OK I have a 2000 Ford Contour 4cyl ATX. This vehicle has 178xxx miles on it. I have an intermittent stalling problem. The vehicle stalls when slowing down for a stop sign or slowing for a turn. Does not seem to be temp related. I also have a slight surge which is constant at highway speed 60-65mph. The other day it got really bad and surged hard at 60mph and the speedo went from 60 down to 50 and back to 60. I let of the accelerator and my speed was 60mph surged again with the same result as stated above with the crazy speedo. Did this 3 times while I wasn't even touching the accelerator, then it was fine. I did a search on here and it sounds like it could be a VSS issue?? The CEL is not on and has not come on during these events. What do you think?? Thanks for any input.
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Crazy Speedo and Surge
- Thread starter SaturnLvr
- Start date
If it is the Vehicle Speed Sensor, the "OD Off" light will flash. Are they any CEL codes? It could be the Manual Lever Position Sensor (aka Transmission Range Sensor) too.
Check the wiring and connector first to make sure that is not the problem.
Check the wiring and connector first to make sure that is not the problem.
The O.D. Light does not flash. I will check to see if there are any stored codes tomorrow and post them here. I did notice today when my Contour stalled in the driveway, it has been stalling all day long ever time I come to a stop, that there is a buzzing noise under the hood. When it stalled in the driveway I left the key in the "run" position and put it in park. I popped the hood and the buzzing sound is coming from around the air cleaner assembly, possibly the top of the transmission case. It was very hard to pinpoint where it was coming from. Any thoughts?
The MLPS is right below the left side of the battery. You should be able to see it when the hood is propped. It does sound like a failing MLPS but the VSS could be a problem too.
When my VSS failed, I had no 4th gear, very hard and irratic shifting.
When my VSS failed, I had no 4th gear, very hard and irratic shifting.
O.K. does anyone know what the testing procedure is for the VSS? Are there specs for resistance, voltage, etc? How about testing the MLPS? Any ideas why this would make a buzzing noise (if that is where the buzzing is coming from)? Anyone ever experience this before? Thanks.
Check the MLPS connector and wiring first. If that is fine, you may want to consider changing the MLPS.
The link for "MLPS change" has instructions. manualleverposition autozonelink
MLPS change
Cable below tranny shift lever
And from Autozone
The link for "MLPS change" has instructions. manualleverposition autozonelink
MLPS change
Cable below tranny shift lever
And from Autozone
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I took a look at my MLPS today. I removed the connector and all of the pins are nice and clean. All of the wires are nice and pliable, no cracking. I blew out some dust from the MLPS connector, dust was black in color, and then reconnected. My MLPS is all metal with the part number that looks like FSRP-7F293-AA. If it dies again I will check to see if the buzzing noise is coming from the MLPS now that I know what I am looking for. I also will check for price/availability at Ford tomorrrow and have the codes scanned (if there are any) at AutoZone.
Went to Autozone yesterday, no codes stored. Today I woke up and jumped in the car to go to work, about 80 degrees out, and the car started but sputtered really bad. Sounded like it was going to stall but it didn't. Put it in reverse and it stalled. Started back up and sputtered and then seemed to clear up. On my way to work it stalled everytime I stopped.
I went to start it back up after it had stalled about six times and noticed the key was really hot. I touched the ignition lock cylinder and it was so hot I couldn't keep my finger on it. When I turned the key there was a noticeable lack of resistance for the first 1/8-1/4 inch of turning the key. I turned it back and forth from the off to run positions and the "normal resistance" came back after a couple of times. After that the car ran fine.
Is this a coincidence? What would make the Ignition lock cylinder get so hot? Any thoughts?
I went to start it back up after it had stalled about six times and noticed the key was really hot. I touched the ignition lock cylinder and it was so hot I couldn't keep my finger on it. When I turned the key there was a noticeable lack of resistance for the first 1/8-1/4 inch of turning the key. I turned it back and forth from the off to run positions and the "normal resistance" came back after a couple of times. After that the car ran fine.
Is this a coincidence? What would make the Ignition lock cylinder get so hot? Any thoughts?
SVT_Fan
CEG'er
Whenever I hear "stall" I think of air + fuel. Since no codes were thrown, you likely do not have a sensor issue. However, your last thread on the hot ignition key threw me off a bit. If it is an electrical issue (heat switch) then you should have blown a fuse. I'd check that first.
I suggest you then look into the "air" portion above -- since its easier than fuel. I'd first disconnect the EGR vacuum line. You can drive without it connected but you'll eventually get a MIL b/c EGR is an emission component. The EGR recirculates exhaust back into the intake manifold - which lowers the peak combustion temperature and provides cleaner exhaust. However, the EGR affects combusion stability and it is only introduced in specific engine speed/load ranges. If the EGR is stuck open, you will be introducint recirculated exhaust into the intake outside of these specific ranges -- which can cause you to stall.
However, a stuck open EGR should flip a MIL. So I would then check your IAC. There is a recent thread regarding an IAC issue on a 2.5L. I would remove the IAC & clean with carb cleaner.
Hopefully these "easy" fixes will identify your root cause....b/c the approach I would take next gets more difficult (proving out your sensors & confirming fuel delivery robustness). Good luck!
I suggest you then look into the "air" portion above -- since its easier than fuel. I'd first disconnect the EGR vacuum line. You can drive without it connected but you'll eventually get a MIL b/c EGR is an emission component. The EGR recirculates exhaust back into the intake manifold - which lowers the peak combustion temperature and provides cleaner exhaust. However, the EGR affects combusion stability and it is only introduced in specific engine speed/load ranges. If the EGR is stuck open, you will be introducint recirculated exhaust into the intake outside of these specific ranges -- which can cause you to stall.
However, a stuck open EGR should flip a MIL. So I would then check your IAC. There is a recent thread regarding an IAC issue on a 2.5L. I would remove the IAC & clean with carb cleaner.
Hopefully these "easy" fixes will identify your root cause....b/c the approach I would take next gets more difficult (proving out your sensors & confirming fuel delivery robustness). Good luck!
Thanks for the input but this is a 2.0L VCT which does not have an EGR valve...so that does not apply in this case. I did replace the IAC about 15,000 miles ago with a new one, so I wouldn't think that would be the problem. I have had vacuum leaks in the past with this Contour and it has always thrown a code.
I am leaning toward some type of mechanical problem since there were no codes. The hot ignition cylinder really has me puzzled. Why would the ignition lock cylinder get so hot you couldn't touch it? I am going to pull off the column cover and take a look...
I am leaning toward some type of mechanical problem since there were no codes. The hot ignition cylinder really has me puzzled. Why would the ignition lock cylinder get so hot you couldn't touch it? I am going to pull off the column cover and take a look...
O.K. so the Contour has been running great for the last two days with no problems, until today. I have not had a chance to take off the column cover to inspect the ignition lock cylinder, but I will. Tonight the Contour was running like a champ, I stopped and picked up the mail from the mailbox and kept the Contour running. While it was idling I was looking through the mail and it just stalled, just as if you turned off the key. I checked the ignition lock cylinder and it was cold, not even warm, so I am thinking that may not have anything to do with the stalling. I don't even know where to start now. Any other thoughts????