Probaly because the plugs dried up a little and were not pre-soaked in fuel lol. Next time you go to start after running for a while, it'll probaly come back. If not, I don't know what to tell you :laugh:
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can't put my finger...
- Thread starter BAD SVT
- Start date
Probaly because the plugs dried up a little and were not pre-soaked in fuel lol. Next time you go to start after running for a while, it'll probaly come back. If not, I don't know what to tell you :laugh:
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
Well it could, but not necessarily so. This is what happens when you change so much and add alot of things. Trust me, I know how your feeling.
This mod does kind of raise a red flag. Not necessarily with the product itself, but this is a significant portion of the fuel system that you completey changed, and now you have pressure issues. Seems there could be something there maybe with the install, or "possibly" with the product. Not accusing or anything. Just stating a fact. In these situations you have to trace your steps, its almost always has to do with the way you installed a new part, or the new part itself. If everything else in the fuel system is what you were using prior to the swap, is working fine, you know were to direct your attention(read new parts). If all those check out, than you move on. Any chance of debri in the fuel rail or injectors? Maybe a plastic cap left on in injector or on the rail, or one stuck in the manifold. See what I am getting at here.
Hang in there, you will figure it out.
thanx man. i'll do my best
.BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
okay. i for one am stumped now. i just took apart my fuel tank. checked the lines again. no blockage. fuel pump's good. nuthn outta the ordinary. wots a guy to do now? :shrug: wont i solve this whole problem by just getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator?
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
after a lotta research, i found this. how come no one told me this...:shrug:
this part specifically... i know it says dsm but these are exactly my symptoms. isnt it a possibility thats my problem? cant seem to find any other solutuon. i just eliminated the last possible culprit.
I've been doing some reserch and found some good info. Thought it would be nice to share it with all.
The three most common Walbro pumps are compared. The 190L/Hr, 255L/Hr, and the High Output 255L/Hr. They are tested at "stock" FPR of 43psi, "15psi of boost" or 58psi, and "30psi of boost" or 73psi.
Cross referencing the flow data with the chart in Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost", we can obtain the following data:
190L/Hr pump is good for ~280HP
255L/Hr pump is good for ~510HP
255HP pump is good for ~610HP
All of the source links are at the bottom of this post.
Code:[Pump Model] [Battery Voltage] [Test Pressure] [Current Draw] [Flow] Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 12.5V 43psi 6.0amps 168.45 Ltr/Hr Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 12.5V 58psi 7.0amps 145.11 Ltr/Hr Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 12.5V 73psi 8.0amps 88.96 Ltr/Hr Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 14.0V 43psi 6.5amps 208.83 Ltr/Hr Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 14.0V 58psi 7.5amps 162.78 Ltr/Hr Walbro "190" LPH GSS-250 14.0V 73psi 9.5amps 104.10 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 12.5V 43psi 7.5amps 229.02 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 12.5V 58psi 9.0amps 201.89 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 12.5V 73psi 10.5amps 147.00 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 14.0V 43psi 8.0amps 261.83 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 14.0V 58psi 10amps 230.92 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255" LPH GSS-317 14.0V 73psi 11.5amps 182.97 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 12.5V 43psi 7amps 233.4 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 12.5V 58psi 9amps 210.10 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 12.5V 73psi 10.5amps 189.3 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 14.0V 43psi 8amps 264.4 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 14.0V 58psi 9.5amps 242.9 Ltr/Hr Walbro "255 High Pressure" LPH GSS-342 14.0V 73psi 11amps 220.8 Ltr/Hr
Check this graph out too just to see how much boosting the fuel pump's voltage can increase flow. This shows just how well a Boost-A-Pump can work.
Interesting note about using a stock FPR...
"Note, however, that using a 255 or 255HP pump on a DSM will probably require an adjustable aftermarket Fuel Pressure Regulator, especially if using larger injectors, in order to get the fuel pressure curve more linear. Any very high flow pump can overrun the tiny stock FPR, causing the base fuel pressure to be higher, and making the fuel curve nonlinear, making the ECU's control of the fuel more difficult. When coupled with larger injectors, you can basically flood the engine with fuel, causing your car to run super-rich (black smoke out the tailpipe almost all the time), lowering mpg and power. Installing an adj FPR allows you to dial the base fuel pressure back to stock, maintain a linear fuel pressure curve, and gain back mpg and power."
Links to source pages:
http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm#j5
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/fuelpumpflowrates.htm
Source for fuel pumps:
http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/fppumps.html
(I don't know about the Duratec, but the Zetec uses the GSS250, F20000141, GSS317, or the GSS342)
HTH,
BP
this part specifically... i know it says dsm but these are exactly my symptoms. isnt it a possibility thats my problem? cant seem to find any other solutuon. i just eliminated the last possible culprit.
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What was the engine vacuum? Also what was fuel pressure with the line removed?
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after a lotta research, i found this. how come no one told me this...:shrug:
this part specifically... i know it says dsm but these are exactly my symptoms. isnt it a possibility thats my problem? cant seem to find any other solutuon. i just eliminated the last possible culprit.
No. Do you see anyone else running a adjustable fuel pressure regualtor? Your not the first to do this. Our stock regulator holds up fine. Is there any possible way to kriss kross fuel lines with your new setup? Usualy thats no possible because there different sizes, just trying to figure things out. Pics also help of the setup. Whats the part# number for the fuel pump you installed? What happens if you install the stock pump again?
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
hey. thanx for ur help. i wasnt able to get to testing the engine vacuum nor fuel pressure with the vacuum line off cos the car wouldnt even turn over now. it just keeps making this loud continous clicking noise when i turn the key. boy i tell u, my luck with cars is just unbelievable.
. thats the starter right? its a new battery. as for the fuel pump, wot i was sent was a 255l/hr high pressure pump. i dont know the part number tho.
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checked the battery voltage recently?
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
that was my first thot actually brian but i brought it back from autozone on monday fully charged. at least thats wot they told me. however between monday and today i've started and turned off maybe 4times, never driving it anywhere. the internal lights are still on. however, as i opened the door with the remote, the mechanism did drag. u think its just low enuff to not start the car?
yes it could be down near 10~11 volts, still enough to turn some things on but not enough to start the car ...
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
alright then. i'll go charge it again. i plan to check a couple of things today. the last thing i plan to do is replace my fuel pump with the 2.5 that i took out and see if there's any change. that should CONCLUSIVELY tell me wot my problem is.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
my cabin vacuum guage read 12. the fuel pressure was the same even with the regulator vacuum off. i did get the mityvac thing but dont know how to use it. it didnt come with a manual. so i wasnt able to get the vacuum reading at the regulator. i wasnt able to exchange the fuel pump yet. should get to it tomorrow. am really frustrated at this point tho.
BurritaSVT
Veteran CEG'er
The custom block we used was installed with his stock pump now I read the pressure when testing the pump for R&D and it was great and work at the stock pressures. Now if for some reason he installed the fuel pump and that was it never touched the block upfront and the car ran rich then? So my first thing was did the return line in the tank get bent or restricted in anyway? I will get him to send me the block overnite I will test it on my car to see if the pressure is the same point blank there has to be a restriction so I want to isolate the problme by testing it on my car. Joey
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
thanx joey. anyone else using a 255l/hr hp pump on his 3L with joey's fuel block? am i the only one with a combination of all three?
Reebs
meester super sleuth
I don't know anyone using even the 255lph High pressure fuel pump. The one I used was the regular 255lph fuel pump which was high volume obviously (255 liters per hour) but it was a Low Pressure fuel pump. You didn't need the high pressure fuel pump because you aren't even going to need that extra horsepower potential. The regular 255lph pump that supports around 510 wheel horsepower should have been PLENTY for you.
I still would think that the stock fuel pressure should be able to regulate it though, but I guess it could be just too much for it with that fuel pump?!?! :shrug:
Seems a little low. What temp was the engine at? The mityvac is simple, just un plug any vacuum hose and stick it on the nipple of the mity vac. That will give you vacuum readings. Also you shouldn't have any problems with the high pressure pump.
Uhh what?? :shrug:
BurritaSVT
Veteran CEG'er
lol.......... boy my I need to proofread myself before hitting the submit button. Now that I am not in a rush I will explain what I think may be the issue with his car and why I think this too. He had all original equipment like the stock fuel pump and the factory regulator before he blew his engine which was fine then . Now we swapped his engine out added the fuel mod that just keeps stock pressure on the side of the fuel rail. When the pressure exceeds 40 psi the regulator relieves the pressure through the stock regulator into the return line routed through my conversion block. Now this block was tested and tested with boost,vacuum, no vacuum for weeks on a stock car with stock pump. The pressure were perfect then .Now BADSVT ran this setup for weeks with no issues but had the stock fuel pump where he was leaning out over 8 psi on the 3 liter because he was starving his motor with a the stock fuel pump. Now I order him a 255lph HP that from my distributor said that the only difference is that the check valve is modified so it can hold higher pressure down at the pump. But in reality this should not matter since the regulator should relieve the pressure regardless of the pump pressure capablities but flow can make a difference if it flowed more than 255lph but it doesn't. So since I never tested the block with a 255lph pump maybe the routing in the block has a small restriction or he has a restriction in the line (kinked) or the fuel hat return line is blocked some. I will send him a SVT LIM with a stock fuel rail and regulator with injectors where I will build him a female slip on harness to his fuel pump plug. This harness will be fused and will have a switch where he can flip a constant 12 volt source to the pump (of course unplugged) where he can see what the pressure is with no vacuum and if he wants he can go to the auto store and pick up a vacuum pump to test low pressure setting. Now if the stock LIM works fine with normal pressure then I will have to bore out the opening in the block to improve the flow for the fuel but I have the hole larger than the ID now. We have to go back to what we know works for sure that way he can pinpoint the area of concern more.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
this is on a cold engine. the car runs and smokes so badly that soon as i get the readings am looking for, i turn it off. it is different while driving tho. at normal driving, the vacuum falls to almost 20.
edit***- this 20"hg vacuum reading was before the problems by the way.
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BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
heres wot i did today. I wanted to fully eliminate the possiblity of a bent, blocked, or restrictive return line. so i bought a nine ft fuel/emmission tube from autozone. i disconnected my return line and re-routed it through the tube into a gallon. here are my results:
without vacuum, no smoke came outta my exhausts, nor fuel smells as it usually does. pressure was still thru d roof tho. the strange part is no fuel came thru my "new" return line into the gallon.
with vacuum, theres smoke as usual, immense fuel smell and so forth. pressure still pegged past maximum. am beggining to wonder if the guage i bought works correctly. the needle pegs way past 100psi and keeps fluttering there. oh, and still no fuel came thru the return hose.
anyway, if theres any thoughts on my experiment or results, pleeeease do share.
without vacuum, no smoke came outta my exhausts, nor fuel smells as it usually does. pressure was still thru d roof tho. the strange part is no fuel came thru my "new" return line into the gallon.
with vacuum, theres smoke as usual, immense fuel smell and so forth. pressure still pegged past maximum. am beggining to wonder if the guage i bought works correctly. the needle pegs way past 100psi and keeps fluttering there. oh, and still no fuel came thru the return hose.
anyway, if theres any thoughts on my experiment or results, pleeeease do share
.