• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

changing clutch

S

stocksvtcontour

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
166
Location
warren mi
I looked everywhere for a how to change clutch. I have a hayes manual but was hoping someone here had recorded it.....is it hard to change in this car?
On my way to work my clutch started slipping in me 2000svt, It has 93k and is completely stock. I figure I will get an oem clutch as I don't plan to go to a 3l until the motor wears out.

When you take out the clutch do you have to drop the entire tranny? Does it have a external or slave cly? I have never replaced a clutch, Do these have clutch master cly too? should that be replaced when I change the clutch? Should I have the flywheel machined?
Sorry for my inexperience in this. I am usually mechanically inclined
thanks
Joe
 
Whether you pull the engine and trans from the top, or drop the subframe and pull off the tranny, it is quite a job. It will take a good day or two if you have never done it before. It is quite a pain. You should defenitly get your flywheel resurfaced! There are a ton of places around us that resurface flywheels (about $30). OEM is always a good option, but so is spec stage 1 for the price! That is what I used last spring when I went through the same situation... although I bought the car with the clutch competely toast. Spec stage 1 clutch cost me under $300 including shipping from SVTcuervo. It bites alot harder then stock, but feels like stock in daily driving. Just an option. You'll need a cherry picker or some sort of way to support the engine even if your dropping the subframe to pull the tranny. Oh yea, to answer your question, Yes! ...you have to TAKE OFF the tranny, the entire thing! :)

If you can't accomplish it by yourself, PM stazi. He is the best bet for quality and price around. I'm to busy right now, but there are a few other EGL guys who I'm sure would be willing to help you out. Just ask around.


Good luck.


Jeff
 
Where is the best place to buy the spec 1. I could use a link please. Also I am thinking about LSD. would It be easy to change while I am doing the clutch? I am not that worried about time it takes. I have a nice big garage to use as much as my wife will let me. I priced a oem with plate, disc and bearing which is only available with the slave will be 359.87 before tax. That does not even include the alignment tool which I will have to buy somewhere else. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 
If you machine the flywheel make sure that the machine shop knows what they are doing. It is a two plain flywheel, and equal amounts must be removed from each plain.

If the flywheel looks premo you may not need to machine it. If in doubt, machine it, but make sure that they do it right. I would measure the step before and after to make sure as it is a lot of work to pull it back out.
 
OK thanks for the info guys. I found a luk clutch for 245 with tob, slave, plate and the alignment tool. I have heard good things about them so I am thinking between luk and spec1. oem is just alot more for stock.
 
I'd go with Spec stage 1 if your not going the route of a stock clutch. Spec includes the pressure plate, cluch disk , the alignment tool, and a new TOB. I made sure that they didn't send me the zetec TOB! :crazy: Can't beat the price if your looking for a quality clutch! It would be a great time to put in a LSD, but you mine as well get the entire tranny rebuilt if your doing that. Then throw in a Spec lightweight flywheel along with the spec clutch and you'll be loving your SVT and hated by your wife when she sees your credit card bill! Trust me though, it is worth it!
 
From Terry...

Hey....the LuK clutch IS the stoc SVT unit! LuK IS one of the 2 OEM's for the V6 clutch...the other is Sachs but the Sachs OEM unit is/was mostly used in Ford Europe cars.The LuK is NOT an aftermarket and is ...a damm good unit. At least LuK and Sachs, as genuine OEM's, have the Ford blueprits etc so that their parts meet Ford specs etc.
Clutchmaster,Spec,Ram etc all have to guess or just try to copy the 'genuine specs'...I know which damm unit I'd use!!!
------------

When I post I don't just come up with random unfounded drivel!
 
todras said:
From Terry...

Hey....the LuK clutch IS the stoc SVT unit! LuK IS one of the 2 OEM's for the V6 clutch...the other is Sachs but the Sachs OEM unit is/was mostly used in Ford Europe cars.The LuK is NOT an aftermarket and is ...a damm good unit. At least LuK and Sachs, as genuine OEM's, have the Ford blueprits etc so that their parts meet Ford specs etc.
Clutchmaster,Spec,Ram etc all have to guess or just try to copy the 'genuine specs'...I know which damm unit I'd use!!!
------------

When I post I don't just come up with random unfounded drivel!
Click to expand...

And I know that I'd still use a SPEC stage 1 clutch. Only problems have been shipping errors, with people getting the wrong TOB. Replaced my original clutch at 36k miles. Put in a LUK clutch and it went at 52k miles, just 8 days after the 3L install. I've had the SPEC stage 1 in since then, that's 39k miles, and it still bites/drives like the day it was installed. Hmmmmm, I 39k miles > 36k miles >16k miles.

Mark
 
I plan on keeping my car completely stock. I bought the luk yesterday for 260 out the door. How do I make sure I buy the right TOB?
I was thinking about it and decided that If I was ever to go to a 3L I would want a built trans from terry. Then I would probably want a spec 3 because I would want to build more than just stock a 3L.
Hopefully I get to dig into this project sat.
thanks for the info
Joe
 
stocksvtcontour said:
OK thanks for the info guys. I found a luk clutch for 245 with tob, slave, plate and the alignment tool. I have heard good things about them so I am thinking between luk and spec1. oem is just alot more for stock.
Click to expand...


IIRC the stock SVT clutch, pp, tob from Bill J is cheaper than that
 
todras said:
Doubtful. TOB alone from him is $100 or so.
Click to expand...


$100 for just the TOB from Bill! :shocked: Why is it so expensive!??! Maybe I was stupid to use the TOB that came with my spec clutch. And yes I did make sure it wasn't the Zetec TOB! :crazy:



Reebs
 
slave cylinder, 2.5l 95-00 $113.95$0.00$89.02

Disc, 2.5l, w/svt package 98-00 $119.93$7.00$111.54

Pressure plate, 2.5l, w/svt package 98-00 $125.99$15.00$117.17

So $317 from Jenkins plus shipping for everything you need.

He sells a non SVT clutch kit with all 3 items for $200. Don't know if he has one for the SVT or not. If so you might be right on going through Bill being cheaper.
 
Last edited:
todras said:
slave cylinder, 2.5l 95-00 $113.95$0.00$89.02

Disc, 2.5l, w/svt package 98-00 $119.93$7.00$111.54

Pressure plate, 2.5l, w/svt package 98-00 $125.99$15.00$117.17

So $317 from Jenkins plus shipping for everything you need.

He sells a non SVT clutch kit with all 3 items for $200. Don't know if he has one for the SVT or not. If so you might be right on going through Bill being cheaper.
Click to expand...

Hmmm, then again it has been a couple years since I did mine so maybe my memory is failing me. I was thinking 180 but after searching ollllld posts turns out it was more, I posted this in Feb of '05

Clutch Disc, SVT, V6, Exchange F7RZ-7550-AA $83.79
Throw out bearing V6, All F5RZ-7A508-A $78.05
Pressure Plate SVT, V6, Exchange F7RZ-7563-AA $86.27

Add I think 15 and 8 dollars for the core charges, plus like 12-20 shipping depending on where you are. Still a STEAL at like 280 to 290 shipped with core charges.
Click to expand...
 
Since you are tearing down as far as you need to to replace the clutch, better change out the slave/release bearing. They are one integral unit. If it leaks you are back to the same tear down.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top