Cost to do port match

[m1a rocks]

I was wondering if anyone out there thats done a few 3.0 port match jobs might give me an idea on what they think a fair price would be to charge someone for it. I may be doing it for someone.
I've got experience in other head porting work. This would be my first 3.0 port match and wanted to give him a fair price.
Thanks, Brian..........

 

[Beans]

Well, if you are using the bugzuki plates, add that to cost... And i have never ported a head before and it took me probably 6-7 hours to get it to SVT spec. :shrug: Hope that helps

 

[svttour]

1 million dollars.

 

[m1a rocks]

A million eh? Hummm...........

 

[blu_fuz]

4-6 hrs at $55 pr hr.

 

[AliasJerk]

I think Joe has it down. Its not difficult work, just tedious, plus you have to take into account how many grinding bits you are going to need to purchase, and the bugzuki plates, and how long you are going to be standing over the engine grinding the mofo out.

 

[elraido]

I think Joe has it down. Its not difficult work, just tedious, plus you have to take into account how many grinding bits you are going to need to purchase, and the bugzuki plates, and how long you are going to be standing over the engine grinding the mofo out.

That is one reason why Pud says go full 3.0L. Quicker and normally cheaper in the end with the same, if not more, power.

 

[FIND]

Their firstborn child.

 

[m1a rocks]

Yea, ok. I believe I have my engine sold. I was going to go sreaight 3.0 if if put it in my car. The person buying the engine is looking to do a port match.
i have done a little port work on steel heads. I thought that I would consider doing it for him on the engine before he picks it up. I don't think doing aluminum would be as easy as steel, the bits I hear will really clog up with the aluminum. I've heard to keep the bit oled to help keep it free of aluminum. Cananyone confirm this.
Thanks, Brian........................

 

[blu_fuz]

From my thread post #138: http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?t=31579&page=4

This is what I did with a tiny ball shaped carbide bur bit. It was horribly slow and way too small for taking out as much metal as I needed to.:

Then I got this sweet set of bits from a friend of mine to borrow. Needless to say, having the right tools makes a world of difference.
I hogged out this 1/2 of the port in 2 minutes to show you guys some progress. I took it down to about 95% so all I have to do is polish/finish the ports smooth. I would grind for about 30 sec, dip it in motorcycle gear/motor oil, let some drip onto the area I was porting and grind away.

This is super easy. Get some good lighting and take your time sweeping the bit so you don't dig in. Any damage you think you might have done most likely can be fixed. If it starts to jump around on you hold onto the die grinder a little tighter and don't push so hard

2 minutes of grinding with this one bit:

You can see the tiny bit I started porting with laying in the case:

P.S. Bugzuki, I love you for making these plates. I would say these are a must for beginner porters....

 

[blu_fuz]

Post #150:

I finished the porting today.
Grand total porting and semi-polished 3 hrs. Pretty easy to do for beginners IMO.
One tip I havn't read yet is to take a new razor blade and run it along the flat machined surface of the intake inlets to remove the "lip" the porting created on each port. I took a pic showing what I mean, just in case someone doesn't understand . This will ensure that the bugzukie plates you use will sit flat and not create a air leak.

I also got a chance to powder coat my many brackets, crossover tubes, etc.. They are not all done yet, but most are
Say hello to my "eggplant" powder coated parts thus far. They might look black, but I assure you they are almost an exact match to midnight red but without any flake.

 

[m1a rocks]

Thanks for the pics Joey. I remenber loking at your thread a few timew back when I wa doing a lot of research on the process. You make it sound pretty simple.
Let me ask you something. How would you charge someone to do the port work. I'm just trying to come up with a fair price to do the work for him. I'm not really trying to make a buck on the deal, I just don't want to spenda few days doing the work for him when I have a lot of other things that I need to be doing. Such as getting this darn 2.5 in the car!
Thanks a gain for the pics, its good to see them again...........Brian.....

 

[blu_fuz]

Using the same method I did, I would charge him $200 if you think your time & tools are worth $55 an hour.

If not and you just want $20 an hour that will get you a few meals anyway :shrug:. I would probably shoot for $150-200. $150 is fair.

 

[Blackcoog]

Any garage or shop charges well over $80/hr. Time depends on your porting bits and the die grinder or drill you are using. You should really use bits designed for porting aluminum, i.e. non ferrous bits. I originally started out using the bits like those shown in the pictures above and they clog up pretty quick even if you keep them oiled. I was constantly stopping to pick out aluminum chunks. Speed of the bit may also be a factor. I use a nice die grinder running at high rpms which makes clogging more of a problem if you aren't using the right bit. Using normal steel cutting bits can take well over 2 hours a head. The right type of bit can make it take less than an hour a head. Keep in mind you need to be extra careful to tape up everything, stuff the ports to keep material from getting down by the valves, you may want to JB weld the plates to the heads, and then there is a lot of vacuuming when finished.

$250-300 is pretty fair in my opinion. If you have a professional shop do the same thing and I'd bet they'd still charge more than that.

 

[m1a rocks]

Thanks. Now I'm getting some idea what to charge. I threw $50.00 out there, then after thinking for a minute I thought, what am I, nuts?

Hey blackcoog, anything special to look for in the way of aluminum bits? I've got quite a few bits designed for steel. I don't like the idea of filling them up with aluminum. I am going to check a few places for something that will work better with aluminum.
I have a nice Mikita electric die grinder with a variable speed. It's pretty nice. I like it better than my air die grinder. I also already have a set(3) of buzinski plates, I know its spelled wrong.
The person who is buying my 3.0 wants to do a port match. I thought I'd help him out and possible do the work for him, but I'm not going to do it for nothing. I'm sure it's going to be a bit of work.
I think most machine shops would want the heads removed. Then you've got $100 in head gaskets and also new head bolts. Mess with the timming, camshafts, I believe also have to be removed going that route.
Anyone out there in Ohio who might be interested in doing the porting work for him if I pass on it?

 

[PurdySVT]

Brian,

Blu_Fuz and Blackcoog are right with the right bits porting is not a big deal especially with the Bugzuki plates.


but yeah I think I spent 4 to 6 hours doing mine but I only had one bit that worked well and it broke....... but with your porting experience and bit selection I'm sure you will do fine.

 

[m1a rocks]

Thanks Neal. If this engine deal goes through, we'll see. I need to get my butt in gear on that darn 2.5. Still not in yet.
I did however get that Mustang skeleton taken away today. A little picking up and the leaf blower and now my yards no longer looking soo getto! I am currently in search of a tractor that won't cost me an arm and a leg. I just missed a great deal yesterday. It need clutch work. Kinda like looking for a svt with a blown engine for cheap......
Brian.............
Oh yea, don't it figure. My sons supposed to take the 79' stang to the dragway Sat., it developed a "condition yesterday. I think it may be the fuel pump. I gotta get that thing done real quick!!!!!!!!!!!