I have a 1998 Contour 2.0 4 speed auto and have been chasing an issue with the car not coming out of 1st(2nd?) gear. I have a code for P1747 and p0125, I tried messing with the EPC(P1747) to no avail, Now im onto the temp issue so i pulled the thermostat to discover that its broken and i mean literally, the part holding the spring in snapped. Could this put the car in limp mode and cause the transmission not to shift or am i wishful thinking? If this is enough to put the car in limp mode and boost the line pressure to max, wouldnt that make sense for both codes?
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Can a broken thermostat cause car not to shift?
- Thread starter Rob1
- Start date
jrichardson
Veteran CEG'er
I'm not sure, I don't believe it will but you need to replace that thermostat regardless so put a new one in and cross your fingers.
I replaced it and didnt do anything. Go figure. Lol.
I decided to check the spark plugs only to discover that all four of them where submerged in a half an inch of oil. Obviously the rest why it has a bad hesitation on take off. Could this put the car in limp mode and limit transmission shifting?
I decided to check the spark plugs only to discover that all four of them where submerged in a half an inch of oil. Obviously the rest why it has a bad hesitation on take off. Could this put the car in limp mode and limit transmission shifting?
Is this car even in limp mode? I almost feel like it is, Ive already taken off the valve body and shift solenoid and didnt see anything out of line, Even replaced the shift solenoid with one from the junkyard and nothing changed. I discovered the broken thermostat and now the 4 oil submerged spark plugs in the engine so im starting to lean over towards that side now.
jrichardson
Veteran CEG'er
I honestly have no idea if it is in limp mode, but replacing that valve cover won't hurt none. Your just gonna have to wait for someone with a better understanding to chim in.
If i remember correctly, Limp mode means O/D light flashes right? It isnt flashing on this car. It just throws a check engine light after resetting. Im going to borrow/buy a code reader to see if any new codes are being thrown. I know the P1747 code is the EPC solenoid short circuit but i have no idea what part or how to fix that if its the issue since i replaced the whole solenoid block with one from the junkyard and didnt make the smallest difference.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
Wish i could help. But i know little about the 2.0. And that's probably why u're not getting much help from anyone else either. You're not just getting ignored. Very few around here know the 2.0 well. And my guess is that they aren't around any longer. Or don't log on much.
Yeah, I kind of figured lol. Its fine though. I guess it could help others who have a similar problem in the future. Before i started this thread i had zero leads on where to start, Now that i checked the pins in the shift solenoid plug and only getting 4 out of 10 to read, That tells me i may have found my problem. I wonder if a group of wires in the harness shorted out or something and thats why 6 of them aren't showing anything on the meter? The big one is the #9 pin in that diagram above, as that goes directly with the code im getting and im getting no reading from it.
General question, Are the harnesses for these cars hard to tear out? I plan on ripping out the whole harness that leads to the PCM and inspecting it.
projectSHO89
Hard-core CEG'er
What exactly (and how) are you measuring? The voltage readings you gave lack context and make no sense.
Im using a multimeter. Checking each pin in the plug, Only 4 of the pins gave me a reading back and the other 6 wont give out anything.
BAD SVT
Addicted CEG'er
No they aren't. Pretty easy.
projectSHO89
Hard-core CEG'er
That's not what I asked. Please explain where each multimeter lead is at for each measurement. Is the valve body harness connected or disconnected from the vehicle harness? Which side of the harness connector (vehicle or transmission) are you making your measurements?
What is the condition of the vehicle battery (measure it!)?
Ignition switch position?
Your readings don't make any sense and I suspect it's due to improper testing technique/procedure.
Ill admit, Its only my second time using a multimeter. I checked the connector on the harness that leads to the PCM. I mainly wanted to see if the harness was getting power and could only get 4 of the 10 slots to give me a reading. I've replaced the Solenoid block/connector once already with no change at all so i moved onto the harness that leads to the PCM.
projectSHO89
Hard-core CEG'er
Again, that is not what I asked.
For assistance, read each question and answer each in turn as accurately and as concisely as possible. If you do not understand the question, ask for clarification.
For assistance, read each question and answer each in turn as accurately and as concisely as possible. If you do not understand the question, ask for clarification.
Black lead is on metal(grounded) and red lead is going into each pin hole. Again, 4 out of 10 gave me a reading, the rest stayed at 0, The connector im checking is the connector on the harness that leads to the wiring harness that runs at the back of the motor to the PCM.
Battery is new, No issues there.
Ignition is "on" during testing.
Connector im checking is the connector that goes to the solenoid block(pictured below)
Battery is new, No issues there.
Ignition is "on" during testing.
Connector im checking is the connector that goes to the solenoid block(pictured below)
Took the harness out and started checking each wire, They are all showing continuity from the connector to the PCM connector, aswell as the connector where pin 3/6/9 wires lead to, so i doubt the wiring harness is the issue. I also checked all the fuses/relays and all are in good working order.
So im starting to think its the PCM. I pulled the PCM out and it doesnt look original to me. It has like a 10 number code etched into the metal by hand and i highly doubt they would do that from the factory.
So im starting to think its the PCM. I pulled the PCM out and it doesnt look original to me. It has like a 10 number code etched into the metal by hand and i highly doubt they would do that from the factory.
jrichardson
Veteran CEG'er
don't assume just because the battery is new that it has a proper charge, a weak charging system can cause all kinds of mayhem in the vehicles electronics.