hassle.

Thanks.
 
Mission accomplished

Mission accomplished

After much labor with getting that stupid clamp off the water pump from the lower radiator hose i finally fixed it on monday of this week.

Car runs fine now, just who in gods name designed that lower radiator hose, id like to have a word with him/her or whoever haha.:cool:
 
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