in that case, you must not have properly installed the lug nuts. The bolt circle of the lugs is centered. The only way it would cause a vibration would be if you put the wheel on, the weight of the wheel was making it off center (with no hubcentric ring this is possible), then put the lug nuts on and tightened them, gouging the aluminum in the wheel. Meaning, while you lug studs are centered, the wheel is not centered the on the studs. The taper fit will not correct the misalignment to that extreme, the aluminum is too soft. You need to snug the nut and rotate the wheel and snug, etc, to use the taper to center the wheel.
-
Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.
You can register to join the community.
Hubcentric rings?
- Thread starter zorrex
- Start date
in that case, you must not have properly installed the lug nuts. The bolt circle of the lugs is centered. The only way it would cause a vibration would be if you put the wheel on, the weight of the wheel was making it off center (with no hubcentric ring this is possible), then put the lug nuts on and tightened them, gouging the aluminum in the wheel. Meaning, while you lug studs are centered, the wheel is not centered the on the studs. The taper fit will not correct the misalignment to that extreme, the aluminum is too soft. You need to snug the nut and rotate the wheel and snug, etc, to use the taper to center the wheel.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
You know what, I actually did try the snug lug/rotate wheel trick. That didn't work in this case. Smalls has the KMCs now that I had that with..... I will use them either way from now on.
i agree that there is no reason not to use them, i was merely trying to correct some mis-information.
snippets from and engineering discussion that support my arguement:
from an auto engineer:
"If the subject was balancing OEM wheels, I'd say balance by the hub hole. In cases where people are concerned about hub-centricity, such as the OP, it is because they have aftermarket wheels with over-bored hub holes - and are questioning the function of hub adapter rings (rightly so since there are plastic and aluminum variety). Upon installing these wheels, even with hub adapter rings, it is the conical lugs acting upon the conical lug seats in the wheel that dictate the location of the wheel, not the hub. To my understanding, the adapter rings only purpose is to _help_ installation by getting the wheel closer to center, making the installation of the lug nuts easier and less likely to scratch the wheel on the sides of the lug nuts. Seems logical to balance these wheels that way, instead of by the hub hole which is for all purposes, floating around the hub."
from another auto engineer:
"It is true that the hub is bearing the load, but not at the machined center where it protrudes into the wheel. There is no way that portion of the hub could bear the load unless there was zero clearance between the hub and the wheel.
The hub is bearing the load, not at its center protrusion, but rather at the wheel bearing locations.
Similar to what others have stated, once the wheel is "clamped" to the hub, the hub and wheel become one assembly. This is no different than a two-piece wheel being bolted together. The load isn't taken at the bolts clamping the two halves together as the wheel is essentially one unit at this point.
In most cases, the protrusion of the hub is there because the design requires a wheel bearing in this area of the hub. If the wheel bearing wasn't there, the hub protrusion wouldn't be required. In that case, there would also be no need for a hole in the center of the wheel."
zorrex
Enjoys the Abuse
What I attempted to do while installing the wheels was hold up the wheel while hand tightening the top lugnut, then let the wheel hang on that stud while I used an impact for the others, and came back to that top lug nut. I hope that makes sense.
EDIT: Just read your engineer tidbit there, Jeff. Nice read, good info. I'm glad this has been cleared up for everyone.
EDIT: Just read your engineer tidbit there, Jeff. Nice read, good info. I'm glad this has been cleared up for everyone.
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
Awesome info, thanks for clearing it up! This should be stickied 
.
.KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
indeed, so are they expensive? think they are worth it?
blu_fuz
New Member Classroom vulture
It is like $5-10 for the plastic ones and $25ish for the metal ones. Worth it=yes, no brainer.
KAOS_3.0
Hard-core CEG'er
word, I'll see how much my tire shop wants to charge me when I get the next tire, since every tire will come off the car to move the new rubber up front.