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FSVT front brake upgrade for CSVT
- Thread starter Kresnik
- Start date
B3NN3TT
Hard-core CEG'er
You can use the calipers and brackets you already have; they are arguably better, because they have a larger piston bore than the Focus calipers. All you need is the Focus rotors and a pair of adapters to move your brackets out far enough to fit the big rotors in there.
But think about upgrading the rear brakes as well, because this will throw off the balance way more to the front bias.
But think about upgrading the rear brakes as well, because this will throw off the balance way more to the front bias.
I hope to upgrade the rears soon as well too. The Problem is that I've warped maybe 2 or 3 sets of rotors in 3-4 years. I have never warped rotors so quickly on anything else that i've owned, and it seems that placing a bigger rotor in there to better deal with the heat will help a bit. I hope to also find some brembo rotors as well, those seem to last a long time with out warping, cracking and/or going to •••• some other way.
Do you have any suggestions of good rotors to get? I got the 'premium' rotors from napa and autozone, and they don't seem to last very long.
Where could I pick up the spacers?
Thanks!
Do you have any suggestions of good rotors to get? I got the 'premium' rotors from napa and autozone, and they don't seem to last very long.
Where could I pick up the spacers?
Thanks!
Hey Kresnick, it is very rare to actually warp rotors unless you are racing.
When i had all the symptoms of warped rotors, i did some searching online and found a very helpful post on another car site that gave an explaination for my problems.
It said that if you have a sticky caliper/piston, when you park the car, the hot brake pad sticks to the rotor and leaves a tell tale outline on the rotor . When you drive the car next, the brake pad lining mark then causes vibration felt through the brake pedal, similar to warping.
Worth a check, and cheaper than endless pairs of rotors .... G.
B3NN3TT
Hard-core CEG'er
Nautilus Performance sells the adapters.
The driver side caliper was sticking for certain, though I am not certain about the passenger side.
One of the slide boots was ripped and both slides had a bit of dirt and build up on 'em. I cleaned 'em off, installed new slide boots and cleaned off the the rust around the eye-holes of the caliper so that the pin isn't pinched too tightly. I packed it with grease and the slide seems - okay - now, but not as smooth as I believe that it should be. That side of the car had only a slight warp to the rotor. The rotor was turned this past summer, about 5,000 miles ago. It would drag in one spot against the caliper bracket.
The passenger side rotor, on the other hand, was very visibly warped and would _DRAG_ against the caliper bracket; no wonder why I heard such a loud metallic scrap while not under load! The inside of the rotor was pretty beat up and looks like it had a good 10 years of abuse on it; it was also turned this past summer, about 5,000 miles ago. Interestingly enough, the slide pins felt pretty smooth.
Both rotors were in good thickness after turning, so they had plenty of meat to 'em. Both sides had the springs in tact to hold the caliper up (if that matters or not); though I am wondering if my warpage wasn't simply due to an undersized rotor (which I _am_ familiar with from owning/racing a Probe), but rather two ••••ty and sticky calipers up front.
Thanks for the feed-back about the warpage 'like' Effect, Gorman. Seems reasonable that my calipers are on the fritz.
I'll check out those brackets from NPG, thanks Andy Bennett!
Kresnik
Seems reasonable that my calipers are on the fritz.
you could also check that the piston doesn't have a build up of lining material around the piston seal ... a dirty ring. Disassemble the brakes and pump the piston out (not too far) to get a good look.
Do you have uneven tire wear ? .... G.