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after 175 miles 3l swap

T

tomslf

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Messages
41
Location
Arizona
Ok, my shifter was super sloppy and grinding in second and 3rd. fixed the bushing and tried some adjustment to the cable that controls big black think on transmission. That fixed most of the sloppy shifter feel and 2nd is now golden but third will grind unless I go into third at about 1600 to 1800 rpm. My shifter does seem to have up and down play while in gears but side to side is really good.
Do you think this is bad syncros or more adjustment?

Now since driving 100 miles the car seems to run pretty good, has some great power.
I had my cpu flashed with a sct chip. The guy that did the chip added 2 different maps and i have been going back and forth. I have some codes to report and to search on. I will clear codes and drive 100 miles and report what comes up on each two settings.
Here are the codes i have now

P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2

P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

P1401 DPFE? dont know what this one is

P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
also P0175 from time to time

After another 50 miles I have had some surging at coasting speeds. Also, when cruising around 50-60 car sometimes dies when I come to a stop like it cant catch its idle. Last thing as of now, is at low rpm when I press the gas the lights get a little brighter and as car idles low lights dim just a bit

After some looking and messing with stuff I have noticed that I will get all the codes on both chip settings and with the chip off of car I get 1401 right away
I'm assuming its a vacuum leak somewhere or leaky injector possibly because of the bad gas mileage
 
If your trans wasnt doing that before, you need to adjust more. Make sure the shifter is in the middle when connecting the cables.

Check the o2 sensors. I would return the tune to stock with stock injectors and get all the CELs figured out, besides the obvious ones that come with doing an oval port swap if thats what you have.
 
I bought the car broken and fixed it before I did the 3l swap. I only drove it around the block before I started the swap. I don't think 3rd gear grinded before but I never drove the car enough to know if did grind before the swap. The shifter has very little side to side play after some adjustment but it feels like there is a lot of up and down movement in every gear.
Regarding the O2 sensor, the check engine light wasn't on before I did the 3l swap but once again I only drove it around the block.
i just dont know where to start, I took the chip off but the drive-ability is horrible compared to the chip being on so I haven't driven the car without chip. Somewhere I searched I ran across someone saying their car lights would dim at low idle and then get brighter upon gas, someone answered them it might be a vacuum leak. My car is doing the same thing.
I can play with the vacuum lines, but I dont hear any hissing so I'm not sure if I am losing vacuum.
I have 30 lb injectors in the car the chip is calibrated for those. I am wondering if the injectors coming from my old mustang maybe they are leaking more fuel than they should.
 
P1151 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 2

P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Rich - Bank No. 2

P1401 DPFE? dont know what this one is

P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
also P0175 from time to time

Most of your codes point toward vacuum leaks. If it were me, rather than trying to pin-point a leak, I would tear down the top end, UIM, LIM, etc. and reinstall each piece very meticulously. So as to 100% eliminate those places as possible leaks. What 3L setup are you using? Full 3L, Port-matched? Once that is done, I would remove, inspect, reinstall all vac lines from the intake manifold to its designed location. Just my process for dealing with the issues you mentioned. Otherwise you can spend weeks trying to find something tiny.

DPFE is a sensor code. It's a silver (or black) box on the rear head, drivers side. Approx 2x3, it should have two high temp rubber tubes running from it to two metal ports on the EGR tube. If either of those is on the wrong port on the EGR or if they are missing you will get this code. If they are missing, it could also explain the oxygen sensor codes for the rear bank too. The tubes are slightly different sizes to help ensure they are connected to the right port on the EGR tube.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have a 99 contour with full 3l swap 83k on body and trans (hopefully since i bought car broken)
I took the uim off today and bought all new vac lines. I did notice that the wiring that runs in between the uim and lim is super tight and maybe making the uim not seal completely, is that possible? After I put everything back together today I started the car and it jumped up and down on revs then cel for p0401 came up right away again. Also, after driving it home I now also have p1132, but the dpfe codes are gone now that I hooked it up (no egr). I didnt think I needed the dpfe, I also thought it was suppose to be deleted in the tune. As of now, after I redid the uim and vac lines codes are p0401, p1132 & p1152.
 
Did you use new gaskets on the UIM? Also I would have the harness disconnected when bolting on the UIM to ensure that it is sealing. Also when you bolt down the UIM & LIM make sure you are tightening the bolts in the required sequence... which is basically starting with the middle bolts and working your way out. See the pics below... Torque is 8-12Nm. Disregard the orientation of the LIM as you should have it swapped with the fuel inlet on the otherside for the Contour application.

torquesequence2.jpg

torquesequence.jpg

limsequence2.jpg

limsequence.jpg
 
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i did do torque chart and spec correctly the gasket isnt new im planning on doing that in a couple days. what harness are you talking about even if i disconnect it, it doesn't really have anywhere to go.
 
tomslf said:
i did do torque chart and spec correctly the gasket isnt new im planning on doing that in a couple days. what harness are you talking about even if i disconnect it, it doesn't really have anywhere to go.
Click to expand...

Well it sounded like you were routing some harnesses fairly tight.. so I just suggested installing the harnesses after you have things installed. Obviously the injector harness has to be installed before the UIM so make sure it is installed correctly. New gaskets may be the ticket if you over torqued them or if they are the original gaskets that just got reused.
 
They are reused gaskets also there was some oily substance where the gasket goes when i took it off last time to check it.

would all the codes refer to just a vac leak?
 
Spray some carb cleaner around all the vac lines while its running, if you here the revs go up a little you have found a vac leak.
 
tomslf said:
They are reused gaskets also there was some oily substance where the gasket goes when i took it off last time to check it.

would all the codes refer to just a vac leak?
Click to expand...

1. Uninstall the LIM and UIM.
2. Clean the mounting surfaces
3. Replace the gaskets with NEW ones
4. Torque the LIM and UIM to the spec and sequence I provided above
5. Come back on here and thank us for our time ;)

All that said I'm fairly certain this is your problem, try this first and let us know if your problem persists. The gaskets are like $12.55 on RockAuto.com and $16.99 at Autozone... Fel-Pro MS925861. You should never reuse gaskets (unless they can be)... especially ones that are that most likely the original ones in an application like this.
 
I never opened up the lim should i replace the lower anyways and yes i have the gasket set in hand going to replace tomorrow and hope that it was the old gasket and try to wiring harness better fitting. thanks i will update asap
 
tomslf said:
I never opened up the lim should i replace the lower anyways and yes i have the gasket set in hand going to replace tomorrow and hope that it was the old gasket and try to wiring harness better fitting. thanks i will update asap
Click to expand...

If you never removed the LIM then there is no need to replace them. However if you bought the set, then might as well change them. Not like it's that much more work to unbolt the LIM.
 
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