First I had to replace connector C371 (8 gauge red and 12 gauge green) because it melted. The new connector melted so I just used spade terminals to replace it. Well, now instead of melting at the connector it melted the 30 amp fuse into the box (fuse 37 I think) and smoke rolled up from under the dash. I'm about to just wire in a relay to bypass the fuse box for the blower but I'm worried that might cause a fire since after I fixed the connector it just melted the fuse. Has anyone else had this issue? I noticed many of the connectors at the junkyard had burnt wires and melted connectors as well so maybe this is something with a TSB out. It is something that should have been a recall. I'll have to replace the fuse box when I get home but only if anyone knows why it does this and can be fixed. I'm not sure if the resistor is the issue (although I only notice issue when running wide open and that wouldn't be the resistor) or if the blower is drawing more current then it should. The blower seems to be running at the speed it should run so maybe this is just Ford under-designing something again.
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Anyone else have trouble with the fuse box melting from the heater blower?
- Thread starter ZX2Fast
- Start date
'maybe this is just Ford under-designing something again.'
Bingo. More cost cutting bull••••. The metal connector has too little cross-section to handle the power flow there. Same as you, I found almost every one in the yard with varying amounts of melting going on there. Add to that the closed in area around it that has no air circulation and melt city.
Bingo. More cost cutting bull••••. The metal connector has too little cross-section to handle the power flow there. Same as you, I found almost every one in the yard with varying amounts of melting going on there. Add to that the closed in area around it that has no air circulation and melt city.
Smalls
Addicted CEG'er
the under-dash fuse panel in my svt once melted when i had Max AC on full blast.
Even with a relay wired in and the fuse held in by large spade connectors, anything over low speed makes the fuse get really damn hot. I also noticed I don't have a second fan speed, but that is probably the resistor. I thought I might have a bad ground but one would think the fan speed would be compromised if the fan had a bad ground.
Well, I am having the exact same issue in my 97 Contour SE. The connector you are referring to, is partially melted and works intermittently, shutting off the blower motor at times, other times smelling like burnt plastic. It took me days to figure out the cause of the problem the first time, unsuccessfully swapping fuse, switch, resistor and motor... until I discovered that burned connector and wiggled it a few times.
Today, I made a new discovery, which could save a few tows to some. I was planning on doing what you did later today, which is using spade terminals to replaced the melted plug and I had temporarily disconnected it. This morning I was unable to start the car and the fuel pump was not making its usual noise before starting the engine. It came back on after I reconnected the melted plug: The fuel pump is getting its power from that faulty connector as well! (although its fuse and relay are in the engine compartment fuse box) Yikes! This could have lots of bad consequences.
I had assumed these 2 wires were specific to the fan blower. (maybe the green, unburnt one is the one feeding the fuel pump)
So, before anyone out there goes and replaces their fuel pump, check your C371 connector first. (especially if you're also having issues with your blower motor!)
Melted relay connectors
Melted relay connectors
I have not diagnosed as far as finding the connector with the issue, but the relay socket for the heater blower has melting connectors in my fuse box, and I have 2.6V reliably at the heater blower (and fuse 37).
Digging deeper. No smoke yet, but I recon there will be smoke or fire this week!
Was thinking about a replacement fuse panel. $$!
Erbid
'98 SVT
Generic fuel pump stuffed into original assembly.
Melted relay connectors
I have not diagnosed as far as finding the connector with the issue, but the relay socket for the heater blower has melting connectors in my fuse box, and I have 2.6V reliably at the heater blower (and fuse 37).
Digging deeper. No smoke yet, but I recon there will be smoke or fire this week!
Was thinking about a replacement fuse panel. $$!
Erbid
'98 SVT
Generic fuel pump stuffed into original assembly.
compudude86
CEG'er
I noticed the same problem on a ford escort, the connector was already gone, past owner put on a spade, spade and wire melted. I replaced it with a beefier spade and cut out and replaced the bad section of wire, and it almost burned the car down the final time. Shop said the resistor went bad, after they replaced the resistor no more melt. im guessing they just suck as much juice as possible when they fail.
Looking to pull the fuse box and look at the wires. Is it hard to get it (fuse box, after 2 pigtails from wiring harness pulled) out?
Would like to make an external relay and fuse for the heater blower, unless something else has a fuse from that relay, I'd like to pull it and keep it out.
Erbid
Would like to make an external relay and fuse for the heater blower, unless something else has a fuse from that relay, I'd like to pull it and keep it out.
Erbid
Went deeper this time. Low current available at the heater fan relay. Low voltage found from there on in to the blower unless it is unplugged. Using a jumper instead of the relay yielded no net change.
Unplugging both "gang" plugs from the panel and checking for continuity from the power contact of the blower relay to the gang plugs yielded continuity on about 6 to 10 different pins. I'm thinking the panel is bad. It can not supply power to the blower relay with enough current to spin the fan. And it seems to have at least 6 different pins to pull it from! However, if I can isolate the correct pin, I'd like to see whether the correct wire can supply enough amps to spin the blower motor.
Motor works great on a jumper from the battery, even through the fuse, switch, resistors and its own ground. All the speeds work fine. But I have to get power to the output terminal of the blower relay. Not enough power at the input to the relay.
I think I have proven the panel is bad, but want to verify enough power is available to the panel on the correct wire.
What connects the under dash panel to fuse 3 under the hood? I'd like to verify it can deliver enough current w/o a voltage drop. Don't want a fire later.
Erbid
Unplugging both "gang" plugs from the panel and checking for continuity from the power contact of the blower relay to the gang plugs yielded continuity on about 6 to 10 different pins. I'm thinking the panel is bad. It can not supply power to the blower relay with enough current to spin the fan. And it seems to have at least 6 different pins to pull it from! However, if I can isolate the correct pin, I'd like to see whether the correct wire can supply enough amps to spin the blower motor.
Motor works great on a jumper from the battery, even through the fuse, switch, resistors and its own ground. All the speeds work fine. But I have to get power to the output terminal of the blower relay. Not enough power at the input to the relay.
I think I have proven the panel is bad, but want to verify enough power is available to the panel on the correct wire.
What connects the under dash panel to fuse 3 under the hood? I'd like to verify it can deliver enough current w/o a voltage drop. Don't want a fire later.
Erbid
Working for now!
Working for now!
OK... I'm slow...
Tried to remove the fuse panel after unplugging the two big plugs... and found it can nearly be twisted and pulled out from under the dash (kinda snaps into supports for the hinge pins). However there were more wires on the other side! (The back... exposed under the dash when the panel is stowed/closed)
Sheesh....
Found the Red (10 Ga?) and Green (16 Ga?) pigtail and connector. It was melted in place, but came loose after a bit of prying. Yuck. Red wire's connector was "stuck open" and would not have sprung back to apply pressure on its mated connector. I scraped and cleaned the fuse panel connectors and mated 1/4" spade connectors. I crimped and soldered the connectors to short extensions, and put 3.5mm gold bullet connectors (60A) to connect them to the factory harness stubs left when I cut off the burned plug.
I have a fully functional heater fan now. I imagine I'll have less odd sounds from the antilock brakes too.
Must keep an eye on it for a while.
Thanks to all for the comments. I had wrongly imagined the red/green plug was part of the two connectors on the other side of the panel. The description was very good. I just constrained it to the front side of the fuse panel, and imagined there were no wires on the other side.
Working for now!
OK... I'm slow...
Tried to remove the fuse panel after unplugging the two big plugs... and found it can nearly be twisted and pulled out from under the dash (kinda snaps into supports for the hinge pins). However there were more wires on the other side! (The back... exposed under the dash when the panel is stowed/closed)
Sheesh....
Found the Red (10 Ga?) and Green (16 Ga?) pigtail and connector. It was melted in place, but came loose after a bit of prying. Yuck. Red wire's connector was "stuck open" and would not have sprung back to apply pressure on its mated connector. I scraped and cleaned the fuse panel connectors and mated 1/4" spade connectors. I crimped and soldered the connectors to short extensions, and put 3.5mm gold bullet connectors (60A) to connect them to the factory harness stubs left when I cut off the burned plug.
I have a fully functional heater fan now. I imagine I'll have less odd sounds from the antilock brakes too.
Must keep an eye on it for a while.
Thanks to all for the comments. I had wrongly imagined the red/green plug was part of the two connectors on the other side of the panel. The description was very good. I just constrained it to the front side of the fuse panel, and imagined there were no wires on the other side.
CSVT#49
Addicted CEG'er
To all of you guys with this issue... there was a recall by Ford on this problem. Here is the link from the old archives... Ford Recall 99M07
Make sure you get the updated part from Ford as this is most likely the cause of your problem
Make sure you get the updated part from Ford as this is most likely the cause of your problem
Last edited:
That recall covers only connections at the resistor, which can burn and melt too. The problem is also at the inside fusebox several feet away from the recall parts.
'REASON FOR THIS PROGRAM
In some of the affected vehicles, the blower switch or resistor may develop increased resistance which could potentially prevent the blower from operating on some speeds. '
'Ford Motor will only refund for owner-paid repairs to the blower switch, resistor and ATTACHED wire connectors '
Caps are mine. No mention of inside fusebox there at all.
'REASON FOR THIS PROGRAM
In some of the affected vehicles, the blower switch or resistor may develop increased resistance which could potentially prevent the blower from operating on some speeds. '
'Ford Motor will only refund for owner-paid repairs to the blower switch, resistor and ATTACHED wire connectors '
Caps are mine. No mention of inside fusebox there at all.
Indyhiggie
New CEG'er
1998 Contour 4cyl here. I've read as many blower failure related posts as I can, and am seeking one more piece of information.
My car (owned for ~6 years) has had the Blower Resistor Connector Repair Kit # F5RZ-14A411-CA. installed, There seems to be no blown fuses, passenger cabin, or engine area junction box, I've also swapped several relays with no success. Last year I had the melted 10ga red, 16 ga green wire plug issue, and had to try 5 cars in the pick a part yard to find one that wasn't already melted. Spliced in a frash plug, and was fine until recently, defrost in winter, cold AC this summer.
Now wile both those wires are hot pasty the splice side, there is no power to the blower relay (I also tried two back up panel switches that I grabbed for any future issue from very clean donor cars, with no luck)
Finally my actual question as the 10ga red, 16 ga green wires pass into the fuse block, is there a picture of the fuse / relay side of the block where I know which female contact to test for power? If I read the post below correctly, it isn't necessarily lined up on the opposite side of the fuse block.
Thanks in advance for any instruction/image available!!
My car (owned for ~6 years) has had the Blower Resistor Connector Repair Kit # F5RZ-14A411-CA. installed, There seems to be no blown fuses, passenger cabin, or engine area junction box, I've also swapped several relays with no success. Last year I had the melted 10ga red, 16 ga green wire plug issue, and had to try 5 cars in the pick a part yard to find one that wasn't already melted. Spliced in a frash plug, and was fine until recently, defrost in winter, cold AC this summer.
Now wile both those wires are hot pasty the splice side, there is no power to the blower relay (I also tried two back up panel switches that I grabbed for any future issue from very clean donor cars, with no luck)
Finally my actual question
as the 10ga red, 16 ga green wires pass into the fuse block, is there a picture of the fuse / relay side of the block where I know which female contact to test for power? If I read the post below correctly, it isn't necessarily lined up on the opposite side of the fuse block.Thanks in advance for any instruction/image available!!
Working for now!
OK... I'm slow...
Tried to remove the fuse panel after unplugging the two big plugs... and found it can nearly be twisted and pulled out from under the dash (kinda snaps into supports for the hinge pins). However there were more wires on the other side! (The back... exposed under the dash when the panel is stowed/closed)
Sheesh....
Found the Red (10 Ga?) and Green (16 Ga?) pigtail and connector. It was melted in place, but came loose after a bit of prying. Yuck. Red wire's connector was "stuck open" and would not have sprung back to apply pressure on its mated connector. I scraped and cleaned the fuse panel connectors and mated 1/4" spade connectors. I crimped and soldered the connectors to short extensions, and put 3.5mm gold bullet connectors (60A) to connect them to the factory harness stubs left when I cut off the burned plug.
I have a fully functional heater fan now. I imagine I'll have less odd sounds from the antilock brakes too.
Must keep an eye on it for a while.
Thanks to all for the comments. I had wrongly imagined the red/green plug was part of the two connectors on the other side of the panel. The description was very good. I just constrained it to the front side of the fuse panel, and imagined there were no wires on the other side.
Indyhiggie
New CEG'er
1998 Contour 4cyl here. I've read as many blower failure related posts as I can, and am seeking for one more piece of information.
My car (owned for ~6 years) has had the Blower Resistor Connector Repair Kit # F5RZ-14A411-CA, before I got the car. installed, There seems to be no blown fuses, passenger cabin, or engine bay junction box, I've also swapped several relays with no success. Last year I had the melted 10ga red, 16 ga green wire plug issue, and had to try 5 cars in the pick a part yard to find one that wasn't already melted. Spliced in a fresh plug, and was fine until recently, defrost in winter, cold AC this summer.
Now wile both the red and green wires are hot past my splices, there is no power to the blower resistor (I also tried two back up dash panel switches that I grabbed for any future issue from very clean donor cars, with no luck)
Finally my actual question as the 10ga red, 16 ga green wires pass into the fuse block, is there a picture of the fuse / relay side of the block where I know which female contact to test for power? Under which relay? If I read the post below correctly, it isn't necessarily lined up on the opposite side of the fuse block.
To ask another way:
Is the 10ga red a hot feed to the fuse block, or a hot out of the fuse block, and for what functions?
Is the16 ga green wire a hot feed to the fuse block, or a hot out of the fuse block, and for what functions?
Thanks in advance for any instruction/image available!!
My car (owned for ~6 years) has had the Blower Resistor Connector Repair Kit # F5RZ-14A411-CA, before I got the car. installed, There seems to be no blown fuses, passenger cabin, or engine bay junction box, I've also swapped several relays with no success. Last year I had the melted 10ga red, 16 ga green wire plug issue, and had to try 5 cars in the pick a part yard to find one that wasn't already melted. Spliced in a fresh plug, and was fine until recently, defrost in winter, cold AC this summer.
Now wile both the red and green wires are hot past my splices, there is no power to the blower resistor (I also tried two back up dash panel switches that I grabbed for any future issue from very clean donor cars, with no luck)
Finally my actual question
as the 10ga red, 16 ga green wires pass into the fuse block, is there a picture of the fuse / relay side of the block where I know which female contact to test for power? Under which relay? If I read the post below correctly, it isn't necessarily lined up on the opposite side of the fuse block.To ask another way:
Is the 10ga red a hot feed to the fuse block, or a hot out of the fuse block, and for what functions?
Is the16 ga green wire a hot feed to the fuse block, or a hot out of the fuse block, and for what functions?
Thanks in advance for any instruction/image available!!
Working for now!
OK... I'm slow...
Tried to remove the fuse panel after unplugging the two big plugs... and found it can nearly be twisted and pulled out from under the dash (kinda snaps into supports for the hinge pins). However there were more wires on the other side! (The back... exposed under the dash when the panel is stowed/closed)
Sheesh....
Found the Red (10 Ga?) and Green (16 Ga?) pigtail and connector. It was melted in place, but came loose after a bit of prying. Yuck. Red wire's connector was "stuck open" and would not have sprung back to apply pressure on its mated connector. I scraped and cleaned the fuse panel connectors and mated 1/4" spade connectors. I crimped and soldered the connectors to short extensions, and put 3.5mm gold bullet connectors (60A) to connect them to the factory harness stubs left when I cut off the burned plug.
I have a fully functional heater fan now. I imagine I'll have less odd sounds from the antilock brakes too.
Must keep an eye on it for a while.
Thanks to all for the comments. I had wrongly imagined the red/green plug was part of the two connectors on the other side of the panel. The description was very good. I just constrained it to the front side of the fuse panel, and imagined there were no wires on the other side.
I have no answer for your direct questions but......................you should know that you can test as good on those wires and blower still won't work. The problem I had. The connection at the fusebox will test as good with a meter but not carry enough current to run the motor. Check motor with 12 volts by itself, tells you motor is good. You should know too that Ford flipflops the motor/resistor relationship all over the map, one year the blower motor is the end of circuit and grounds and the next the resistor is end of circuit and grounds, it changes everything. '98 model is power goes to blower then to resistor and then grounds after resistor.
IIRC the red wire is the one, it has such a small footprint inside the fusebox that it melts with any heavy use at the metal connector, the connection there being smaller than the wire gauge. Like so many other over-engineered things Ford does now that sells lots of parts for them.
Don't be surprised if it has melted again in the same place. I went through like 50 of them back in my day looking for a good one, they pretty much ALL melt.
IIRC the red wire is the one, it has such a small footprint inside the fusebox that it melts with any heavy use at the metal connector, the connection there being smaller than the wire gauge. Like so many other over-engineered things Ford does now that sells lots of parts for them.
Don't be surprised if it has melted again in the same place. I went through like 50 of them back in my day looking for a good one, they pretty much ALL melt.