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Broken mount, guidance needed...

D

DuratecDave

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 4, 2000
Messages
314
Location
Tity of Salsa, Okla
Found that the upper transmission mount bolt?? is broken. The one below the airbox.

I've searched & found these can/do break, but need advice on repairing.
Assume I will need to tap or convince the broken part out of the mount. Replace it with "all-thread"? If anyone has the specifics, I'd appreciate it. The missing/broken half is gone, so no idea of its overall length, nuts, number of washers & their sizes, etc. Is there another rubber isolator at the bottom? Haynes manual lacks a decent photo & google search not much better.

Have searched & read that metric grade 8.8 (for this application) is recommended over grade 10.9? Is there a Ford 'repair kit' available, should I replace the rubber isolator, etc. I assume the transaxle is resting on the cradle, but the car is not/has not been driven in some time. Anyone got a good used spare for sale? Stock/OEM works best.

I've not worked on a MTX75 before. Do I jack the transmission up a little, insert the mount and install the nut in the small gap between the transmission and the mount? Does the rubber compress any? Your help is appreciated.


BTW, the red stuff is the last of Ford's brittle wiring insulation....

Contour2023.jpg
 
I'd say time to get a new mount all together. Looks like the part is now discontinued from Ford was $74, I bought one early last year. You can buy almost all of the mounts from these guys...http://www.deaproducts.com/, except the one you need... go figure. Good thing is it looks like this mount isn't hydraulic, which is odd because I could have sworn it was... so I guess you could try un-threading that bolt with a vise grips or something and replace it or maybe try filling the mount with urethane once you have the piece positioned back in the mount.

Also for reference...

http://www.newcougar.org/forums/tra...-mount-noooo-need-some-info-pics-added-2.html

Also looks like BAT Inc still has them available... but they are pricey...

http://www.batinc.net/contour.htm download the catalog and it's on catalog page 29 (page 28 of the PDF document)
Trans Mount 97-01 MT K433TL $137.25
 
Mine did he same thing on my old 3.0L. Took it to a private shop and they replaced just the bolt, so I don't think it is anything too special.
 
Thanks for the good info fellas.

Incase someone is searching these threads, the cougar link above has a post that was golden. I'll paste it here :

When you replace the bolt in the upper tranny mount do yourself a favor-
First off, it's an M12 metric bolt, 1.25 thread pitch (IIRC).
Secondly, unbolt the lower mount from the top of the tranny FIRST before you start putting this together.
Slip the bolt through the hole, use one of the nuts from the lower tranny mount to keep it from falling out, and put the lower tranny mount back in place. Take the nut off, and feed the bolt into the upper mount. Tighten the upper mount with the bolt until the bolt is lifting the lower tranny mount about 2-3mm off of the tranny. Then tighten down the nuts on the lower tranny mount (cross-tighten pattern). This will "lift" the tranny up to meet the plate, so that there is downward tension on the bolt you just installed into the mount. It'll help keep it from backing out (along with some loctite) and help put the tranny in the right position.
 
I replaced mine (when it broke) with a class 10.9 bolt... I'm not sure why someone would recommend a lower class rated bolt that would just break again.

Only the engine-side mount is hydraulic. If this is an original mount (10+ years old) you probably should get a brand new one. The large perforated rubber cone at the top of the mount will compress over time, and get sloppy. You can't tighten the bolt to shrink that gap either. After mine got sloppy (after I already replaced the bolt), I got a new mount and swapped the bolt out for a class 10.9 before I installed the mount.
 
i'm just spit balling here, but i would guess the reason they suggust a 8 over a 10 is the regidity, it needs to ba able to flex a little bit and if its too rigid then it will become brittle and snap. like i said, just a guess.
 
CSVT#49 said:
Let me know when you find a place that sells a new one...
Click to expand...
Just saying..... I didn't know they were discontinued. Before I replaced the mount, I put the swashed cone in a big Solo brand plastic cup (keg cup) and filled it with 94a. It turned out ok, but I wasn't completely happy with it (didn't fill the holes very well). Since that's the only real thing that seems to wear out, it shouldn't be too difficult to make a better mold and just replace the cone part. The rubber donut on the bottom side seemed to be in good condition, but that should also be easy to replicate.

I don't have the time to pursue it (or current need), but a group buy for a tranny mount "rebuilt" kit would probably be a good idea. New rubber cone, class 10.9 bolt, and lock washer could be the kit. Maybe the donut too, in case it got lost when the bolt broke.

I'd feel more comfortable with the extra strength from a class 10.9 (around 20% stronger) versus the slightly extra bendability of the class 8.8.

Edit: actually... the 10.9 started to not sound right, so I went to look at my spare bolt. I've been using a class 12.9 bolt, which is about 30% stronger than a class 8.8 bolt.
 
Also, just throwing this out there as an fyi... "grade" and "class" ratings are not interchangeable. Standard bolts are rated as grade, and metric bolts are rated as class. A grade 8 bolt has the same strength ratings as a class 10.9 bolt. Grade 5 is the same as a class 8.8.
 
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