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98 Ford Csvt Dyno Numbers From Yesterday

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allstyle12

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May 5, 2006
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Yesterday I made 2 runs on a Dyno Dynamics Dynamometer and have to say I am dissapointed. The shop I went to specializes in Mustangs.

First run I put down 167.3 HP and 142 FTLBTQ at 6200 rpm without the spray. Second run with my 75 shot I put down 229.0 HP and 192 FTLBTQ at 6200 rpm. I thought I would be putting around 180 to the wheels without spray and 240-250 with it. My mods consist of:

-Throttle body (Butterfly mod)
-No resonator
-Modified stock intake (K&N drop in) with no snorkel
-TR6 NGK spark plugs
-Stock Clutch
-Dry Nitrous kit 75 shot

Am I ok with these mods? Are there other dynos that produce different values?

I will post a pic of the dyno sheet(s) tomorrow sometime for your viewing.

Thanks,

Allstyle
 
with out the spray those seem like pretty typical stock SVT numbers ... torque seems alittle low but not bad, also those mods are not going to give you much of any power if at all ... definately not going to give you 180 at the wheel off the spray ...

seems like a good starting point
 
allstyle12 said:
First run I put down 167.3 HP and 142 FTLBTQ at 6200 rpm .

-Throttle body (Butterfly mod)
-No resonator
-Modified stock intake (K&N drop in) with no snorkel
-Dry Nitrous kit 75 shot
Click to expand...


The above is your list, including only things that will improve performance.

The TB mod will net you maybe, MAYBE 1.5 hp. Your throttle response will improve, but power is not something to expect from this.
The drop in might gain you 1-3, IF you don't have a restrictive exhaust, or failing cats, etc

Take a 17% loss from the 195 at the crank you should have, and you get:
161hp expected at the wheels, and ~140 ft/lbs of torque.
Add in the 1.5, and the 3 (to be nice) and you have SURPASSED what I would have expected you to pull on your VERY VERY VERY VERY mildly modified (read: bone stock with a drop in) 98.

Be pleased.
 
Considering the only true mods that will net you hp are your throttle body (which will probably gain you less than 1 hp), K&N drop in, and removed resonator (again not much hp gain with this), id say your probably right on par. Torque does seem a bit low though. Probably need to open up the exhaust. Put on some headers and a catback and youll be close to 180 whp.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments. I will be going to the track soon to get a few 1/4 mile runs under my belt. I am hoping I will be in the low 15's without the spray and mid 14's with. I will be trying very hard to get low 60ft times. Lowest time I got on my Gtech was 2.4, but who knows how accurate those things are.

What is the difference between a DynoJet dyno and a Dyno Dynamics dyno? Do they display different values? Are they designed differently?

Thanks again
 
Dyno Dynamics dynos are among the lowest reading dynos out there. Almost everyone is disappointed on those. They are great for tuning, however, because of their loading ability. Ive posted my DD dynos on here a few times, and they are low too.

I wouldnt sweat it.
 
My car was dynoed on the dynapack dynos,the ones that attach to the hub of your wheel, and I got a lot lower than what you came out with and i have a good amount of mods for the exception of headers and a tune I have the other basic bolt ons....so I would be very happy if I were you.....On a side note does anyone know anything about the dynopacks and why the read so low?
 
all a dry 75 shot is gonna do is make your car run lean. you are not getting 75 HP from the nitrous because your not giving the engine any more fuel to ignite! that's the beauty of nitrous, dry kits are just plain dangerous!
 
TRicker said:
all a dry 75 shot is gonna do is make your car run lean. you are not getting 75 HP from the nitrous because your not giving the engine any more fuel to ignite! that's the beauty of nitrous, dry kits are just plain dangerous!
Click to expand...

TRicker, please refrain from giving advice, because you flat out suck at it. I've tried being nice..... ok, not really.... but this last post just set me over the edge. Do you honestly think the computer isn't making any adjustments, and adding fuel? Are you seriously THAT ignorant? Dry nitrous kits have been around longer than you've been born, and they haven't pulled them from the shelves? Why do you think that is TRicker? Wait, don't answer that because your posts do nothing but misinform, the already misinformed. :nonono:

Mark
 
I also failed to mention that my bottle pressure was at 800 psi (cold bottle). I don't have a bottle warmer. I might think about investing in one. I am thinking I probably could of gained a few more ponies if I had 900 psi. Does anybody want to make an educated guess before I go back to the dyno on what I might of put down with full pressure?

Oh, and one more mod I failed to mention, the y pipe mod.

Thanks,

Allstyle
 
Y2KSVT please explain how the computer can correct the air/fuel mixture fast enough to prevent detonation, which may not ruin an engine quickly but will take its toll on a piston. have you seen a dusted piston? other than someone elses picture? probably not. because you have never ruined an engine due to being lean. it doesnt have to ruin a cylinder to ruin a piston, and the engine would run until it made a full hole in the piston. yes, i do suck at giving advice, but i apparently do not suck at nitrous, because i have basically the same mods as this guy and the same HP shot of nitrous yet i make about 60HP more at this moment. hmmmmmmm /slap sucker
 
TRicker said:
Y2KSVT please explain how the computer can correct the air/fuel mixture fast enough to prevent detonation
Click to expand...

Nitrous or N/A.. the "computer" corrects fuel supply based on air volume and efficiency to prevent detonation at ALL TIMES.

Having nitrous isn't asking to computer to do something that it normally DOESN'T. It is just shifting the scale to the high end. If the computer couldn't correct fuel supply to prevent detonation with nitrous, then it wouldn't be able to do so with the, uh... AIR, either.

Its a BASIC PRINCIPLE of proper engine operation on OBD equipped cars. PERIOD. Nitrous, or not.. it does it all day, every day.

what was your point, again?

/UN-slap?? :nonono: :)
 
the computer cannot give the car enough fuel when you go from an air that is being read at a said level, down to the extremely cold atmosphere that nitrous makes. it will adjust, but not fast enough. it causes lean bog on an engine that isnt tuned for it. it will try to give enough fuel, eventually it will. but for about 1-2 seconds when you use the nitrous, the car runs lean. this can cause a horrible burn which spreads too rapidly and can even combust fully way before it is supposed to. this is also why you are supposed to retard your timing. it's not going to blow his motor up.......yet.

people like that guy are the ones giving nitrous a bad name. go ahead and put it on your car, ray. (i know your not that unintelligent, you would use a wet shot)
 
TRicker said:
go ahead and put it on your car, ray.
Click to expand...

I think I'm "almost" happy where I am, as it is.

(i know your not that unintelligent, you would use a wet shot)
Click to expand...
There are intelligent ways to run both wet and dry configurations. Simply choosing one or the other is not an unintelligent thing.

Running EITHER without the proper tuning, background, or base knowledge to properly execute it (be it WET OR DRY) is unintelligent. Do it right, and you can run either. There are different methods and steps required, depending on which one you are running, but EITHER can be smart.
 
allstyle12 said:
I also failed to mention that my bottle pressure was at 800 psi (cold bottle). I don't have a bottle warmer. I might think about investing in one. I am thinking I probably could of gained a few more ponies if I had 900 psi. Does anybody want to make an educated guess before I go back to the dyno on what I might of put down with full pressure?

Oh, and one more mod I failed to mention, the y pipe mod.

Thanks,

Allstyle
Click to expand...

ok if you have an optimized y-pipe then something is wrong, you should be getting more torque
 
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