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Joe's Powder Co. (pricing listed inside)

i'm suprised you even where able to start washing them in the kitchen sink .... if I tried that when I lived home my mother would have killed me.
 
My mom wouldn't have been too happy either. Good thing I own my home and I pay the bills :D
 
blu_fuz said:
My mom wouldn't have been too happy either. Good thing I own my home and I pay the bills :D
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well I will be in the same situation soon.

actually I have washed wheels in the bathtub of my apartment before :laugh: never could get all the rubber marks off the tub. luckly it cracked and they just recently repalced it :crazy:
 
Lookin good joe! I'm wondering if i should even put these on this winter or wait till spring along with my polished Coolant and PS tanks, i don't have wheels wells and i fear it'll ruin everything. Can you even use brake kleen on powder? or soap and water always? what about when i detail my motor, simple green and a can of wd-40 still? just a couple questions i was curious on.
 
I wouldn't use anything but dish soap and water or a damp cloth on powder coated parts. They are already repelling any dirt because they are not poreous(sp) and usually wipe clean with just a damp cloth..... Each powder color and brand is different for being oil and fuel resistant, so I would be cautious as to which chemicals you use.

Brake clean on those parts probably isn't a good idea, and you won't need simple green on these parts.

Imagine it is like cleaning a window or a dinner plate, what would you use to clean them? The powder is very durrable but I wouldn't chance it. Try some of your cleaning products on a section that won't be visible after it is installed. That will tell you what you can and can't use.

For cleaning the inside of the valve covers, I would suggest covering the holes that go through to the coated side and possibly cover the coated side with plastic and tape. Use brake cleaner or a motor flush solution and a stiff brush to get the tough spots. Keep the valve cover vertical so the solution doesn't pool up and leak through to the coated side.

If everyone cleans the inside of the valve covers before sending them to me, then you can clean them with whatever you have, IE gasoline, brake cleen, simple green, etc.... It will save you more time in the long run IMO.
 
Got a shipment of Harley Davidson parts in. He wants them black hammertone. I will be sad to see all this chrome go away :cry:, but it is my job.
Some before pics:
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Too late Collin.

I just got finished coating over 30 parts and I am pooped. 4.5 hrs of non stop powder coating today. We are going to be getting nailed with some massive snow storms starting tomorrow and there will be nasty, windy weather for about the next week. I just wanted to get everything done and out of the way because I will have hours of snowblowing and shoveling to do.......

It seems that everyone sends their parts on the same day :nonono:......



I am uploading pics to photobucket right now, so get your popcorn and a cold one :drool:. Stay tuned.

I coated:
-satin black
-gloss black
-chrome
-candy red
-high temp silver
-black wrinkle
 
awesome stuff man! your imrc cover and sunroof motor are on the way. I think you will find the box rather familiar. Oh so is the 3rd brake light and wiring but from a different location.
 
i know i'm happy, i'm just waiting on the vacuum ports for my UIM and valve cover gaskets and then i'll be makin a thread with my new finally colored engine bay...:)
 
CollinsPC said:
Nothing better for durability and look than Powder Coated parts in my opinion.
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Very true, best bang for the buck! With prices as low as mine, there really is no other choice really.

The only problems sometimes is that some parts are so porous or bumpy that the coating looks like crud and other parts can't handle the heat. I have acess to automotive wet spray applications too where I work.

For example, I am coating a turbo intake tube and under the paint that was on it was bondo/filler to smooth out some crummy welds. Well, if I blasted it all the way down to metal, who knows what it would look like :shrug:.

I contacted the owner of the part and let him know what the situation is and he agreed to just have it "wet sprayed" instead of taking the chance with the powder coat over bondo. I don't think it will stick to bondo, but it does stick to JB weld just fine.

Here are some pics:
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It is now in the paint booth coated with primer. Then it will get a filler coat, sanded, primed, and then painted for the same price he was quoted for the powder coating.
random001.jpg
 
The bondo would not hold up to the heat of coating. JB Weld works but not very well, tends to outgas and not keep its shape. You need to run those parts through an outgas cycle to see if the repair is going to shrink. There are some higher temp leads out there that can be used for coating.

You could also use a powder coat primer as your base coat and then top coat it with the prefered color for the smaller imperfections.
 
CollinsPC said:
You could also use a powder coat primer as your base coat and then top coat it with the prefered color for the smaller imperfections.
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Yah, but not for the price that I offer :rolleyes:. If you want perfection you will have to do some sanding/polishing yourself before parts are sent to me. That's just how it is.

I did coat a throttle body that had a tab entirely made of JB weld. It didn't shrink, deform, or outgas. I usually do a pre-bake on parts to release the gas before coating. Valve covers and UIMs definetly. You never know with those....
 
That kind of item you need an outgas cycle. Su$$s to have the part come out of the oven with craters and mountains in the finish:mad::blackeye:
 
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