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Built vs 3.0L

B

BrandonSVT99

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 6, 2005
Messages
315
Location
Delaware
Since the Nautilus kit is out and I'm def. going to purchase one in the next year, I have been thinking to myself and would like your opinions,what would be the better,stronger,fast more reliable setup.Option #1)Keep my 2.5l svt motor and build it to the hilt,meaning forged pistons from diamond piston,forged connecting rods and crankshaft etc.Option #2)find myself a nice low mileage 03 escape motor using svtcams and manifolds and drop it in there.

I think option #1 is better because it will be boost "friendly" and I can use the money I would use on buying a 3.0l motor on The forged goodies.
The only good side to option#2 I see is the low end torque that you get from the 3.0L and I could use a bigger tubocharger for the bigger motor and using a small amount of boost(psi)meanig less stress on the engine,but more power,unlike the 2.5L(correct me if I am wrong-I am a newbie at turbocharging,just looking for some info).Anyways PLEASE don't FLAME it's just some random thinking in my head so bare with me....thanks

Mods-could you please add 2.5L after"built" ...thnks!
 
I would honestly go with an Escape 3.0L. The rods are already strong enough to support 400 whp and the pistons have been shown to handle 14 psi or whatever Ray is running on his setup.
 
the highest I ran/run is 14psi.

I run/try to run a "standard" 10psi, but running 14psi was the "norm" for a while there, and I wouldn't hesitate to do so, again.

I'd go with a 3L either way.

for the cost of the "forged goodies" that you are comparing to the cost of a 3L, you are forgetting one thing: that $500 or so will be getting you a LOW mileage engine..

How many miles on your 2.5, of which how many have been hard, etc, etc.

I'd, personally, pay $500 to "erase" all my high mileage, PLUS gain gobs of torque, AND run lower boost levels, temps, vs paying the SAME $500 for forged pistons, and rods only to have the same high mileage, same high boost levels, and temps, and same decrease in torque.

Why pay $500 to have "tough rods" JUST so that you HAVE to use them? I'll keep my stock rods, and use the $500 to start over in mileage any time.
 
Aren't Duratec cranks already forged? Seems I remember reading about a drag car with 1200 hp on stock crank and nothing special done to the block.
 
K99ja04 said:
Aren't Duratec cranks already forged? Seems I remember reading about a drag car with 1200 hp on stock crank and nothing special done to the block.
Click to expand...

Yes the crank and rods are forged. Manny Cruz's drag cougar was using the stock crank and finally bent it at around 1200-1400 hp.
 
You will get the 3L nod from me as well. Not running a Nautilus kit but turbo'd the same. I have some serious intercooling issues to resolve and mine is still mad fun and only making ~250hp 260ft/lbs torque. Stazi has got over 350 lbs of torque on his 3L turbocharged with stock rods and pistons. Ray's/Warmongers car is stock pistons and rods and made 356whp on 10psi. To get those figures out of a 2.5 you will need to run some seriously high (in the contour world) boost levels.
 
It's really rather pointless to build up a 2.5 with 3L's being so easy and cheap. You'd have to do all the same work to the 2.5 block for the most part for all the forged items so you might as well spend a couple extra bucks for the 3L.

Also, as people have said before if you're not gonna run more than 10 or 12 psi then don't even worry about it... with a good tune you'll be fine.
 
Thanxs everyone for this good information.I think I will purchase the kit and not run the turbo over 10psi(as barge stated is a safe level)Then in the future build a nice 3L.I never sure how much the 3L could handle as far as boost/HP levels,quite frankley I am pleasantly surprised!
 
easily over 400whp, and 380 WHEEL ft/lbs, at 14-15psi, on my setup. (which is NOT the nautilus kit, but I would expect the same ballpark figures from an identical engine with a Nautilus kit..
 
Most people with the 2.5L run like 7-9 psi I think... which really is plenty for most people. It's a big jump for the NA 2.5.

The biggest issue with going from a low boost 2.5 setup to a highish boost 3L setup is that the turbo sizing is totally different. So take that into account that you'll probably end up getting a new turbo when you go 3L. Or you can run a too big turbo on the 2.5, it will just be a little soft.
 
Some ran into an issue where they wanted to upgrade their turbo once they switched from a 2.5 to a 3L, but the turbo they wanted had a different flange then their crossover pipe and/or DP flange. For example, I had a T3/T04E with a 4-bolt DP, rather than the more typical 5-bolt. When I wanted to switch to a GT series, I didn't have as many options unless I wanted to chop off the old DP flange and change over.

But then again, IIRC Stazi had a t25 flange and was able to find a GT series that would suit his 3L needs.

Just something to consider....
 
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Yeah, that is very important. Talk over you long term plans with the Nautilus guys and see if you can get a flange setup that will leave you with as wide of range of upgrade options. I ran into the exact same issue Stazi had with a t25 flange. I was only able to find 1-2 good turbos to fit my needs without changing flanges. Spent a nice 1K for that turbo too.

Also, dont think that flange swap would be simple. Really think it through as there is not much wiggle room in our engine bays so small changes in flange height/depth could yeild seious packaging issues or worse, not fit at all.
 
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I bought a turbo and then bought a turbine housing separate that matched my flange...put it together and sold the old turbine for the price I paid for the new one!!!

It worked out fine.
 
BrandonSVT99 said:
Thanxs everyone for this good information.I think I will purchase the kit and not run the turbo over 10psi(as barge stated is a safe level)Then in the future build a nice 3L.I never sure how much the 3L could handle as far as boost/HP levels,quite frankley I am pleasantly surprised!
Click to expand...
Just run 10psi on your stock 2.5L and if something happens get a 3L. They seem to be taking a real beating without breaking and then you can spend a portion of the money now and then more later as necessary.
Sure you'll make more power on a 3L but still, it only takes 8 hours to bolt the kit on a 2.5L as it stands and with headers they seem to put down about 270wHP right out the box on 7psi boost.
That is honestly about the right amount of power for this car and chassis without going through the whole bigger clutch, new differential, bigger tires for grip, etc.
That level of power will bolt on stock and should be last for quite a while.
 
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