biminiLX
Hard-core CEG'er
K&N with the original oil/never re-oiled and it did that? I've never seen that. Either way, I'm not worried about the K&N in this case.
-J
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Intake
- Thread starter svt tourin
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-J
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
Yes. The internet is full of stories just like that with new filters out of the bag both letting in dirt and damaging MAF sensors. And all of that for less than 1% better flow in most tests.
biminiLX
Hard-core CEG'er
hmm, that sucks.
I do follow the K&N directions and let it air-dry on a newspaper before installing but never even noticed any residue. Only did that with 2 panel filter though.
-J
99Mystique ATX
Hard-core CEG'er
Interesting... I did some research on the Dryflow filters. They look pretty good to me. I wouldn't hesitate to run one.
General concensus seems to be that they filter better but don't flow quite as well. In our case we could just run a longer one with the NPG intake to compensate for less airflow... A bigger filter should allow for more airflow and I don't see any downsides to that on the CAI...
General concensus seems to be that they filter better but don't flow quite as well. In our case we could just run a longer one with the NPG intake to compensate for less airflow... A bigger filter should allow for more airflow and I don't see any downsides to that on the CAI...
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
Well this is straight out of the box following their directions. As for residue, try wiping the inside of the throttle body boot and see if you find any oil or grit.
I wouldnt either so that will be my next purchase when I think this paper Fram has had enough.
Are you referring to the stock paper filter or a K&N type oiled filter? The AFE and AEM filters are proven to flow just as well as an oiled filter but still like I said thats tested to be only about 1% better than a paper filter in the first place.
Don't forget that other hoses do run to the intake pipe. Which means that the residue you find in there doesn't necessarily mean its from poor filtration.
PVC?? UIM hose? etc
It seems you have been mis informed about certain aspects of a filters properties. Now this 1% of more air flow is false. You must do a bench flow with a knn and then a paper filter to find out the true results.
My old ranger, we did run a bench flow test and found that we had a 4.7% increase. All we did is replace the stock oem paper filter with a OEM style KNN. Not an OPEN air element. And this was done at the Pro-m lab here in troy, Michigan. My 3.0L truck was used as a test mule for a 3.0l MAF they were creating. So 1% is seriously a false claim to be pressing across the board.
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biminiLX
Hard-core CEG'er
Yep, I wasn't buying that flow info. either.
-J
-J
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
This was right after the filter box and the oil was red, so it was K&N oil.
I'm not confused but then again I didnt do the tests. The guys over on BITOG have all the test numbers for the filters they tested.
I might agree that certain air filters were not designed for great air flow.
See a conical filter actually flows better than a flat panel air filter. Like the ford ranger went from a flat filter to a conical filter to a flat filter again.
All 3 filters have different flow characteristics. Because some of the filter paper is longer than others. Meaning thicker, wider and taller. So everything plays a role here in testing these filters against one another. If you look at kn&n filters the veins of the filter are actually shorter, where paper filters have longer veins. So its hard to measure these accurately. Unless these people who actually did do these results built a KN&N filter that is identical in all aspects of a paper filter and then tested it. Which obviously KNN can't not do because of copyright laws.
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
A very good point about exact accuracy. To my knowledge no one has built a flow bench just for these kinds of tests on a whole filter. I'm honestly not sure if the BITOG testers were using a whole filter or just a cross section of each filter. I will say that when I worked at autozone years and years ago we had a "test" machine for filters but according to the instructions you had to open this slot on the back when testing the k&n so of course the ball jumped up the top. And if you opened the back on the paper filter it would jump just as fast but the instructions said to leave the slot closed.
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SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
I've never understood the oil thing really. If you want better filtration, use a paper filter. Don't try to make a high-flow filter perform like a paper one. Like BiminiLX, I've never oiled and never had problems with four different cars and countless different setups.
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
Never understood the need for an oiled filter? Is that what you're trying to say?
Yea, thats what he's saying.
I dont oil mine that well. I do a light coat after a good cleaning.
SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
If you put it that way, I'll just straight disagree rather than say I don't understand. They do not NEED oil, so there is a complete absence of a NEED for an oiled filter. The oil is RECOMMENDED and is supposed to increase the filters efficiency. Again, if flow filtration is your main concern, you should use an OEM filter.
Or don't use a filter at all :shrug: :laugh:
At the oil chagne shopped i worked at. I would show people the air filter that they were running in there car. Some people would tell me to throw it out...wtf??
They always told me they would buy their own. lol. 3-4k miles later the same car would come in. No air filter. I just laughed and told would tell them they have no filter. Oh the car runs fine, i don't need one. Crazy cheap americans.
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
So once you clean your oiled filter you dont bother re-oiling it? I thought the oil helped hold dirt in place instead of passing right through the porous filter.
SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
Correct and correct.
No oil on my K&N style filters, ever. The oil DOES help trap more dirt than just the filter by itself, but often leads to the MAFS issues talked about in this thread from either over-oiling, or not cleaning often enough. Besides, filtering just a little better than not filtering very well, (compared to an OEM filter), doesn't mean much in my book. Especially since we're dealing with particulate matter.
FIND
Addicted CEG'er
I have used k&n Filters on 5 of my 6 last vehicles. I always clean then oil them every 10,000 miles and never have had any problems. After you oil your filter dab them with a shop rag. If your shop rag comes back with oil on it then you have over oiled it. There should only be enough oil on your filter to partially saturate the element. Although I should point out that replacement K&N for your factory filter will not give you any gain in performance or milage. Put your air box on a flow bench, first with the stock filter, then with a K&N or similar filter, then with no filter, you will see that the airbox will flow nearly the same regardless.
biminiLX
Hard-core CEG'er
Damn, every 10k?
I try to do it at least once a year (and then try to let it dry for at least 24hr).
-J
I try to do it at least once a year (and then try to let it dry for at least 24hr).
-J
Dyoel182
Addicted CEG'er
I'm assuming you put more than 10k on the car a year?