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Help designing sound system

Not really sure yet. I like the Image Dynamics one that you posted earlier. Its got a lot of good ratings, and for the price, you cant go wrong. Im not sold 100% on it yet, but its up there.
 
Image Dynamics just changed ownership within the past week. The main co founder didn't wanna sell out and the partner did. So the founder left the company and the partner sold it out to Powerbass. So pretty soon it will be Chinese made assembly line garbage instead of quality hand made in the USA. Story of our economy pretty much haha, yay capitalism!

Don't be afraid to look at other brands. There are plenty of top performers out there that will fit your budget. Just try to refrain from major big labels as they are often overpriced for what you are getting. cough cough JL Audio, Alpine, Kicker etc cough cough.

Be sure to run your choices by us, but I'm sure you know this by now... :D
 
Id like to keep it in the 10" range, for space and cost concerns.

First up for subs, we have the Infinity REF1062W 10"
Infinity%20REF1062W.jpg


Next we have the Polk Audio DB1040 10"
Polk%20Audio%20DB1040.jpg


Finally the Kicker 10C104 10"

Kicker%2010C104.jpg


Thoughts?
 
With the exception of the Kicker, those wouldn't work on your amp. You need a svc 4 ohm or dvc 2 ohm, because you can wire the d2 down to 4 ohms.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_13640_JBL-GT5-10.html This would be an excellent choice and with a ported box it only requires 1.25 cu/ft and tunes to 33hz which is good for sound quality.

The low end Polks aren't that great, they have decent sq but dont get very loud at all and most likely would leave you wanting more

All Kicker subs produce real boomy, sound and are just good at getting loud and not for sq. I have never found a Kicker sub that has good sq and I have played with just about every model.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10215_Boston-Acoustics-G110-4.html This is another good choice. BA makes very reliable subs with excellent sq.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_22123_Clarion-WG2510.html Never used Clarion subs, but the manual says 1.0 at 33hz which is good for what youre looking for.
 
Boy am I glad I posted stuff here haha. I think i just may go with that Boston. I have Boston computer spearkers/sub and I have had them for about 14+ years and they still sound amazing...

<3 Boston.
 
The G1 12 is a very efficient speaker. It takes very little power to get it sounding good and they are hella under rated, I have run twice the rated rms power to that G1 and my G5's and they take it no prob. The G1 10 has the same motor as the 12, its just attached to a smaller cone/basket so it should perform pretty well. They recommend 1.3 cu/ft at 36hz, you could sacrifice overall output and tune a little lower, say 32-33hz, and pick up a little bit of low end output. That will also help protect the sub because that amp doesnt have a sub sonic filter.
 
All items are now purchased. I have the Alpine amp, Infinity door speakers and the Boston sub. Now to do some fiberglassing and tuning and we should be rockin. Im excited!

I will update when everything is in. Thanks again for everyones help!
 
A custom ported box for a single 10 should run you $40-50 at a local shop. A prefab off the shelf box will be tuned too high and will give you a more boomier sound. Shop around at your local audio shops and look at their expertise, build quality and pricing. A shop that has people who compete in sound competitions on a consistent basis will have more knowledge when it comes to acoustics and box building and will be able to do a better job suiting it to your car and listening tastes.
 
I was going to recommend a G1 or if your not scared to run used keep an eye out on ebay for a old BA Pro10.5LF or pro12.5LF.
 
Nice choices, Kevin. Was looking at Infinity componenets for wife's car, but wound up going w/ MB Quart instead. Always heard good things about BA, looking forward to hearing it in person.
 
getsum111 said:
Looking forward to hearing it in person.
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Me too! haha. Again, Thanks for everyones help. If it weren't for this thread and you guys walking me through everything, I certainly would not have made as many good choices.

I get the amp and the door speakers yesterday so this weekend ill be making the amp rack. Everything wont go in intil I have everything done, but im aiming for mid spring for things to be in and working.
 
Not yet, getting the house ready for baby, and installing the clutch kind of got in the way. Hopeing to get it installed some time this summer.
 
FFE said:
Not yet, getting the house ready for baby, and installing the clutch kind of got in the way. Hopeing to get it installed some time this summer.
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Bummer, but oh well thats life. I'm lucky I'm still in college and can screw around with this stuff haha. I was browsing at an audio show a few months ago and found SPG's for under 200 a piece by themselves and was kicking myself for not having the cash on me.
 
OP- remember when setting the gain on the amps, the point is to match the voltage of your rca outputs on the headunit to the input voltage of the amp. If your headunit has 2.5v preouts, then the amp should be set for 2.5v. This is sometimes hard to do though- some amps have the actual voltage written on the dial, but most use arbitrary markings or numbers. On that Alpine amp you have, there will be a nom setting at about the 12 oclock position, I haven't fully confirmed it, but I'm pretty sure this is about 2v. I have 2.5v preouts on my headunit and I put the dial on the nominal setting and found it was making my door speakers bottom out so I dialed it back a little bit and the problem went away.
 
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