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Car is most likely toast

D

DarthMuppet

CEG'er
Joined
Jul 20, 2005
Messages
64
Location
Visalia, CA
Okay so my buddies 98 CSVT probably has a bad rod bearing. He doesnt want to pay for a new engine so I was wondering if anyone new about how much he could probably expect to make if he just parted it out. Any ideas?
 
not trying to imply anything, but it depends on the condition of the parts. Just tell him to look around for used engines first. from what a ford tech has told me, the regular v6 engine will work, but it would be really hard to find one with low mileage.

Edit: knowing that this is my opinion
 
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Parting out a car is a TON of work and I wouldn't recommend parting it out if it just has a bad motor. If it is a clean car and has a clean title then you are best off just posting it up for sale. Send me a pm with pictures and a price and I'd probably buy it off your friend. :shrug: Seriously. Parting out is pain in the *** and you sit on mountains of parts for years.

Oh, and putting in a SE motor is the dumbest thing ever.
 
Reebs said:
Parting out a car is a TON of work and I wouldn't recommend parting it out if it just has a bad motor. If it is a clean car and has a clean title then you are best off just posting it up for sale. Send me a pm with pictures and a price and I'd probably buy it off your friend. :shrug: Seriously. Parting out is pain in the *** and you sit on mountains of parts for years.

Oh, and putting in a SE motor is the dumbest thing ever.
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+1 on the parting out, and +1 on the SE motor, costs just as much as doing a 3L and gives you substaintially less horsepower.
 
AliasJerk said:
+1 on the parting out, and +1 on the SE motor, costs just as much as doing a 3L and gives you substaintially less horsepower.
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For once I have to say I agree with Alias on this one. And of couse it's actually Reebs who I'm agreeing with cause we all know Alias doesn't actually
think! :laugh:
 
ctmystique said:
For once I have to say I agree with Alias on this one. And of couse it's actually Reebs who I'm agreeing with cause we all know Alias doesn't actually
think! :laugh:
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your not agreeing w/alias...like usual,he's following up what someone else said:laugh: it is not the same cost to put a 2.5 in..period. even the most straight forward 3L swap will cost more.
what color is it? silver by any chance?!?!?!:laugh:
 
Until you have a look at the journal, it seems pre-mature to condemn the engine.

If the crank isn't scored, you might be able to put in a new bearing set and drive into the sunset.
 
93rev2sev said:
Until you have a look at the journal, it seems pre-mature to condemn the engine.

If the crank isn't scored, you might be able to put in a new bearing set and drive into the sunset.
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Seems to me that to be on the safe side, the crank journals should be polished and measured before new bearings are installed. I realize that this means removing the engine but I've never heard of what amounts to just slapping in new bearings and calling it good before reading about it on this site. Yikes!
Karl
 
98SVTC said:
Seems to me that to be on the safe side, the crank journals should be polished and measured before new bearings are installed. I realize that this means removing the engine but I've never heard of what amounts to just slapping in new bearings and calling it good before reading about it on this site. Yikes!
Karl
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its nothing here...go read shoforums. its done as prevent. maintance over there.
 
thats what the mechanic told me this morning before he looked at it. He said there were no promises it would last though. If thats even the problem.
 
This topic of replacing just the bearings has been beaten to death. As a mechanic, here's what I can tell you from my experience:

The bearings wear with the crank. The babbit in the bearing shells is softer, yes, but the crank journals wear nonetheless. If you replace the bearings without replacing the crankshaft, it will buy you some time, but they will never be properly lubricated because the surfaces don't match. If you're lucky you may get 10-15 thousand miles out of it before they wear out again. In this case though, it sounds like the engine already has a problem, and here it is far too late even for that. If you hear a knock, decide to throw new bearing shells in, and put it back together, you're lucky if it even lasts a thousand miles because in that case the crankshaft is usually badly scored. Also, on Duratecs, it appears that the rod bearing problems come from poorly made rods that elongate over time and lose their clamping force, so without replacing them, you're simply ignoring the real problem.

If you're dead set on fixing this engine, you will need to have the crank turned and polished, undersized bearings installed to match, as well as new rods. This, I guarantee, will be over $1000.

My point: cheaper and easier to find a low mileage 3L and drop it in.
 
I just read on another thread that a fellow wants to sell his SVT motor w/ 124k on it to install a 3.0..... this could get you down the road a bit maybe cheaper.....
 
Redlineracer12 said:
Truth... I can't believe how many people think the 3L's are straight swaps (not intended at Reebs/Alias, mainly the people who have never been involved in one :))
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I know you aren't intending this to me, but I've never said anything out a 3L swap being as straight forward as a 2.5L for 2.5L. Obviously the 3L requires extra modifications that require some extra time, but in my case it is the best route to go as it is just my spare time I am wasting. :)
 
68fordman said:
reebs if you buy this, how many svt's will you have? just curious
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Right now or over the past 2 years? Right now owning them at the same time would be 7 SVT's if you include this one. I have 1 or 2 secretive ones that nobody knows about. Nobody. ;) I don't even want to think about how many I've had total. :crazy:
 
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