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Engine Coolant Gauge

K

KennyT772

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
842
Mine doesn't work. I just replaced the sensor itself on the block, but I have the same problem. Every now and then the gauge will work correctly, and then quit a few moment later.

I know it is in the wiring so where should I look? I know the connector is firmly attached to the sensor, but the plastic clip is broken. Any help is much appreciated.
 
Has the thermostat been replaced? Could be sticking. Is the gauge itself working properly?
 
Last edited:
It isn't in the thermostat, as that wouldn't cause the gauge to work or not work. When the gauge isn't working it just sits way past cold as if the ignition was off. I'm going to go junkyard diving and see if I can get a new connector pigtail, to replace the connector with a broken clip.
 
I think Todras was implying that the thermostat is stuck open and the car is not heating up and thus the needle is not moving off of cold (I have this issue with my beater car). Perhaps another question would be, does you car have heat (hot air coming out of vents)? I'm guessing that being from MI, this time of year, you probably would have stated that the heats not working either in your original post... :D

Chris
 
I have warmth from the vents in about 4 minutes, and high heat in 9. Motor block is warm too, as is coolant.

A sticking themostat wouldn't cause the engine to heat up to operating temp then go back to ambient temp. As I said before sometimes the gauge does work, and the needle will warm up, but it drops back to cold after a few minutes of driving.
 
The housings for the temp sensor for the fans and temp sender for the gauge look very similar. Once you pull them out, you'll see the differences.

Temp sensor:

5S1513.jpg


Temp sender:

1T1117.jpg
 
your maker said:
this sensor is pain in the ass. it happens a lot.
Click to expand...
its actually not that hard to change. take a 1/2 drive ratchet and the correct size socket and it all just barely fits down under the battery tray enough that you can remove the sender. If you have the new one ready you can do it without losing too much coolant.
 
Got the sender in yesturday. Along with that I put in a new serp belt, the old one was stretched bad and cracked worse. Now I just need to figure out why I have a sporadic ticking noise in the timing belt area. I'm thinking its a tensioner but I'm not sure.
 
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