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Front Tubular Control Arms

R

RichR

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
422
Location
Connecticut
Finally got around last week to make it up to AirCougars to try out the first prototype set of Tubular control arms.






The front end feels a lot more solid then my stock OEM arms that had less then 8K on them.
 
dont know that im a fan of having the ball joint recessed like that. i was hoping to have a bit straighter going into the sub frame so that you could get some camber out of it. might be able to get some caster out of this but thats not what the front needs
 
I actually have a question. Where the joints are, do those go bad and how do they go bad if they do? I'm going through control arm bushings because, well, I'm super low. Should I just suck up the cost of an OEM arm and change it out every year? Or will I benefit from these arms/joints to where I'm not blowing through the bushings and causing some pops here and there?
 
i have a heim joint that went bad in my stangkiller arms that i have to replace now, so yes they go bad, not as often but they do
 
rexxdoggy said:
I actually have a question. Where the joints are, do those go bad and how do they go bad if they do? I'm going through control arm bushings because, well, I'm super low. Should I just suck up the cost of an OEM arm and change it out every year? Or will I benefit from these arms/joints to where I'm not blowing through the bushings and causing some pops here and there?
Click to expand...

The ride is stiffer, the ride quality feels more solid.



jaged said:
i have a heim joint that went bad in my stangkiller arms that i have to replace now, so yes they go bad, not as often but they do
Click to expand...

Correct
 
jaged said:
i have a heim joint that went bad in my stangkiller arms that i have to replace now, so yes they go bad, not as often but they do
Click to expand...

By any chance do you have the dimensions or a part # on those rod ends? Mine are making some noise and I'd like to swap them out for some Aurora's but this is my only vehicle and obviously I can't run it without LCAs.
 
i havent had the time to take it apart yet, a 7 month old, work, and classes 3 nights a week keep me busy. ill post something about them when i get to replacing them
 
jaged said:
dont know that im a fan of having the ball joint recessed like that. i was hoping to have a bit straighter going into the sub frame so that you could get some camber out of it. might be able to get some caster out of this but thats not what the front needs
Click to expand...
Preface: Just some observations from an old suspension hack, not an attack.

Indeed, an arm with straight entries into the subframe pickup points would give easier and wider adjustability of camber and caster. The angled entries for the rod ends makes it more difficult to align, as the center-to-center distance of the rod end balls changes with even small adjustments, and this distance must remain constant.

The biggest issue with a straight entry a-arm would be clearance to the wheels at full lock, haven't measured this on our cars, but in eyeballing it, it doesn't look like an issue unless you're running stupid-wide wheels, and even then, the tires would probably hit the inner fenders first.
geometry_corrected_tubular_a-arms_67-72_dodge_a-bodyproducts578promo_pic.jpg


From a rod-end standpoint, make sure you're using high quality, high strength, Teflon-lined ends, Aurora and QA-1 come to mind. This is a mission-critical suspension component, if a garbage grade rod end breaks, it's going to ruin your day.

I've used Seals-It rod end seals on other projects, they help keep water and road debris out of rod ends that find their way into street cars, where they don't get inspected and replaced as often as they ought to. They're not perfect, but they help. I used these on the Massive rear toe links I have on my Contour.
http://www.sealsit.com/rodend.asp
 
Having adjustability at the bottom just increases the chances for pinching the cv together. Or at least the amount you need adjusted.
 
Beans said:
Having adjustability at the bottom just increases the chances for pinching the cv together. Or at least the amount you need adjusted.
Click to expand...
Maybe, but having the ability to add a few degrees of negative camber for a dedicated track car wouldn't hurt, unless you're willing to do this:
03-08-13-05.jpg


Now, if you screw out the rod ends on the Stangkiller A-arms to try to increase the negative camber, the ball bores will quickly get too far apart and they won't fit the hole spacing in the subframe, so, due to their design, you're pretty much stuck with the geometry they're built-to. I suspect the fellow who builds these knows this, but some folks will look at these and think "Oooo, now I can adjust this and that..." Well, not so much, actually.
 
Yes, you're correct they will not turn much before they no longer align with the holes on the subframe, if you search for stangkiller arms there is a lengthy discussion on the topic. However, Warmonger, IIRC, did some quick calculation and came up with a .75 degree change in camber with only a 1/4" change in length, which is very substantial.

However, I'd personally be happier if they were made slightly shorter to allow for enough change in camber to correct the negative camber I'm experiencing as a result of the lowering, I ate through the inside of my drivers side tire (BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Comp 2's, 340 treadwear) in roughly 1,500 miles, and the passenger side insides are only slightly better.
 
Did a quick search to come up with something since my rod ends are shot, and came up with this thread. http://www.newcougar.org/forums/suspension-performance/148469-rod-ends-stangkiller-lcas.html

Apparently the Stangkiller LCAs came with Aurora CM-12T rod ends with a male 3/4" shank and 3/4"-16 RH threads. Personally I'll be going with their AM-12T teflon lined, high quality pieces instead of the "economy" series listed in that thread, however, they seem to cost around $53/per and some might not want to invest that.
 
you know what, i just assumed that, i didnt check it........thats what happens when you rush. there are on the tubular toe arms, thats why i thought that
 
sooo both the drivers side are RH threads. i doubt the passengers side is both left hand, but it could be. i dont have that side apart, but i can look at tomorrow when it goes back together.

my LH threads are on back order so it might work out for me lol
 
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