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Lean Conditions - Intake Manifold Leak?

Ferret II

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 8, 2004
Messages
66
Location
WA
Hi Everyone!

This is a question about our 1996 Mercury Mystique LS, 2.5L Duratec, MTX, with about 60K original (verified) miles on the odometer. I’m posting this with my husband, since I’m the writer and he’s the mechanic! He’s reached a turning point and is hoping for advice.

Over the past months – and given I only put about 2500 miles a year on the car – the idle began showing an intermittent slight stumble. In the past few weeks, however, when the car is warm (my husband is calling this a hot soak…) it has an intermittent hard start, i.e., the idle stumbles, drops, and may die if the throttle isn’t engaged to rescue it. Generally it starts fine, and otherwise runs great. (My husband says it’s more like a hot soak problem that may indicate a dirty manifold.)

He’s been trouble-shooting a lean condition, and at first discovered a severely damaged PCV hose, which he repaired. Following this repair, the idle had the same stumble problem, and scan data still shows lean conditions at both banks, as follows: Long-term Fuel Trim (LTFT) Bank 1 at 15 points positive; LTFT Bank 2 at 20 points positive. Also, Short-term Fuel Trim (STFT) at each bank lingers around 0 (maybe 1 or two points positive).

Revving the engine to about 2500 RPM brings the LTFT down, at each bank, to close to 10 points positive, or even less, and the STFT stays pretty much the same. This seems to indicate a vacuum leak somewhere after the MAF. The MAF, IAC, EGR, and TPS have all responded properly to RPM changes (so seem to be doing what they’re supposed to), and the throttle plate and IAC have been cleaned and both gaskets replaced (and seem to be working fine).

At idle, he tested the most suspect hose connections and gasket areas with propane, and got no indication of changes in RPM or LTFT. Later on, also at idle, he injected propane under the manifold cover (between the engine block and the manifold area), at the Bank 2 location, and noticed a change in RPM (it bogged down) and also the STFT dramatically dropped to minus 20 points. Therefore, he concluded the propane itself seemed to enrich the conditions, indicating a lean condition where the O2 sensors still seem to managing the fuel trim values around desirable levels (i.e., at zero plus one or two points). Based on this, he concluded that both upstream O2 sensors are working (since they managed the STFT for both banks in this test).

He has also thinks, though isn’t sure of this diagnosis, that either the top or bottom manifold gasket has a slight vacuum leak. However, especially since the computer is able to keep the STFT around 0%, he’s wondering if we should venture into a UIM/LIM cleaning/rebuild project at this point.

Again, apart from the intermittent stumbling idle at start-up when warm, the car runs flawlessly under any load, and though he hasn’t confirmed it, he presumes this means the fuel injectors and fuel pump are okay. Also, there are currently no codes; after the damaged PVC hose was fixed, my husband erased the lean condition code and it hasn’t returned.). We got the car about 8K miles/three years ago, with no maintenance records, so don’t know what’s been done to date. We have not changed plugs or wires, which would otherwise be due.

So, we’re wondering if we should venture into a UIM/LIM cleaning/rebuild at this point, since clearly the idle stumbling issue is getting worse, and we’re worried that leaving it to the computer to correct an apparently lean condition could eventuate in damage to the front catalytic converters – not a cost-effective option.

Any advice will be appreciated!

Thanks.
 
Yes. And your solution is - more cowbell.

Seriously, I can tell you're a writer. That is a very good description of the problem. And the troubleshooting is pretty good too. I've never seen someone use propane like that. I would plan to clean the intakes, replace the gaskets, and have some hose lengths on hand as you'll probably find another vacuum hose or two that are cracked.
 
I would do the upper/lower intake manifold gasket replacement, as well as look into all vacuum hoses, the valve cover breather hoses, the valve cover gaskets (while you have it apart that far, you should do these as well since the manifolds must be removed to do those as well. Clean the EGR/TB systems. Also the vacuum hoses behind the manifold get cracked easily,

The ECU will compensate for fuel trims up to 25% positive or negative, and you have it a bit high, but not high enough to set a code yet, according to the live data you posted.

I also suggest replacing the oxygen sensors, all 4 of them because they likely are becoming sluggish, which can affect fuel trims.
 
Generally when both banks indicate a lean condition the MAF is subject. Clean it and see if it makes a difference.

An intake cleaning and new gaskets is always a good idea and should only help.

Also test the EGR valve to make sure that it is not stuck open at idle. Pull the vacuum line on it and apply a vacuum. When the valve opens it will cause the idle to stumble.

Finally, since its a pre98 how is the wiring harness?
 
Hi. I appreciate the suggestions! And the Sat Night more cowbell skit was hilarious. I had not seen it, and love Christopher Walken. I sure do tend to write long, and appreciate anyone who reads through my encyclopedic posts!

Let me see. We have already begun the scavenger hunt for parts, and will probably go OEM at least for the intake manifold gaskets (not that it would matter too much). I guess we will add fuel injector O rings to ScotSHO's list.

EGR valve was previously tested as suggested (thanks BrApple!); had already also cleaned the throttle body and MAF (which tested good). Given the apparent manifold leak it is hard to conclude these components are flawlessly working, though, so after doing the UIM/LIM work, which seems necessary, we can re-evaluate these components.

Thanks for the specific suggestions, ccingthr. A couple thousand miles ago we changed the O2 sensors; well, all except Bank 1-1 (if that is the right name, but is what I have in my notes); it must have tested working and is probably the more difficult one to get to (still have the new one we'd bought for that, though, and may just put it in, even though scan data indicates it's working). In terms of the valve cover gaskets, I checked with my husband and he does not want to do them right off (which is sort of a relief for me, as I am worried enough about the intake manifold work).

Ah, the engine harnesses!! They still look great, at 58K miles, so am hoping there are no any crumbly surprises lurking about - always good to keep in mind, though.

Again, we sure appreciate the help!
 
Yes lets get a PNW UIM/LIM cleaning party for sure. how bout behind the throttle body? I know that can get gunked up as well..
 
Hi. I appreciate the suggestions! And the Sat Night more cowbell skit was hilarious. I had not seen it, and love Christopher Walken. I sure do tend to write long, and appreciate anyone who reads through my encyclopedic posts!

Let me see. We have already begun the scavenger hunt for parts, and will probably go OEM at least for the intake manifold gaskets (not that it would matter too much). I guess we will add fuel injector O rings to ScotSHO's list.

EGR valve was previously tested as suggested (thanks BrApple!); had already also cleaned the throttle body and MAF (which tested good). Given the apparent manifold leak it is hard to conclude these components are flawlessly working, though, so after doing the UIM/LIM work, which seems necessary, we can re-evaluate these components.

Thanks for the specific suggestions, ccingthr. A couple thousand miles ago we changed the O2 sensors; well, all except Bank 1-1 (if that is the right name, but is what I have in my notes); it must have tested working and is probably the more difficult one to get to (still have the new one we'd bought for that, though, and may just put it in, even though scan data indicates it's working). In terms of the valve cover gaskets, I checked with my husband and he does not want to do them right off (which is sort of a relief for me, as I am worried enough about the intake manifold work).

Ah, the engine harnesses!! They still look great, at 58K miles, so am hoping there are no any crumbly surprises lurking about - always good to keep in mind, though.

Again, we sure appreciate the help!

Should change the bank 1 sensor 1 O2 sensor; these cars have a habit of throwing P0420 cat inefficiency codes, even though scan data shows it works, the switching has to be at a certain level to avoid the code, and keeping LTFT numbers below 5% positive on each bank. To make it easier to swap, pull the coil pack away from its location and it is easier to get to that way.
OO
The scan tool I have is the professional dealer version laptop scanner that is capable of graphing oxygen sensor data and the graphing is easier to tell how well it is working, upstream O2 sensor data should flip from .02-.07 to .800-.900 volt without stopping in between those numbers, and the graph needs to be a short wavelength.

I still suggest pulling the valve covers while the intake is off, that is the only way they can be removed to fix the leak. They also could have a minor leak, and this could affect vacuum, and the LTFT fuel numbers. PVC valve, all vacuum lines, especially the plastic lines that are behind the intake manifold.

Felpro makes excellent gaskets that are somewhat better than OEM, I used these on my intake, valve covers, transmission pan, oil pan, TB and EGR system.

It took me and a friend 13 hours to clean the intake and change the valve cover gaskets. Another 4 hours changing the oil pan and transmission pan gaskets. 2 hours to swap injectors (which I suggest you consider, if not take them in to be sonic cleaned professionally). High LTFT numbers could suggest the injectors are not opening and closing completely as they should.
 
Hi. Thanks again for the info. Again, though, we’re not planning to routinely pull the valve covers as part of the UIM/LIM work. We will likely clean the injectors, though will probably do that ourselves.

Hey Satya, do you mean physically right behind the TB, or specific component areas? Would like to check it out but am not sure where you mean.
 
Hi. Thanks again for the info. Again, though, we’re not planning to routinely pull the valve covers as part of the UIM/LIM work. We will likely clean the injectors, though will probably do that ourselves.

Hey Satya, do you mean physically right behind the TB, or specific component areas? Would like to check it out but am not sure where you mean.

The EGR system gets clogged up easy and the passages to that are right behind the TB, and goes toward the EGR valve.

Ultrasonic injector cleaning is a bit better, and it can pinpoint issues with the injector duty cycle where a regular cleaning can't do. I take my stuff to Dr. Injector in Tacoma (there is one in Kent) for cleaning and specs to see if they are working correctly. On my car, I chose to replace the injectors due to the issues I had with them.
 
Thanks. We were saying talking earlier today about how we should replace the DPFE sensor while we have easy access, and plugs and wires, too, (and that B-1-1 O2 Sensor). It was quite an adventure when we replaced the DPFE sensor on the '95, bout ten years ago now (!) since the part had been updated or something to that effect, and there was some re-wiring or something needed. Fortunately I still have notes/emails about that and can look back, but I also see from Rockauto that the '96 has different part numbers for the DPFE than the '95 (naturally!!). Ha ha - these cars are always an adventure! You just have to try to keep smiling....
 
Thanks. We were saying talking earlier today about how we should replace the DPFE sensor while we have easy access, and plugs and wires, too, (and that B-1-1 O2 Sensor). It was quite an adventure when we replaced the DPFE sensor on the '95, bout ten years ago now (!) since the part had been updated or something to that effect, and there was some re-wiring or something needed. Fortunately I still have notes/emails about that and can look back, but I also see from Rockauto that the '96 has different part numbers for the DPFE than the '95 (naturally!!). Ha ha - these cars are always an adventure! You just have to try to keep smiling....

Usually, the DPFE sensor fails, but on mine, both the upper and lower intake manifolds were plugged almost solid with carbon, and the EGR passages were plugged solid. I ended up tanking mine after I stripped it of sensors and plastic. A bit of a chore, but tanking it gets EVERYTHING off. Had to do it twice, once in the acid bath, and the second a bath in a neutralizer, than a spray down with water. I think, on mine the massive clog did damage to the cats, when I got it both cats were not functioning, but got bank 2 to open up with water injection and bank 2 to wake up for a short period. I am going to try a trick to see if I can open it up more by using a chemical cleaner that is fairly strong.


The 95 uses a different sensor than the 96 (and early OBD2 cars). Should be easier to replace if the manifold is off.
 
Thanks. Just wondering, does anyone else have an opinion on whether it makes much difference to go OEM for the UIM/LIM gaskets and fuel injector parts? They’re mostly available, if a bit pricier, with a little hunting.

Another alternative is a fuel injector repair kit, which comes with the UIM gaskets and all the fuel injector components, and we would only need to add the LIM gaskets. There are two options for the kit: Airtex/Well Part # 2G1477 (#CK1002); and Standard Motor Part # 2023. The OEM kit is long gone.

Or, we could do a combo with Fel Pro or Victor Rienz UIM/LIM gaskets and OEM fuel injector components. (I've got one vote for Fel Pro from Ccingthr - thanks!)

Decisions, decisions, decisions!
 
Thanks. Just wondering, does anyone else have an opinion on whether it makes much difference to go OEM for the UIM/LIM gaskets and fuel injector parts? They’re mostly available, if a bit pricier, with a little hunting.

Another alternative is a fuel injector repair kit, which comes with the UIM gaskets and all the fuel injector components, and we would only need to add the LIM gaskets. There are two options for the kit: Airtex/Well Part # 2G1477 (#CK1002); and Standard Motor Part # 2023. The OEM kit is long gone.

Or, we could do a combo with Fel Pro or Victor Rienz UIM/LIM gaskets and OEM fuel injector components. (I've got one vote for Fel Pro from Ccingthr - thanks!)

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

A fuel injector repair kit would reseal the injectors, which I recommend, but the kit would not clean or repair any electrical issue with the injector, which these electrical issues can be hidden and hard to spot. The way Ford wired the injection is they are wired sequentially, where if one injector goes out, it takes the rest on the same bank out as well. I do know that there has been a recent redesign of the injector where the design of the casing is better designed to prevent cracking and leakage, particularly the tip that goes into the manifold, where on most older designs the injector has a plastic piece that is on a metal component of the injector, and the plastic breaks easy causing major leaks. I prefer a BWD injector that has a heavy plastic outer shell that is one piece that covers the whole injector.

I prefer a Fel-Pro gasket kit, it is slightly thicker and has rubber O-rings that seal the manifold tight.
 
Over the years there have been very few reports of issues with fuel injectors. I would just change the O-rings and call it a day unless you really want to send them out for cleaning, etc.

I would recommend OEM parts as these cars can be sensitive to parts. However with UIM/LIM gaskets it really shouldn't matter who makes them. Just compare to the originals and make sure they are the same.
 
Thanks! My husband will likely take the whole rail out without disassembling individual injectors. Apparently he's going to run an injector balance test, and if they pass he's going to leave them in the rail. That means at this point we're hoping to only replace the fuel rail to LIM seals (those little seriously over-priced orange plastic Pizza Hut flying-saucer gizmo thingies.) He says that sometime down the road he could run a fuel injector service while they're installed; we bought some kind of a Ford specific fuel injector "on-car" service cleaner awhile back for this purpose. Oh, and I try to send things out as little as possible for fear they'll be wrecked!
 
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