• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

95 Contour. New Ball joints. Now tire noise

pjw73nh

New CEG'er
Joined
May 4, 2008
Messages
21
Location
NH
Greetings,

Brief history: 95 Contour, 230 k miles. 12 k miles ago, put in left tie rod end. Had vehicle aligned. Drove well. 3 months and 2k mils later, would not pass inspection. Needed new ball joints. I saw them. they were VERY worn. At least 1/4 to 3/8 inch vertical play in them. I replaced them with a lower grade BJ from a local jobber. When I got the veh back together, the front tires were pointing inward (Excess toe in). The car handled like crap and if I turned too far in either direction, the car would just "motorboat" chatter and go straight regardless of turn. I had it aligned agoin by the first guy that aligned it. He said his tech should've found the bad ball joints before the alignment. He re-did it the alignment at no charge. Car has been driving perfect since. No tire wear, great handling etc.

While doing an LOF a month ago, I noticed when I greased one of the ball joints, that grease was coming out around the BOTTOM of the sealed metal bottom. IE the lower cover (where the grease fitting threads into, was loosened from the cast body of the ball joint). Clearly I am thinking it is a defective ball joint. I also noticed excessive vertical play again. After only a few 14 k miles or so. Seems like short life for a ball joint. The other ball joint was intact, but had excessive vertical play as well. Both were bad. The jobber allowed my to return them under warranty towards the purchase price of the next better quality ball joints. I put them in this weekend. The job was relatively easy and without incident.

When I got finished, the car runs and handles fine, but the almost any turns right or left, at any speed above 15 or so MPH, and it sounds like the tires are squealing. if I close the windows, it sounds like air/wind noise. It happens right or left. it is REALLY noticeable on a rotary (or roundabout) as some people call them.

Tire pressure is fine, and this is definitely a result of the replacement ball joints. The car was NOT making ANY such noise before hand. The parts were the correct replacements. They looked identical to the old ones, and I called another parts place to confirm the part number.

Could it be that it just needs an alignment? Again!!!.

How does this sound for a theory: (going out on a limb here). The frame or some other components in the front are bad/bent. With new ball joints, they are under stress. As the new ball joints wear, they compensate for the bad/bent part and find their "happy, un-stressful" point. I Know. Out on a limb, but I am at a loss. Chalk it up to a pair of defective ball joints?.. I could understand the originals wearing out after 215k miles. But the second set only after 14k?

Should I spring for an alignment?

Thoughts:

Thanks

P...
 
it is certainly because of alignment.
whenever any part of suspension is change, even if it is exactly the same brand as before, the wheels should be aligned again.
 
Bobdorit,

You were correct, the alignment uncovered some worn LCA bushings, but he did the best he could to align it and now the tire noise is gone. There was excessive toe-in on one wheel.

Thanks.

Paul.../NH
 
On 95's the ball joint is a different part number, slightly thinner tapered section. Most part catalogs don't get it right. In some cases the spindle has been replaced and all replacement spindles from Ford are the new partnumber bored for the wider spindle. Seems OK when you install it but it will not hold in. If you drive it like this for to long (it may be too late already) the spindle gets worn and needs to be replaced. When you replace it the new part uses the new larger taper so the ball joint needs to be replaced again.

In my case I went through 4 ball joints and a spindle before I got it right but now its fine.
 
There was excessive toe-in on one wheel.

That is impossible on the front wheels of a car. Total toe is split between BOTH wheels. I would find a new mechanic because this one is spouting BS. Anyone qualified to do an alignment knows this simple fact.
 
That is impossible on the front wheels of a car. Total toe is split between BOTH wheels. I would find a new mechanic because this one is spouting BS. Anyone qualified to do an alignment knows this simple fact.

Toe in can be on one wheel. The correct procedure is to center the steering rack (wheel) and adjust each wheel. If one wheel is out it is the one that should be fixed.
 
No. You can adjust rack length (total toe) or individual tie rod length, which centers the steering wheel. If the toe is in or out on one wheel, as soon as you drive the car the steering wheel recenters and splits the difference, making it on both wheels.

On rear wheels it is possible to have one wheel toed in or out.
 
No. You can adjust rack length (total toe) or individual tie rod length, which centers the steering wheel. If the toe is in or out on one wheel, as soon as you drive the car the steering wheel recenters and splits the difference, making it on both wheels.

On rear wheels it is possible to have one wheel toed in or out.
:nonono: explain this, hunter screen can show negitive toe on one side and positive on the other and just driving the car does not center the wheel
 
What he means is that when car driven, wheels will tend to center the error by steering wheel slightly moving one way or other from rolling friction. That statement not totally true though, if one is really far out, the linkage will recenter only until one tire starts really scrubbing hard at angle. Then friction will force one tire to give to the other and you end up with a true one tire toed more than the other condition. You still could correct by possibly moving ONE SIDE ONLY. I also disagree with the rear wheel statement, if toe off one side, car will slightly drift one way or the other sideways to try to equalize that in the exact same fashion. The tire with most toe will have enough friction to drag back and push car toward centerline as the straighter tire gives to a certain point. Car will then go down the road slightly crooked. You can see that effect by driving over a water puddle in say a nice flat parking lot in a park. Drive through it as straight as possible and get out and check the rear tire tracking. If toe is off, one rear tread track will not be over the front one in exactly the same place. Meaning rear end not quite centered over the front.
 
Back
Top