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Cam specs

The presence of VCT even more of a reason to get header, since you are trapped by exhaust cam timing versus PCM. Header will alleviate some of that, although I'm not a big fan of most of the "shorty" headers out there. They just don't work well. Primary tubes not long enough and really crappy entry angles at collector interface make me laugh when I see most of them. I used to hotrod a lot of different V-8 engines and even though header install can be problematic, it usually showed the biggest grins from end user when done. Header done proper can show huge increase in torque if engine wants it. If you gotta keep the converter in stock location, it will not be done right to make big power. Header needs to go in front of and under engine, converter further back and low my opinion. There just no way to get proper lengths otherwise. My view header to be done first mod, when all cylinders are being sucked down by each other properly with good tuned header, engine responds like a mild form of turbo without all the add on complexity. The VCT retard characteristic should even help that by increasing overlap. After header is other boltons, THEN you go internal engine. Hotter cams worthless if rest of motor not up to snuff for them.
 
95_Mystique, I got those specs off of Team ZX2. The motors are the same as far as I know, only difference I know between the motors is the accessory belt diagram. The ZX2 has 2 Idler pulleys to our 1....if I remember correctly.

Jamesmason1, the Kent cams don't have a VCT cam available for our car last I checked, but Cat cams does. Its under the Zetec MGA section. CFM is looking to start carrying cams for all the zetec motors.
 
amc49 said:
The presence of VCT even more of a reason to get header, since you are trapped by exhaust cam timing versus PCM. Header will alleviate some of that, although I'm not a big fan of most of the "shorty" headers out there. They just don't work well. Primary tubes not long enough and really crappy entry angles at collector interface make me laugh when I see most of them. I used to hotrod a lot of different V-8 engines and even though header install can be problematic, it usually showed the biggest grins from end user when done. Header done proper can show huge increase in torque if engine wants it. If you gotta keep the converter in stock location, it will not be done right to make big power. Header needs to go in front of and under engine, converter further back and low my opinion. There just no way to get proper lengths otherwise. My view header to be done first mod, when all cylinders are being sucked down by each other properly with good tuned header, engine responds like a mild form of turbo without all the add on complexity. The VCT retard characteristic should even help that by increasing overlap. After header is other boltons, THEN you go internal engine. Hotter cams worthless if rest of motor not up to snuff for them.
Click to expand...

You make a good point on header length and angle. Although, i would like longer and a 4-2-1 instead of 4-1. its the best thing offered so im stuck with it. It is a huge difference over stock header and cat though. :cool: loud as hell too(which isnt a good thing)
 
I'm not big on 4-2-1 pipes. Just simple header with straight in entrance into collector, somewhat proper length. Too short prevents proper scavenge at overlap. Too short also harder to make pipes equal length, less area to work with. With all cylinders charging collector at even spacing and amplitude (straight in entry angle) you can actually achieve a negative pressure state (you read that right, VACUUM!) in open exhaust at higher rpm ranges, especially with motor in steady state. You can attach a vacuum gauge to exhaust can and read it. Kinda destroys the whole "she's gotta have back pressure to work" theory.
 
depends on the tunning. My car wouldnt start for S*** when the collector broke off my header a few weeks ago. Wouldnt idle smooth, it glugged around like a v8 with a misfire.

(my fault i didnt attach support bracket)
 
either way, 95. You should get headers and a ported TB then cams.

headers:
http://www.google.com/products?q=weapon-r+headers+cougar&btnG=Search+Products&show=dd

http://www.ilovebodykits.com/produc..._Street_Headers-98-03_Mercury_Cougar_4CY.html

TB: I recommend getting a TB from a contour at a junk yard. Any zetec TB off of a contour will work. Then send it to Harry to get it optimized, it is slightly expensive but worth it.

you can get a set of cams from:
zxtuner.com and others(made for the focus, but not the svt focus) , Note that you dont have vct on the exhaust side.

zxtuner will send you your parts. they do take a little longer then most to ship though. just be patient.
 
At the risk of sounding like a smartass, how does one "optimize" a TB?
 
its a pretty long list depending on what you want or the tb.

normal stuff:
1. polish insides
2. knife edge inlet and plate edge
3. remove front plate
4. shave backing plate
5. counter suck screws

odd ball things.

Tousley ford is again selling a stage 2 SVT focus TB. Along with the above, they have a machine shop bore it out to 65mm and replace its wedge shaped plate with a flat one.

you can also bore out a tb and put a larger plate in it. But that is very involved.
 
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