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header - pre cat removal how to

A

Ares

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Nov 24, 2004
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645
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in the garage
Does anyone know where the write up on this is. Saw some pics and a couple threads talking about this job, but the whole step by step would be really helpful. I think Tourige did it. :help:
 
I know I looked there, but this was all it has in the how to's link. Am I missing something, because it wasn't here.

The how to's link had these, nothing on removal/install


11/08/2008 12:00AM 372,062 Battery Relocation.pdf
01/13/2009 12:00AM 172,592 CDW HUB Installation.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 84,793 FSVT fuel pump installation.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 119,987 Fuel Filter replacement.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 124,887 Gutting precats how-to and MIL eliminator options (mechanic.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 596,755 Gutting Precats walkthrough.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 45,234 injector pinout.JPG
11/08/2008 12:00AM 192,757 MIL Eliminator How-to.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 102,072 OBD-I code reading how-to.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 70,838 Oil Change How-to.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 927,662 Pre-98 Headlight Removal.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 703,846 Wheel Bearing Replacement.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 703,877 Wheel Knuckle(HUB) Replacement.pdf
 
In the duratec performance section it has these links

11/08/2008 12:00AM 40,884 DMD(Dual Mode Damper) Install.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 60,093 Duratec Bolt-On Performance FAQ.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 46,440 Duratec Engine FAQ.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 49,956 Duratec SERIOUS Performance FAQ.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 470,901 Oil Pressure Gauge tapping how-to.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 47,713 SVT Intake Install.pdf
11/08/2008 12:00AM 39,574 UDP (Underdrive Pulley) Install.pdf

The only thing I could find here was in the Duratec serious performance FAQ. Its a link to the header removal how to, but the link doesn't work.
 
Oops sorry i thought you meant actually gutting them... I looked around for you, so many broken links + a ••••ty search results after forum upgrade = :blackeye: Needs sticky overhaul

Your right thought Tourige did have the how-to for the header install
 
No prob. I just found the same broken link here in the duratec forum too. Oh well. Might have to do a new write up or something. Anyone care to share their best and worst tips.

Looking around underneath, I can get to the bottom three nuts and the top one closest to the driver side. I'm guessing the other top two must be reached from the top.

What has to come off to get to those. Coil? Alt? Would taking the pass wheel well cover help?
 
quick progress update: took off the coil pack and the two retainer nuts that hold the wiring harness underneath. Moved the harness just enough to get my little girly hands within reach of all three top manifold nuts. Time to soak with pb blastr.
 
Ares said:
quick progress update: took off the coil pack and the two retainer nuts that hold the wiring harness underneath. Moved the harness just enough to get my little girly hands within reach of all three top manifold nuts. Time to soak with pb blastr.
Click to expand...

IIRC. You use along extension and go behind the subframe with it...and work the manifold bolts from there. Thats what stazi told me he did.
 
I have written up on here a few times how to do it. For the front manifold, it helps if you can get the fans out of the way, but it isnt necessary, you will get some bruised knuckles, just warning you. Subframe doesnt need to come down unless you are doing something else that requires dropping the subframe. That is much more work than just pulling the manifolds.

For the rear, you will need some long extensions and a U-joint. You go over the top of the subframe with your extensions, and reach back. The top right nut is right by the alternator, you will need about 2 feet of extension at least, a u-joint on the end, maybe a 3 inch extension(cant remember), then a deep socket.

For the middle one, I believe you can reach it with your socket, extensions, and u-joint. I know for certain the middle top nut is pretty well impossible to do without a wrench once you have the header in. You will need to reach in there as far as you can, a ratcheting wrench helps immensely.

For the left top nut, you should easily reach it just reaching up into there with a ratchet with the socket on the end.

The bottom nuts are much easier to reach, and by the time you figure out the top ones, the bottom will be common sense.

Make sure you unhook the EGR tube before you pull the nuts out. Might help to pull the whole thing out of your car so it is out of your way.

The manifold is VERY hard to squeeze out of the opening if the studs dont come out when you are taking the nuts off, but it is not impossible to get it out

Good luck with your installation, once you have done a few of them, they are pretty easy and you can get it done in just a couple hours. If you are fairly competent, it should take you anywhere between 4 and 8 hours, depending on how stuck nuts and studs are, and how many breaks you take for beer and cussing.
 
hey thanks, for the tips. Needed a good excuse to pick up some of these tools I need-long extensions, u joints, wrenches and what not.

lol at just drop the subframe and swap in a 3L while I'm at it. Even though it kind of makes sense.
 
Harrry said:
IIRC. You use along extension and go behind the subframe with it....
Click to expand...

A really good point. Behind the subframe, meaning between subframe and firewall. Going up from the otherside of the subframe does not give you enough of an angle at the top to work the socket over the stud. Managed to get the top middle and top pass side studs this way. Also got the o2 sensor off.

The EGR looks like its going to be a real pita though. How are you guys that have done this getting it off. Not really sure which fitting to loosen? The lower one at the cat or the upper fitting?
 
Ares said:
A really good point. Behind the subframe, meaning between subframe and firewall. Going up from the otherside of the subframe does not give you enough of an angle at the top to work the socket over the stud. Managed to get the top middle and top pass side studs this way. Also got the o2 sensor off.

The EGR looks like its going to be a real pita though. How are you guys that have done this getting it off. Not really sure which fitting to loosen? The lower one at the cat or the upper fitting?
Click to expand...

Yes, go over the top of the subframe between the subframe and firewall.

The egr you will have to remove at the cat, I can't say I remember off the top of my head what size wrench you need. You should be able to get a wrench back there and loosen it a little bit at a time. You can remove it from the intake manifold as well after you are done with that, just so the tube isnt in your way, but you will need to replace the gasket.

Good luck, you have the hardest part done, you are most of the way there.
 
Holy crap this is turning into a nightmare. I did get all six header bolts out so its hanging there right now. But there's no room to squeeze it out. The fitting at the cat will not cooperate at all, the top one did come off though. I broke two bolts getting the Y-pipe off. Decided I would unbolt the half shaft bracket to give myself a little more room to get the header out and stripped one of the two nuts that hold the bracket to the shaft. And now it almost looks like moving that bracket might not even help me that much. This sucks ass. I hope getting the header back on will go quicker but I seriously doubt it. :mad:
 
the header is smaller, and fits easier. The manifold is a real pain to get out, but you dont need to remove anything but bolts. You may try and remove the studs to give you more room, then it will come out much easier. The headers are much easier to get on as strange as it sounds though.
 
i literally just did mine last night, I had all my studs but two come out with my bolts so i guess i got really lucky! I had a buddy with a long screw driver help me pry the manifold off the remaining two studs and the header fits much easier, Still not the easiest fit though
 
FYI I thought I did a how-to a long time ago as well...

In any case you can get to the top bolts for the rear manifold a lot easier by just going through from the top side.
 
The studs are screwed into the block, correct? With a nut holding the manifold to the stud and block, I think. Would it be a good idea to use PB Blaster? I'm not sure EXACTLY how the header is secured to the block but one of you guys need to specifically tell me! I've also heard of undoing the front and rear roll restrictors to free up some room and allow the engine to kind of 'swing'.

Burning pre-cat smell along with the P0420 is starting to annoy me, lol.
 
I sprayed mine with Pb like crazy, The studs are in the block, For me almost all my studs came out with the nut, The header is held on by the nut, I did not remove anything but my oil filter and i was able to have them out and installed in about 7 hours, i used 2 8" extensions and one 3" extension I also used a u joint.
 
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