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Cv Axle Max Hp....

S

svttour

Rico Suave
Joined
Aug 13, 2001
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MIAMI
What is the most hp stock axles can hold up to. I want to know if its safe to run boosted before upgrading the axles. Or should I do it right away?
 
I run a daily 350+ wheels, (325+ ft/lbs btw).

Burrita is running that plus some on his. edit: I guess a little worrying won't hurt

Now, that isn't to say that people HAVEN'T stripped or broken the axle.. they have.. but it isn't "simply" from the power.
 
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svttour said:
What is the most hp stock axles can hold up to. I want to know if its safe to run boosted before upgrading the axles. Or should I do it right away?
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200....or 100hp each? :shrug: I wore mine out with my 3L and when I put in my turbo it exacerbated the problem. On the other hand they had some miles on them anyway.
I never sheared any though so in that respect it depends on your launch. They obviously held over 350+ wHP on the dyno without breaking. With the clamps the tires grip the rollers well, then the operator nails the gas pedal and whatever torque it produces is delivered through the axles. So that is about 350 ft/lbs on stock axles with no breakage.
 
Here is the reason why I asked. Hard launch at the track on the 5th run. Sheered it right in 2. I just hope I can have them hold up untill I can afford the stage 2 axles when I install the turbo.


IMG_0017.jpg
 
Yeah well a hard shocking launch with reinforced mounts can deliver a hell of a shock to the axle. Metal strength is not just measured in the amount of a load it can take but also in impact loading.

load applied per unit of time. Like slowly stacking rocks on a glass table until maybe a hundred pounds later it cracks, versus just dropping a small one pound rock on it. Rapid loading cracks metal.

For our cars I don't like a sudden clutch drop which will shear an axle, I like a slipped-clutch-launch from medium to high rpm. Also the poly filled rear mounts GREATLY increase the likelihood of a broken axle due to driveline shock. I find no real improvement in wheel hop resistance with a filled mount versus a NEW or in good shape OEM rear mount. Now the front mount is a piece of junk and the Energy suspension poly inserts helped wheel hop and general launches a whole heck of a lot. I tested all these mods before and after and that is my best assessment.
 
I have all OEM mounts and Energy suspension inserts in th front mount, Quaife in the trans.
 
warmonger said:
I find no real improvement in wheel hop resistance with a filled mount versus a NEW or in good shape OEM rear mount. Now the front mount is a piece of junk and the Energy suspension poly inserts helped wheel hop and general launches a whole heck of a lot. I tested all these mods before and after and that is my best assessment.
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Would you reccomend drilling holes in a solid poly(94a) rear roll resistor? If so, how many and in what pattern? What about a filled front mount? Leave it alone?
 
muntus said:
Would you reccomend drilling holes in a solid poly(94a) rear roll resistor? If so, how many and in what pattern? What about a filled front mount? Leave it alone?
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I believe it would just be better to upgrade to an SVT rear roll resistor if you do that since it has exactly what your talking about.
 
No im saying the stock svt rear roll resistor already has holes drilled in it. Your end product is basically going to end up being like an svt roll resistor if you drill holes in the poly filled one. I cant see the different being that great between a stock svt R.R. and a mount with 94A cut with holes like the svt mount.
 
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Basically, I want to make my poly filled rear roll resistor behave like an improved regular mount. I imagine that, even though a drilled poly mount may look like the regular one, the stiffness of the 94a will be quite an improvement over it's rubber counterpart, while at the same time, providing increased stiffness without all the NVH associated with the solid mounts.

I'm not looking to eliminate wheel hop, but an improvement might be nice. Perhaps I will install the front filled mount for the time being and see where to go from there. NVH wouldn't be that big of a deal, but after seeing svttour's picture of the sheered axle, I wouldn't mind decreasing the likelyhood of both.
 
The poly is still a lot stiffer so I dont' think it would help much.

I think if you took a stock new mount and filled all the empty holes with 94shore urethane you would stiffen the stock mount up because it could not flex the holes anymore. It would still be less stiff than a solid mount though because the base rubber of the mount was normal and not poly. Sort of like the front mount with ES inserts.
 
It's not the HP level but the intial shock load that running sticky tires on a good surface can give you. A stock car can shear the axles if the tires hook up and it is launched with any serious rpm. Most cars just over power the traction before it shocks the driveline enough to do any damage. Also the stock differential normally goes out before the stock axles when it comes to "shock" load. :blackeye:
 
I Used To Snap Axels Left And Righ.t I Stopped CountING After About Six. With The Stock Setup .IT Mainly Only Happend WheN Really Beating On The Car Off The Line Like 3-3,500 Rpm And Dumping The Clutch. At The Time I HaD 17" Wheels In A 225-45-17 Off A Wrx Sti Bridgestone Pole Position S0-3 I Think Very Sticky Tire And I Would Always Break Axels And Later The Differential.

So I Dropped $3k Into A Fully Re- " Built " Tranny . New Everything Focus Shift Forks , Torsen T-2 Lsd , Spec Stage One Clutch.

Took The Car That Weekebd To The Track And On The First Run About 20 Feet Out Of The Gate. Driver Side Axel Spindial Snaps Again. THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM YOUR HAVING THE IN THE PICS. BEEFIER AXEL ONLY MAKE THE BAR BETWEEN THE HUB STRONGER IF AT ALL AND THE HUB AND SPINDAIL REMAINS THE SAME AS OEM. IT JUST LIGHTENS YOUR POCKET.

I've Found That Launching The Car Just Eats Up Diff's And Snaps Axel On Sticky Tires. Now I Have The Stock Bf Goodrich KdwS In A 215-50-16 And The Tires Spin Instead OF Snaping Axels. Main Thing Is Not Launching It Hard. These Are Not Drag Cars. Slip The Clutch A Bit Off The Line And You'll Be Fine. OR JUST GET IT ROLLING BEFORE YOU GIVE IT HELL .I Dont See Why " New " Oem Stock Axel Would Have A Problem Supporting 400+whp If Driven Propperly
 
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