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car won't start mtx rebuild

auiotour

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 17, 2002
Messages
54
Location
Federal Way WA
I recently ripped out the mtx75 and was going to replace some parts only to find out that I really didn't need to replace them anyways. Everything was mint condition and it seems it was because of the transmission mount being broke (hard to tell other then trans sitting on the sub frame)

Now everything is back together and sparks have risen. Now we found the starter bolts weren't tight enough and think it shorted it, but when testing it at schucks it goes fine, just shows bearings are a bit out of whack but all within the guide lines to say it works. I chose to replace it after seeing how easy it engages the gears versus how hard it was to manually make it with the stock starter.

Now we have installed it back again and I have yet to try it out again. But I will be doing it once I get home in 2-3 hours. I am looking forward to driving my car as with all the wow and OT i have had, i have had very little time to want to spend on my car (3 month project date is nearing, tough we worked on it 3 times now).

I noticed when I filled the transmission fluid back up with mercon v atx that it started leaking near the drivers spline. I bought some leak stopper thats mercon v to mix in. Will this help, or should I buy new seals. They were out of the car unsealed for near 3 weeks. So I am guessing they may need new seals or just a little leak stopper.

Any suggestions?
 
...I bought some leak stopper thats mercon v to mix in. Will this help, or should I buy new seals. They were out of the car unsealed for near 3 weeks. So I am guessing they may need new seals or just a little leak stopper.

Any suggestions?

Do you mean it's leaking where the driveshafts go into the differental? Didn't you get new ones installed during the rebuild? I doubt the seal sweller will help. Now it will be a pain to reinstall the seals with the trans in the car. Are both sides leaking?
 
only the driver side is leaking

We still cant' get the car to start. we have totally swapped the battery out and tested it and its full charged.

I am not sure what I may have connected wrong. The cables seem to get super hot, though i see nothing wrong with the connections.

Any idea's on what I may need to do to fix my car? Its very frustrating. This weekend i will pull the drive shaft (yes drive shaft sorry).

Headed back down to work on it more.
 
Your axle is NOT seated. That's why it's leaking.


I agree.

Look at where the shafts go into the transaxle and look for any shiny surface. If you see any at all chances are your shaft(s) are not seated all the way. You may want to try and us a rubber mallet to pound it back in. If you don't have any luck you will most likely have to drain your fluid and pull the axles back out and try putting them back in.
 
only the driver side is leaking

We still cant' get the car to start. we have totally swapped the battery out and tested it and its full charged.

I am not sure what I may have connected wrong. The cables seem to get super hot, though i see nothing wrong with the connections.

Any idea's on what I may need to do to fix my car? Its very frustrating. This weekend i will pull the drive shaft (yes drive shaft sorry).

Headed back down to work on it more.

Does the starter work at all? Have you checked all the connections to te starter?
Also check the ground wire that goes from the tranny to the body
Which cables are the ones getting hot?
 
Does the starter work at all? Have you checked all the connections to te starter?
Also check the ground wire that goes from the tranny to the body
Which cables are the ones getting hot?


Tge starter is brand new autolite start from Schucks.
The connections to the start seem to be fine, a little exposed at the battery but nothing that should cause problems at the terminals.
The ground wire is connected to the tranny, but I think maybe I will see if I connected it wrong to the tranny hopes that helps
The direct cables from the battery to the starters.
 
Just an update for those who have been asking me in PMs.

The leak was caused by not properly seeding the drive shaft on the drivers side (about 1/4 out). Once this was in the leak stop in entire.

We have narrowed the electric problems down to Fuse 34 under the dash and the Courtesy Lamps relay. they are both some how causing the chassis of the car to be hot.

Some where we have lose wiring or something that is causing the issue. We have not figured it out completely. The relay looks fine when opened. But of course you can't check the core of the relay visually.

Tomorrow we will lower it and take a test drive if possible (battery is currently dead)
 
right now we tried starting it and still nothing, the fuse and relay are out and still absolutely no luck

We hooked it up to charge it and it was running a steady 14.32 volts into the battery. When starting it dropped to 6-7 volts. after letting it run and trying off and on for several hours it topped at 9v so we went and bought a battery from napa. Same issue except back it 8v. Regardless of how you are trying to start the car, jumping or regular.

I have not pulled the switch as I am unable to work on it more today as I will be leaving shortly.

I am running out of possibilities.

note: with fuse 34 and the courtesy lamp relay removed we have no issues causing the chassis to be live.
 
Okay so everything is back in and still issues, nothing on the head light switch as i was hoping from the above post.

When i move the car (pushing it in and out of garage) it clicks loudly. Unlike a rock in the dread. What in the transmission could cause this.

To me i am seeing maybe this as an issue of something is installed all the way /correctly causing it to click making it so the starter can't turn the flywheel.

Any idea on this?
 
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