3L plans

[trhlz1222]

well im starting to purchase the things to put together my motor. i was just wondering if this list is needed or are these just tools that are recommended for the build?


Tools:
Rotunda Tool Set - Essential
T94P-6136-AH Connecting Rod Guides
T94P-6256-AH Camshaft Seal Protector
T94P-6256-BH Camshaft Seal Replacer
T94P-6256-DH Camshaft Damper Replacer
T94P-6312-AH Water Pump Pulley Remover/Replacer
T94P-6312-BH Water Inlet Tube Replacer
T94P-6510-BH Valve Guide Replacer Adapter
T94P-6510-CH Valve Stem Seal Replacer
T94P-6256-CH Camshaft Alignment Triming Tool
T94P-6510-AH Valve Stem Seal Remover
T94P-6510-DH Valve Guide Replacer Adapter
T94P-6565-AH Valve Spring Compressor Adapter
T94P-4451-AH Measuring Fixture
T94P-4451-BH Differential Shim Selection Tool Adapter
T94P-7025-BH Multi-Bearing Cup Replacer
T94P-7025-CH Differential Drive Shaft Seal Replacer
T94P-7025-DH Selector Shaft Bearing Remover/Replacer
T94P-7025-EH Pinion Spline Socket
T94P-7025-FH Gear Lever Aligning Tool
T94P-7025-GH Differential Bearing Cone Replacer
T94P-7025-HH Selector Shaft Seal Remover/Replacer
T94P-2100-AH Sub Frame Alignment Pin Set
T94P-6000-AH Power Train Alignment Gauge Set
T94P-70010-AH Transmission Range Sensor Tool

 

[BAD SVT]

it does say 'tools' as the title. i'll tell u this much tho... we didnt need half of wots on that list. it looks like a detailed list for suspension, tranny, and motor swap. when i did mine, i don't remember using many of those tools anyway :shrug:

 

[trhlz1222]

heres my list of things to get for my build...hows it look? the things in green are things i already have. im tryin to push 350hp on a dd.



-3.0L motor
-SVT cams
-SVT UIM
-Clevite rod bearings

-Underdrive pulleys
-Nautilus turbo w/ intercooler -Nautilus LIM mod and fuel rail



Exhuast
-MSDS headers
-3” catback w/ magnaflow muffler
-Magnaflow dual #14832 mufflers

Transmission
-quaife LSD
-ball bearing shift forks
-synchros, bearings, rings
-Spec stage 1 or 3+ clutch
-Fidanza flywheel
-upgrade shiftower



-gauges and gauge pod

 

[Redlineracer12]

If you're planning on changing rod bearings you'll want new cap bolts as they are tty. You'll also want a bunch of gaskets like LIM, UIM, TB, EGR, IAC, Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, etc.

I'd shoot for more like the stage 3+ vs the stage 1 if you're planning on F/I.

I can't see anything in green though...

 

[trhlz1222]

i just noticed the green didnt show up.lol it did when i was putting it in. it doesnt matter. yea i knew all the gaskets. more worried about the big things to make sure my plans look right. wats tty? and for the stage 3+ thats the way i was swinging for ive just read and heard on here that its hard to drive as a dd and the stage 1 can hold up with 350

 

[BrApple]

i just noticed the green didnt show up.lol it did when i was putting it in. it doesnt matter. yea i knew all the gaskets. more worried about the big things to make sure my plans look right. wats tty? and for the stage 3+ thats the way i was swinging for ive just read and heard on here that its hard to drive as a dd and the stage 1 can hold up with 350

tty = torque to yield

also the stage 3 is hard to drive, the stage 3+ is suppost to feel more like stock when compaired to the stage 3, I am going with a stage 3+ personally

 

[trhlz1222]

thanks. where can i look to find prices and order things like the shift forks and other things for my tranny. i was able to find the clevite bearings. another question is for the exhaust do i need a turbo specific exhaust or will the trubenz 3" work fine. the reason for three mufflers is to help prevent raspy because right now it is very raspy while cold.

 

[BAD SVT]

thanks. where can i look to find prices and order things like the shift forks and other things for my tranny. i was able to find the clevite bearings. another question is for the exhaust do i need a turbo specific exhaust or will the trubenz 3" work fine. the reason for three mufflers is to help prevent raspy because right now it is very raspy while cold.

u have a couple of options actually. 1) u can send ur tranny to terry haines for a full rebuild with the updated parts n stuff or 2) buy the upgraded tranny parts from bill jenkins (702)395-5173 and install them on ur stock tranny or 3) get a new tranny from BAT as it already has the upgrades and install ur quaife. these 3 are all viable options. however, price is what separates them . if money isnt an issue, i'd take option 1. because time wasnt my friend, i had to settle for a stock cougar tranny without any upgrade parts. all i did was just install the quaife. still running fine.

EDIT- nautilus performance turbo is not exhaust specific. the only exhaust system i know it doesnt work for are tru duals.

 

[Reebs]

Spec stage 1 would never hold a boosted 3L. Not sure where you got that it holds up to 350 torque? Spec 1 shouldn't even be an option. It is slipping on rawburts 2.5 T. Stage 3+ is the way to go. That is what I had on my 3LT and it was fine for daily driving. I actually loved it. I don't like my stage 3 as much that I currently have, but no complaints because it still grabs just as hard. The stage 3 is the 6 puck disc which is just more on/off while the stage 3+ has a full face clutch disc mated with a stage 5 pressure plate which suprisingly makes for nice engagement while still grabbing hard as heck.

 

[trhlz1222]

u have a couple of options actually. 1) u can send ur tranny to terry haines for a full rebuild with the updated parts n stuff or 2) buy the upgraded tranny parts from bill jenkins (702)395-5173 and install them on ur stock tranny or 3) get a new tranny from BAT as it already has the upgrades and install ur quaife. these 3 are all viable options. however, price is what separates them . if money isnt an issue, i'd take option 1. because time wasnt my friend, i had to settle for a stock cougar tranny without any upgrade parts. all i did was just install the quaife. still running fine.

EDIT- nautilus performance turbo is not exhaust specific. the only exhaust system i know it doesnt work for are tru duals.

i was thinking of installing the upgrades in my stock tranny. any idea of the price differences would be between the three?

 

[BAD SVT]

i was thinking of installing the upgrades in my stock tranny. any idea of the price differences would be between the three?

the first option with terry haines will set u back ~$1200. and that doesnt include shipping the tranny to him.
the second option is the cheapest actually. its only about $200 for upgrade parts like shift fork, towers etc. the labor amt i was quoted at AAMCO transmissions was about $500 to install these parts. difference tho is terry does much more to the tranny, pretty much making it damage proof.
the third option with batinc.net will cost u about 800bucks iirc. the tranny has the upgrade parts.

and when i say upgrade parts, i mean the early tranny parts that were replaced with the 2000 model MTX75s n up. i would also do some research and double check these prices. they might've changed.

 

[trhlz1222]

is the differential part of the tranny. my dad tried to tell me its in the rear end. if it is part of the tranny does terry replace that too or is that on me?

 

[BrApple]

is the differential part of the tranny. my dad tried to tell me its in the rear end. if it is part of the tranny does terry replace that too or is that on me?

in a rear wheel drive car that differential is in the rear end ...

yes the diff in internal to the mtx ... you send the whole mtx to HMS and tell them what you want done and then pay for it ... :laugh:

check these posts out

mtx75 HMS options

standard build specs

 

[trhlz1222]

thats wat i thought about the diff too. thanks for the help guys

 

[trhlz1222]

well i just got ahold of terry and he gave me a rough estimate of 1900 for the upgraded tranny with keyed tower and slick shift fork kit. anyone have past expierences with the different mods they can do and which are the best to have other than just getting them all

 

[trhlz1222]

well i did some researching and revised the list. few more questions tho. with the turbo i need to upgrade to a 80mm MAF correct? if i do that do i need an adapter because ill be using the svt uim still? also a dmd off cta is 150 with the bolt, does that sound right? as for the gauges i need a wideband, a boost gauge and a air/fuel ratio correct? not really sure about what gauges. i already have oil pressure volts and oil temp. as for the alternator how long does it take for one to go bad? the thought of replacing it has come up and i was just wondering how close the stock one could be from dieing. last thing is where can i find a battery relocation kit? was it steeda that made them? ive decided to also try and put a rear sway bar in and front strut brace. do i need to upgrade the motor mounts also along with all the bushing in the suspension or wat not. im not sure what ones need to be replaced and which ones dont really matter. the last thing i think..lol... do i have to put the svt cams in because the stock 3l cams would give me more torque which should make the 1/4 faster shouldnt it? it dont really get to top end. the reason for this is because i read that the svt cams are much better for a turbo set up. ill post the list up later for any input on things i am missing. tryin to plan this out to help budget myself while im at school

 

[BAD SVT]

i shall do ma best. here goes...

with the turbo i need to upgrade to a 80mm MAF correct?

not necessarily. depends on how much boost u are planning on running. if anything 12lbs n below, stock should work fine. Ask jeff (reebs). he ran his stock maf for a while... till he sold the car i believe.

if i do that do i need an adapter because ill be using the svt uim still?

no. u do not. a tune for an 80mm will take care of that. adapter stays the same.

also a dmd off cta is 150 with the bolt, does that sound right?

yes. it is cheaper by about 20-30 bucks from bill jenkins tho.

as for the gauges i need a wideband, a boost gauge and a air/fuel ratio correct? not really sure about what gauges. i already have oil pressure volts and oil temp.

a wideband is the same as an air/fuel ratio guage. tells u when the mixture's off. am having that problem right now. looks like u should be good with those. i could be wrong but i don't know if oil temp is that crucial. someone will say sumthn if otherwise. oh by the way, what u want is a full sweep wideband. anything short of that is a light show. how do i know? my wideband gives me the info i need b4 i start tearing things up.

as for the alternator how long does it take for one to go bad? the thought of replacing it has come up and i was just wondering how close the stock one could be from dieing.

depends on how many miles u gat on it. if u have the slightest incling that it could be going out, then change it during ur swap. its too much of a hassle to worry about a 100dollar part that takes much time to change. thats what i did anyway.

last thing is where can i find a battery relocation kit? was it steeda that made them?

yes steeda made/makes em. u can pm him if u want. just to support a fellow ceger, i'd go with his kit. if not, any audio or performance shop should be able to do it.

ive decided to also try and put a rear sway bar in and front strut brace. do i need to upgrade the motor mounts also along with all the bushing in the suspension or wat not. im not sure what ones need to be replaced and which ones dont really matter.

both bars are excellent ideas. u'll be cutting corners like nuthn . As for the motor mounts, josh (pole120) makes solid polys. More engine stabilty and dash rattles :laugh:. if u're gonna get a rear sway bar. i'd say drop the car. if u dont have any rusts, hear squeaks, creaks or clanks in ur suspension, let em be.

the last thing i think..lol... do i have to put the svt cams in because the stock 3l cams would give me more torque which should make the 1/4 faster shouldnt it? it dont really get to top end. the reason for this is because i read that the svt cams are much better for a turbo set up. ill post the list up later for any input on things i am missing. tryin to plan this out to help budget myself while im at school

this topic is overkill really if u noticed in ur searching.
want quicker acc in lower rpms, then the 3L cams r the way to go.
want quick acc in lower rpms and hella quick get up n go after 3000rpms, svt cams are what u want.

wheeeew! i did what i could .

 

[Pudmunkie]

You should look into paul @ Liberty gears (google them) for your tranny build. If you're going to ship your trans here to Michigan, you might as well ship it to someone who used to build race spec MTX-75 transmissions. Generally a lot cheaper than Mr. Haines too.

 

[trhlz1222]

thanks for the help bad. and pud ill look into that. heres my more revised list. as far as i know i think im ready to start funding the project. hows it look? does it matter wat kind of pulleys i get because i know there are different types like alternator and such.

3L build
-3.0L motor
-SVT cams
-SVT UIM
-Clevite rod bearings
-Underdrive pulleys
-Nautilus turbo kit(turbonetics w/ .63 ar) $3525
-Nautilus LIM mod and fuel rail $500
-DMD with bolt $152
-42lb injectors
-80mm MAF

Exhuast
-MSDS headers
-Y-pipe w/ highflow cat
-3” catback w/ magnaflow muffler
-Magnaflow dual #14832 mufflers

Transmission
-Rebuilt by Terry Haines $1800 w/o shipping
-Spec stage 3+ clutch $480
-Fidanza flywheel $339

Suspension
-Rear BAT sway bar 21mm $129
-Front Strut Brace $149

Misc
-Battery Relocation Kit
-full sweep Wideband gauge
-rebuilt alt

 

[trhlz1222]

a wideband is the same as an air/fuel ratio guage. tells u when the mixture's off. am having that problem right now. looks like u should be good with those. i could be wrong but i don't know if oil temp is that crucial. someone will say sumthn if otherwise. oh by the way, what u want is a full sweep wideband. anything short of that is a light show. how do i know? my wideband gives me the info i need b4 i start tearing things up.

is this the type of wideband your talking about?
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM%2D4375&N=700+115&autoview=sku
now other than the wideband i need a boost gauge right? if i do does it need to be a vacuum/pressure boost gauge or just pressure??lastly does the nautilus kit come with a boost controller?