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Adjustment on koni strut

SJon85

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
906
I have only put maybe 1k miles on my new koni struts. The other day when I was taking my axles out I found that the top nut on the drivers side strut would not come off after attempting all different kinds of things. The struts are on full hard right now and I just found that on the same strut the adjustment only makes about a half turn. I dont know if its because I was trying soo many things to get the bolt off but I dont see how anything could cause that adjustment to not turn inside there. Anyone else have this problem? I guess I should give koni a call.
 
How do you manage with a pair of wrenches? I've had such a hard time.

Yeah, the impact is the 'best' solution, but not available for most of CEG, hence the pass thru suggestion.
 
How do you manage with a pair of wrenches? I've had such a hard time.

Yeah, the impact is the 'best' solution, but not available for most of CEG, hence the pass thru suggestion.

18 or 19mm (cant remember which) open end for the bottom and a 9mm box end for the top. the larger wrench is not perfectly straight on obviously but it works well.

i understand not everyone has an impact but if you do any major work on cars its worth picking up a compressor and impact. other than that, the pass through sockets are a good choice as well.
 
I actually just invested in a compressor and 550tq impact, very nice to have. I tried soaking it in PB blaster and the impact gun and got no where. And for the adjustment it was making a half turn and now its completely solid, wont move at all. I also drove it yesterday and felt that the front doesn't ride like it did, seems kinda bouncy in that corner.
 
18 or 19mm (cant remember which) open end for the bottom and a 9mm box end for the top. the larger wrench is not perfectly straight on obviously but it works well.

i understand not everyone has an impact but if you do any major work on cars its worth picking up a compressor and impact. other than that, the pass through sockets are a good choice as well.

It's an 18mm for the top nut if you reuse the stock one on top... I just did this so I remember it rather easy :D

You can also use a crow's foot to tight/loosen the top retaining nut, and put a 6 point deepwell on the top of the strut to keep it from turning. I bought a set of metric "flare nut" type crow's feet from Sears just for this purpose. They were expensive but worth it.



Shannon
 
Well after trying an impact gun, heat, pb blaster, and crowfoots this bolt still hasn't moved at all. I put it on using channel locks to hold the bolt and a 9mm deep socket on the strut to tighten it just like I did on the other side that came off no problem. Looks as if I will have to cut it off somehow therefore voiding the warranty on the strut, just great. I wonder if I can somehow melt the strut mount causing it to loosen up the tension on the bolt. Any suggestions from the CEG pros?
 
when you tried the impact gun, did you just pull the trigger and lay on it? if so, try giving it lots of short, quick bursts instead.
 
make sure that the strut isnt hanging so that the upper plate isnt putting extra pressure on the nut. last resort you could probably carefully cut out the very inner section of the top plate so that the strut can be removed, then you can get a real wrench on both the strut and nut to remove it.
 
Good point striker, I need to support the bottom of the strut. Will do that as soon as I get time.
 
Well I ended up cutting the strut off. Tried some wrenches and again got no where. Its stuck on there to the point of the top of the strut is starting to strip because I am wrenching on it soo hard. Also all the fluid comes out of the top of the strut when I pull the shaft out of the base. Tomorrow I am going to call Koni and see what they say about it. Here's a pic

154138_1235696229135_1731110937_447018_5107914_n.jpg
 
looking at those threads on the top it looks like the nut is cross threaded (or the wrong pitch nut was used). a cross threaded nut would most certainly cause you difficulties in removing it from the strut.
 
In this pic you can see a little better that its not cross threaded.

155368_1235752710547_1731110937_447122_7873817_n.jpg
 
Here is why this bolt wouldn't come off. And I have no clue what caused this to happen. Will be interesting to see what koni says about it. And all the damage on those threads is from the process of cutting the bolt off.

165761_1246696944146_1731110937_467185_6546629_n.jpg


167659_1246696784142_1731110937_467184_1915832_n.jpg
 
Yea GC. Are you thinking when I had it really low for a lil while it put soo much vertical pressure on the strut causing it to do this?
 
no, i dont think the height has any real relevance, although being excessively low might. I think its actually how the setup transfers force through the components that causes problems. when the weight is transfered to the strut, it wants to push on the outside of the upper mount (where a standard spring would sit). however with GCs, there is nothing on the outside to push against, just the very center. going to low might make this worse as there will actually be more weight transfer due to the longer than stock roll couple (length between the center of gravity and the roll center).
 
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