Custom Oil Catch Can for under $50, but full of awesomeness

[CSVT#49]

Alright well it does require you to have a welder and some decent tools for part of it but...

Here are the details for the oil catch can that I talked about a few months ago that I said I was going to build.

x1 1/4" NPT Mini Air Filter (water separator)
x1 large camping water tight storage container
x1 pan drain plug
x1 custom stainless steel baffle stand off
x2 NPT barb fittings of your choice
x1 rubber seal and some gasket maker
x4 #4-40 machine screws, washers, and nuts

total cost = $45.10, plus some stainless steel and a bunch of labor

I ended up with this piece of awesomeness. You'll notice the blue will match my Samco Hoses perfectly. The water tight container is smoked, but transparent enough where you can see it filling up. The drain plugs on the bottom allows for quick drains as well. However if you wanted to clean the whole thing out it can be taken apart in just a few minutes and reassembled just as easily with some teflon tape.

I guess if there is enough interest I could reproduce these, but it's a lot of screwing around. Especially with the baffle piece. I think it took me about 3 hours to put this thing together after I had all the parts. However this should perform just as good as those $300 oil catch cans at 1/6-1/4 of the cost.

You'll see that I have a line installed on one end with a cap on the other. I did this so that I could pressure test it for leaks.

 

[blu_fuz]

Why the baffle?


Looks pretty good.

 

[jaged]

are you baffled by the baffle?

my guess is just to keep it from sloshing around so much

looks good

 

[CSVT#49]

/\
That

and to prevent oil from clogging up the filter element.

 

[2000ZxT]

This would be ok for a N/A car, you are going to need way more airflow to vent a turbo motor. Also if you don't have it going to atom you need two catch cans, one for in boost venting one when the motor is pulling vacuum. Don't know what route you are going but you need more venting.

 

[CSVT#49]

This would be ok for a N/A car, you are going to need way more airflow to vent a turbo motor. Also if you don't have it going to atom you need two catch cans, one for in boost venting one when the motor is pulling vacuum. Don't know what route you are going but you need more venting.

While I respect your opinion, I disagree. Not to mention in a MAF system you never want to vent to atmosphere as you would be allowing metered air to leave the system. The blow off valve is a recirc setup and will put it back into the inlet of the turbo ahead of the MAF.

If for some reason I find that it is not enough, I'll make sure to install my electric vacuum pump to provide assistance in venting. Then if that is still not enough I'll put a vent port into the cover plate between the heads and vent that to the catch can.

 

[2000ZxT]

Running your blow by from your crankcase to atom is going to mess up your maf reading? I dont think you understood what I was saying.

Im saying it looks like you are running a standard pcv setup. Case -> can -> intake tract.

With that setup, when you develop boost, you need to shut that PCV line off, as to not pressure the crankcase, so you need two catch cans. Not only that, I am saying you need at least (1) 3/4" line venting your block (prefferably 2) or (2) 5/8" lines. It looks like you have (1) 1/2" or so. The blowby does no create much pressure in the crank case, so you need a lot of surface area in those tubes to let it out as easily as possible without choking up and causing pressure in that crank. Blow by with a turbo car is absolutely insurmountable compared to a naturally aspirated car.

The vacuum pump you speak of isn't a true vacuum pump, its only made to boost brakes on electric cars. I do not think it's going to work as a true vacuum pump. Honeslty, thought about it as well on my Audi, but I will be doing a Moroso mechanical drive vacuum pump with an oil sprayer. According to the Moroso reps, with the sprayer, they think the pump will last up to three years, daily driven, I was sold.