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Fuel Pump Removal Help

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bhiggs89

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Dec 23, 2007
Messages
706
Location
Peoria, IL
So we are trying to remove my fuel pump, to install the Focus pump. However we cannot get the fuel line connector off. We took it to a Ford dealership, and there technicians couldnt figure it out, the same with the Lincoln dealership, as well as a local mechanic.

We tried 4 different types of fuel line removal tools.

Here are the pictures:
0405001525a-1-1..jpg
0405001525-1-1..jpg

Any suggestions? Its a 2000 Returnless
 
Use a mirror and see if there is a small plastic ring shoved in there. This would prevent any of those "tools" from allowing you to disconnect the line. Also, the o-rings like to seize up in these connections so you may have to use PB blaster to loosen that sucker up. Next, wiggle (in and out, not back and forth..(that's what she said)) it a bit to break it free (but if you actually break it... well, just don't). Good luck
 
I believe you squeeze the tabs on the plastic piece and pull on the metal tube at the same time.
 
ok, leave the cover where it was in the original pictures and just squeeze the tabs on it (the end of the tabs closest to the pump assembly). you may have to rotate the cover a little to find the "sweet spot" and squeeze hard but thats all you have to do. I know this is correct as i just confirmed it on my 2000 SVT.

now, I wouldnt bother installing the Focus pump since its only a 155LPH pump, I believe the stock Contour pump is 190LPH. if you want a high flow returnless style pump get one for a Ford GT (the supercar) as its a 265LPH pump and is supposed to be a drop in for the Focus with just a connector splice.
 
Its the Focus SVT pump, I thought it was supposed to be better than the stock pump?

And thanks, I will try tomorrow.
 
the pump used in the SVTF isnt any different than any other 03-04 Zetec Focus pump, and all were 155LPH pumps. this has been confirmed by testing done on focaljet and by part number from Steve at Tousely.

I think people believe the SVTF pump is a 255LPH pump because the high power mustang guys would use them, however they would use 2 of them in order to provide enough fuel. the Mustang guys have since moved on to using 2 GT pumps.
 
You might have to use two hands (four fingers) to pinch all the tabs at once. It should pull off then.
 
I finally got back around to working on this, and got that little fuel line off, all you had to do is squeeze the black piece and push off, really quite simple.

But now I have several other questions, I am now installing a Ford GT pump, and am having some problems getting the pump to fit inside the old fuel pump assembly. The bottom and top of the pumps are different. Here are some pictures:

Picture of the bottom of both pumps. The new one (GT) is on the left, old one is on the right
0509001751-1..jpg

Here is the top of both pumps:
0509001751a-1..jpg

The new pump sits too high, and wont allow me to close the lid:
0509001754-1..jpg

The new pump also doesnt fill the opening completly like the old pump. Also the fitting that goes into the fuel line is smaller.
0509001753a-1..jpg

Bottom of fuel pump assembly. The old pump kind of rested in between the area that I marked. The new pump just sits on top of that area.
0509001750-1..jpg

My current fuel pump just died yesterday while driving, so I am doing this swap in an empty parking lot several miles from my house. I have more pictures if need be.

Thanks
 
Also, is this the updated fuel pump assembly? I dont see the "3 tabs" that you are supposed to remove if you are installing the updated one?

0509001801-1..jpg
 
you will have to remove the sock filter from the bottom of both pumps and reuse the one from the stock pump, just make sure to clean it real well with some brake clean first. that should allow the pump to sit down all the way and should be enough to close the assembly.


that is not the updated fuel pump assembly. the white-ish piece in the bottom is what the assembly attaches to and what has to be cut out for the updated assembly to be installed.
 
Ok, thanks. Will it effect anything if the new pump doesn't fill the opening in the top of the assembly like the old pump does? The new pump is a little skinnier.
 
We finished the pump install today. Not a simple task since the nipple on the stock pump is NOT the same size as the GT pump. This required a different hose and removing the top of the pump basket. We had to improvise.

We used about a foot of regular fuel pump hose to reroute the hose. We crimped new connectors and it started right up.

A few observations. One, there is no schrader valve in the top of the GT pump, so you will loose fuel pressure when you shut it off. It pumps so quickly however that you don't notice it when starting it up.

It is not a direct bolt on, it requires careful planning to make it work. Not difficult but just be careful.
 
Like my Dad stated, this was not a "direct" replacement, but went fairly smoothly for the most part.

After driving around for a day I have noticed 2 things about the pump. 1, without the schrader valve, it loses the fuel pressure everytime you turn the car off. 2, When cruising at low speeds the fuel pressure cycles from 25-30, causing a noticeable surging. I think this may have more to do with the way we installed it, than the actual pump.

This pump is quite impressive, the old pump would reach max duty cycle at 4K rpms under WOT, this pump stays around 70% at WOT. The car pulls a lot stronger up top now.

Now I just need a 3L to help with the low end torque......
 
wow if the dealer couldn't figure it out, you should have asked if they were SVT certified. i replaced mine without any knowledge in an hour! it was easy for me and got my non running svt started the next day i bought it. i have a return style fuel pump..i just said WTF and did it myself. i didn't have any problems. PM me if you need help.
 
SICILIANSVT82 said:
wow if the dealer couldn't figure it out, you should have asked if they were SVT certified. i replaced mine without any knowledge in an hour! it was easy for me and got my non running svt started the next day i bought it. i have a return style fuel pump..i just said WTF and did it myself. i didn't have any problems. PM me if you need help.
Click to expand...


Do you mean the stock pump, or the GT40 pump? The stock pump would be a breeze. If you are talking about the GT40 pump then we are all ears....
 
striker2 said:
ok, leave the cover where it was in the original pictures and just squeeze the tabs on it (the end of the tabs closest to the pump assembly). you may have to rotate the cover a little to find the "sweet spot" and squeeze hard but thats all you have to do. I know this is correct as i just confirmed it on my 2000 SVT.
Click to expand...
I've hit the same problem. Only, I broke mine so now I need to do this correctly on a salvage yard car. You're saying that squeezing just the two tabs on the outer black cover is enough, even though the retainer has four tabs?
 
kger said:
I've hit the same problem. Only, I broke mine so now I need to do this correctly on a salvage yard car. You're saying that squeezing just the two tabs on the outer black cover is enough, even though the retainer has four tabs?
Click to expand...

Yes, it takes some wiggling around and such, but squeezing them together is what takes it off.
 
Drat! The black outer cover is missing from the donor car. Squeezing the tabs on that essentially squeezed the circular portion of the keeper, and not directly on any of the four tabs, correct? I'm wondering if I should try some skinny needle nose pliers to effect the same action. Another I idea I had is to use two long screwdrivers held parallel, shafts against the end of the fuel line (from above and below), and try to use leverage against the top of the fuel pump to push the line back away from the pump.

Or maybe a mini hacksaw to cut the fuel pump nub and fuel line, if the salvage yard doesn't care about me hacking up other parts of the car. Being able to work with it without the space restrictions of the factory access hole should help considerably.
 
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