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Brake upgrades for CSVT

S

SamSVT18

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
326
Location
Puyallup WA
Just wondering whats the best kind of brake kit for an SVT that has the stock E1s on her... Just been looking around and wondering whats the best and whats others have used and if they work out... So if you could help me out that would be great:o
 
so is that what the npg kit comes with? I also am needing new brakes soon and wanna upgrade, so your saying to get the npg kit, or focus front rotors and svt fronts for the rear, any mods need to be done to do this?
 
ronssvt said:
so is that what the npg kit comes with? I also am needing new brakes soon and wanna upgrade, so your saying to get the npg kit, or focus front rotors and svt fronts for the rear, any mods need to be done to do this?
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The fronts are straight forward. The backs need some modification to the knuckle and caliper bracket.

The nice thing is you get an illustrated how to for the rear.
 
SVT Loki said:
The fronts are straight forward. The backs need some modification to the knuckle and caliper bracket.

The nice thing is you get an illustrated how to for the rear.
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It is a little more than that. The kits are brackets land spacers that move the calipers out and and alter the offset to fit over the larger rotors. The fronts require trimming the knuckle for clearance. The rears require similar trimming of the knuckle, reducing the OD of the hub (or enlarging the "hat" area of the rotor) so the rotor will slip onto the hub, and enlarging the "throat" of the caliper so it will fit over the thicker rotor.

A bit of work, but WORTH IT. Braking improvement is at least 20%.
 
So this kit that they sell isnt a direct fit on?... I would have to do some modifications to the breaks themselves for it to work?... :confused::confused:... but u all seem pretty happy with it
 
I have an E0 with the Warmonger kit front and back. There wasn't much wear on either front or rear pads, so I used the existing ones. They are Satisfied Pro Ceramics on the rear, and Satisfied Semimetalic on the front. The rotors now on the rear were the same age as the pads (nearly new). They are drilled and slotted from ebay. The front rotors where new and are also drilled and slotted from ebay.

So this would be a controlled experiment as I had the same pads with stock size rotors and then with oversize rotors. The improvement in braking power is substantial. My subjective opinion is at least a 20% improvement.

I helped someone else do the conversion on a 2000 SVT. He purchased four new blank rotors from ebay. I think they were Centrix rotors (a high quality rotor). He used Bendix semimetalic front pads and Bendix organic rear pads. The results were about the same.

Just for the record, I don't believe that drilled and slotted rotors improve braking. I got seduced. I did it for the looks.
 
I only have the front kit installed so far but I am very happy with it. I got new blank FSVT rotors and reused the Bendix TitaniumII pads that I already had on the car since they still have ~50% life left. There is a good improvement in braking with the front kit alone. It wants to nose dive on hard braking. can't wait to get the rear kit in.
 
Great reviews in here - I'm not liking how the car stops from the very high speeds. Thinking this is going to be a great addition to the car in the Spring - no point on installing awesome brakes before the Winter..
 
Dyoel182 said:
My question would be what kind of rotors and pads are you currently using?
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I am currently using stock Front a rear brake pads and rotors... they are in desperate need of being changed out though... so since i need new brakes all around i decided to get the whole deal done... And to kind of disprove the theory that drilled and slotted arent better i have raced cars and when the brakes and rotors get to hot braking distance is lost... the drilled and slotted rotors help to keep the rotors and brakes from heating up quickly and help cool them... Off subject about how long would the modifications take to get the brakes onto the car?... would a hard days work get them on with the modifications being done also?:shrug:.. but this feed back is very helpful
 
My suggestion is to break it up into a two day or two weekend project. Do the fronts first. A couple of hours on the front if all goes well and you are properly equipped.

On the rears, it takes a while to modify the rotor hat or the hubs (I prefer grinding the hubs). It takes even longer to open up the throat of the caliper bracket to accept the thicker rotors. I would allow four to six hours. If you have access to a machine shop you can save a lot of grief by using a mill to open up the throat. You need to take about .065" off each side.
 
Well we got a shop and a grinder so i have that down... but anyone close enough to come maybe help me out with this?:shrug:.. dont really know what im dong but want to get this done...
 
SamSVT18 said:
I am currently using stock Front a rear brake pads and rotors... they are in desperate need of being changed out though...
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No way you're using the stock rotors and pads. Stock sizes sure but I meant brands so we could see if you're using cheap parts that shouldnt be performing or quality parts that should be but arent.

Big Jim said:
Just for the record, I don't believe that drilled and slotted rotors improve braking. I got seduced. I did it for the looks.
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Not many people believe they do improve braking. You cant take away surface friction area AND mass to absorb heat to improve performance. They do look nice though.
 
Big Jim said:
My suggestion is to break it up into a two day or two weekend project. Do the fronts first. A couple of hours on the front if all goes well and you are properly equipped.

On the rears, it takes a while to modify the rotor hat or the hubs (I prefer grinding the hubs). It takes even longer to open up the throat of the caliper bracket to accept the thicker rotors. I would allow four to six hours. If you have access to a machine shop you can save a lot of grief by using a mill to open up the throat. You need to take about .065" off each side.
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Is this only if you're using brand new rotors and pads? I was planning to resurface my fronts and get a new pad in there.
 
If you turn the rotor down to minimum thickness, it is still thicker than the original rear rotor. You will still need to open up the throat of the bracket, but perhaps only half as much.

Using pads that already have some wear on them may mean that you will not have to shave some material off them to get them to fit, or not leave out any shims. If the rotors are thinner, that alone may help.

There are some that talked about machining the rotors down to the same thickness as the original rotors but I never saw any follow up. You may have trouble finding a machinist that is willing to accept the potential liability of machining a rotor thinner than the minimum thickness that is cast or stamped on that rotor.
 
well for a little bit more money i HIGHLY recommend a TCE kit with the 12.2 rotor and the ndl caliper, i can fit my 16x6.5 inch stock cougar sport wheels. 100-0 in like 4-5 seconds, i've definitely made people bite the windshield when they piss me off :)
 
ContourGuy9817 said:
well for a little bit more money i HIGHLY recommend a TCE kit with the 12.2 rotor and the ndl caliper, i can fit my 16x6.5 inch stock cougar sport wheels. 100-0 in like 4-5 seconds, i've definitely made people bite the windshield when they piss me off :)
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More info on the kit?
 
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