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Best Clutch for N/A 3L ..... ?

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CKtour98

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Mar 2, 2003
Messages
1,625
Location
Hamilton, ON
Ok so now that I have my new 3L, I need a new clutch. My previous Clutchnet Stg3 was grinding the rivets away after only 10,000kms or less...and no, I didn't break it in as I bought the car after that was already done, or so Ive been told.

So with full boltons, I am looking for something that can hold the power, and possibly more reliable lol. Ive been told Exedy clutch kits will hold it no problem, but I searched the forum and couldnt find any good info on them....so im open to everyones opinions on the best clutch...and no OEM either, as I plan to go F/I this winter.

Thanks!
 
I have the clutchnet stage 3 on my basically fully modded 3L and haven't had any problems, but it has only been 4k miles. As far as a clutch that will hold 3L turbo power I think the clutchnet stage 3 and spec stage 3 are the only choices (as far as I know), and we all know how bad the spec clutches are. The only clutchnet failure I have seen on here was I think trickers but he had 20k hard miles on it.

Edit: Did some searching and found that svttour just had one fail on him too, clutches are a PITA I guess.
 
Yeah, I know the past failures of Spec ones but it seems only them or Clutchnet make decent clutchs. My stg3 that failed was only on the flywheel side...it had no material left at all, the rivets were half grinded away too and wrecked my flywheel. The PP side still had material on it though, but the PP itself had 2 raised lips I guess on the top and bottom.
 
it sounds like perhaps it was slipping on the flywheel side. this could be caused by someone resurfacing the flywheel incorrectly. if that is the case, then whatever clutch you put in will do the same thing. of course, it could just have been improperly broken in as well.
 
Go with stock. They work just fine unless you are going F.I. I had a very similar set up to what you have listed (d2's and everything), and after the spec went out on it, I threw in a stock one. Worked great and help up to the power.
 
CKtour98 said:
and no OEM either, as I plan to go F/I this winter.
Click to expand...
Your post is confusing, in the subject line you ask for a clutch for N/A 3L, then your post states that you intend to go F/I. You can't have both. :shrug:

Clutchnet Red (PP and Disk) or Spec 3/3+ are really the only tested options with F/I in our application.
 
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Redlineracer12 said:
Your post is confusing, in the subject line you ask for a clutch for N/A 3L, then your post states that you intend to go F/I. You can't have both. :shrug:

Clutchnet Red (PP and Disk) or Spec 3/3+ are really the only tested options with F/I in our application.
Click to expand...



Obviously...I mean right NOW I'm a N/A bolt on 3L, with my plan being to go F/I in the winter. SO, I'm looking for a clutch that will hold the power NOW, and possibly be good for F/I so I don't need to do a clutch again in a few months..

I believe the last guy reused the flywheel on the new clutch so that may have been the issue. I have a new one now.
 
It seems like every single aftermarket clutch that has been released in the last 4-5 years for these cars have failed. Either by poor materials or poor design. 10K miles also seems to be around the time for them to go boom. TRicker did drive his hard...and for him getting the amount of power that he did, his 20K miles seems rather good.

Personally, I would go with clutchnet over Spec. Spec had waaaaaaaay more failures recently vs clutchnet.
 
Opinions on these 3 stage 2 clutchnet disks........

1: http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=10343&cat=161&page=1 : SPORT, "FIBER-CARBON" SPRUNG HUB CLUTCH DISC
fiber_carbon_sprung01.jpg


2. http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=11367&cat=161&page=1 : SPORT, "KEVLAR" ® SPRUNG HUB CLUTCH DISC KEVLAR®
kevlar_sprung01.jpg


3. http://www.clutchnet.com/product.php?productid=9319&cat=161&page=1 : "SMOOTH LOCK" MARCEL SPRUNG HUB CLUTCH DISC
organic_sprung01.jpg





I dont know much about these, so whats the big difference with them? Obviously the material, but I dont know what the difference in feeling , pedal effort, or performance would be...first 2 are $195, the last one is $145.
 
I have the 3rd disc you are looking at and it has held up for 30k miles so far with mixed driving and track use. My cluctch gives a moan every once in a while, but besides that has worked great. If I replace mine I will probably use the disk in the first or second picture. With the FI you plan on adding I would completely forget about the 3rd disc.
 
tigerbalm said:
With the FI you plan on adding I would completely forget about the 3rd disc.
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That's what I was thinking too. It's organic material like stock right?

I'd go with the first one if you want it to hold more power, or the 3rd one if you just want a stock upgrade. I'd avoid Kevlar just because of all the glazing issues I've heard about with it, but have never actually run one.
 
Redlineracer12 said:
That's what I was thinking too. It's organic material like stock right?

I'd avoid Kevlar just because of all the glazing issues I've heard about with it, but have never actually run one.
Click to expand...

I'vd heard about the glazing with kevlar too, but I wasn't sure if it was because of the Spec clutch materials.
 
I think I'm leaning towards the 1st one anyways, I am not familiar at all with kevlar and like said above, I read issues with it glazing and what not so ill stay away from that. If I end up boosting it, ill probably do a new clutch again since it will be over a year from now minimum before that happens. so what I want, is something good to hold say, 250whp, to be safe. If the 3rd disc can do that, its the more cost effective option for sure. Otherwise, the 1st one will probably be the one I go for
 
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