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300mmx278mm brake group buy

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Ah, I wish I saw this an hour ago. I just wanted to finish one corner before bed, so I was just down wrapping up the driver front. Ill take some pics tomorrow.

Basically, just follow the instructions. You will see what needs to be done when you arrive at that particular step. As far as the stud, once I ground down the head a bit everything lined up fine. After I did that, the amount of play built in allowed me to pull out the caliper bracket and bam, no more rubbing on the rotor.

Again, since I guess Im the only one who has started so far, Ill take pics on the 'updated' info War has given.
 
Well, because Im that kinda guy, I just went and took pics for all of those hoping to get a Sunday morning start on this. I have not yet started on the rear, so I have no advice to offer there yet.

This is somewhat in order of how you will encounter them:

First, my workspace:
warmongerbrakeupgrade009Medium.jpg


Here is where I made room for the upper spacer on the spindle.
warmongerbrakeupgrade006Medium.jpg


I also flatspotted the spacer a bit so that too much material wouldnt be removed from either the spindle or the spacer, just a little from both.
warmongerbrakeupgrade004Medium.jpg

warmongerbrakeupgrade005Medium.jpg



I then ran into problems with the caliper bracket hitting the upper stud (I have already hit it with the grinder in this pic).
warmongerbrakeupgrade007Medium.jpg


Here you can see after being ground down it allows the caliper bracket to sit flush on the spacers without touching the stud. It doesnt look like it, but with backlighting there is a gap (although tiny) between the stud head and the caliper bracket.
warmongerbrakeupgrade002Medium.jpg


I then ran into some problems with the rotor touching the inside of the caliper bracket. I removed the casting ridges as well as a bit more material for clearance. It doesnt take much. Also, as War has said, the spacers have a bit of play so you can wiggle the caliper bracket out a bit to create additional clearance.

Here is a pic after I cleaned up the inside.
warmongerbrakeupgrade001Medium.jpg


You can see the touched up areas here.
warmongerbrakeupgrade003Medium.jpg

warmongerbrakeupgrade008Medium.jpg


When you look at yours, all the inside edges were round and as you can see mine are now squared off. In my case, this made the difference.


Hope that clears things up a bit.


EDIT: I finished the fronts. FWIW, my passenger side caliper bracket didnt have any interference problems with the rotor. I still cleaned it up, but I did not remove much material at all. So you may or may not run into the problem. Im thinking not catching the stud interference on the caliper bracket probably had something to do with it, because I addressed that first (ground it down) before mounting everything else up.

Now on to the rears!
 
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List update Sunday Oct 8, 8 am

List update Sunday Oct 8, 8 am

Just updated the received sets.

REAR SET:
1.<shipped><paid> Rara
2.<received> LoveMySVT
3.<shipped><paid> BigJim
4.<shipped><paid> nadthomas
5.<received> 99 red SVT
6.<received> juspifool
7.<received> SVTforme
8.<received> Linkman
9.<shipped><paid> ExDelayed

BOTH SETS:
1.<received>Kremithefrog
2.<received> starjammir
3.<received> KingpinSVT
4.<received>DyComet
5.<received> RandyCSVT
6.<received> Cougar99
7.<shipped><paid> JEDsContour
8.<shipped><paid> JEDsContour
9.<received> rkneeshaw3.0
10.<shipped><paid> SvtTour98.5-3
11.<paid> mond12345 (NECO--Sets for sale via mond1234)
12.<shipped><paid> BlackE1
13.<paid> Mustang NEED to confirm shipping Addy
14.<shipped><paid>Nick A.(NECO)
15.<shipped><paid> TourDeForce
16.<shipped><paid> CSVT1214
17.<shipped><paid> ZomzSVT
18.<paid> Slowcat (NECO)
19.<paid> Bensenvill (NECO) [Deposit sent]
20.<paid> Y2KSVT [Deposit Sent]
21.<paid> SVT3391 [Deposit Sent]
22.<paid> Giddyup306 [Deposit Sent]
23. <paid> RodneyBur [Deposit Sent]
24. <paid> Stilov [Deposit Sent]
25. ? one set still available...(your name here)
 
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KingpinSVT said:
Well, because Im that kinda guy, I just went and took pics for all of those hoping to get a Sunday morning start on this. I have not yet started on the rear, so I have no advice to offer there yet.
....
Hope that clears things up a bit.
Click to expand...


Beautifull job on the pictures and additional write-up. I had a picture of the stud interference but it wasn't "on the car" so I'm glad you got a good one. Sometimes it just gets tiring maintaining this group-buy stuff. :D Thanks.

Just a note of advice, spray some paint over any newly ground surfaces. The factory brake bracketry are coated in something like zinc I guess but it comes off and rust will start. Any grinding you do will remove that stuff so paint it. I also advise knocking off as much rust on any bracketry that you can unbolt, and wire brushing the hub as much as you can, spray it clean with brake parts cleaner, then paint. It will last much much longer if you do. You can also put grease on the body of the long bolts and studs to prevent corrosion from starting inside the bolt holes as a year or two in moist climate will sometimes attack even coated bolts.

If you've got some time to let it dry, the VHT caliper paint is nice and thick and will last. You only need to get it dry enough to handle so you can reassemble.
I used the rustoleum 1500* black flat black paint on the brackets because it will adhere even if all the rust isn't removed and once it is heated it becomes a hardened coating that will last.

On another note, alignment.
It is best to center the caliper mounting bracket to the supplied intermediate bracket and use the free-play in the supplied intermediate bracket ->To->hub mounting ears first. THen use the free-play in the caliper bracket to finish centering the pad.

For the rears, I think except for getting the rear caliper bracket to accept the rotor thickness you will have a very easy time of it. It goes together similarly but the brackets bolt directly to the hub mounting ears with no studs. Also there isn't much force on the rears so don't go overtorqueing the bolts like crazy, just maybe 25 ft-lbs or so is good.
 
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This sucks just using a dremel!

I'm almost done with the passenger side, then I'll do the driver side.

Thanks for the pics and info kingpin. Besides doing what you had to do, I also had to grind down the middle of the caliper itself a bit.
 
I cannot imagine doing it with a dremel. It will take FOREVER trying to do so, but I guess its possible. I have a hand files, a dremel, die grinder, and an angle grinder (electric) and have used each for a specific purpose so far. My compressor hates its life right now, at 33 gallons it just cant stay full. It was running constantly while I was working on the rear rotors.

If your using a dremel, have fun on the rear rotors! Its going to take you a year, lol.

Another bit of info. Buy a mask. If nothing else, get one of those cheap white one time use ones. Im so dirty right now I feel like Mike Rowe. The dust from the rear rotors and inside the calipers goes EVERYWHERE when you are grinding. You can see a perfect line on my face where the mask and goggles were, plus on my wrists where my gloves stopped. My arms/face are black! You dont want this crud in your lungs.


BTW, how do you remove the rear caliper bracket from the caliper? The bolt (torx) under that little plastic cover does NOT want to budge. Its very difficult to move even a little. Im guessing you just work through it? Im trying to finish this job without having to bleed the brakes when Im finished.
 
BTW, how do you remove the rear caliper bracket from the caliper? The bolt (torx) under that little plastic cover does NOT want to budge. Its very difficult to move even a little. Im guessing you just work through it? Im trying to finish this job without having to bleed the brakes when Im finished.[/QUOTE]

Bolt is only supposed to be torqued to 30 ft. pounds. The Factory uses a blue loctite on the threads. With my long handle 3/8" ratchet, I used the palm of my hand and hit the handle a few times before it broke loose.
 
No problem. Glad you got them.


Kingpin, the torx bolt is just stubborn. You have to remove it eventually just get a good torx bit and a and a long handled ratchet for some torque. Just don't strip out the torx head.

A dremel? Ya that will work and I used it a little bit, but it will take you some time. lol
 
I'm not doing the rear just with a dremel hopefully.

I got the front done went for a drive. No noises. Did a few 50-30 stops, no noises. Then some 60 to 0 semi-hard stops, got some noises. They went away after some more stopping. Then some hard to 0 stops and the driver side was catching, locked up for a half second and jerked the wheel. Looks like I didn't grind enough. So I'll do some more tomorrow, though I think it would probably stop as more material (on rotor and caliper) wears away, I of course rather just do a little more grinding.

Are the rotors supposed to look like this as you bed them in? It's like it's braking more so on the top half then the bottom half.

1008062157fh3.jpg
 
KingpinSVT said:
Another bit of info. Buy a mask.
Click to expand...

So I just blew my nose and I swear to god the tissue is covered in coal. I was wearing a mask 90% of the time.

I am going to cross post my comments into a new thread in the brake forum. We should take the outside discussions there. Edit: New thread started in brake forum
 
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mine arrived thursday just as i was walking out the door to catch a flight . . .
and it will be awhile before I can offer any feedback on mine . . .
 
List updates for Monday

List updates for Monday

List updates

REAR SET:
1.<received> Rara
2.<received> LoveMySVT
3.<shipped><paid> BigJim
4.<shipped><paid> nadthomas
5.<received> 99 red SVT
6.<received> juspifool
7.<received> SVTforme
8.<received> Linkman
9.<shipped><paid> ExDelayed

BOTH SETS:
1.<received>Kremithefrog
2.<received> starjammir
3.<received> KingpinSVT
4.<received>DyComet
5.<received> RandyCSVT
6.<received> Cougar99
7.<shipped><paid> JEDsContour
8.<shipped><paid> JEDsContour
9.<received> rkneeshaw3.0
10.<shipped><paid> SvtTour98.5-3
11.<paid> mond12345 (NECO--Sets for sale via mond1234)
12.<received> BlackE1
13.<paid> Mustang
14.<shipped><paid>Nick A.(NECO)
15.<received> TourDeForce
16.<shipped><paid> CSVT1214
17.<shipped><paid> ZomzSVT
18.<paid> Slowcat (NECO)
19.<paid> Bensenvill (NECO) [Deposit sent]
20.<paid> Y2KSVT [Deposit Sent]
21.<paid> SVT3391 [Deposit Sent]
22.<paid> Giddyup306 [Deposit Sent]
23. <paid> RodneyBur [Deposit Sent]
24. <paid> Stilov [Deposit Sent]
25. ? one set still available...(your name here)
 
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DO NOT DRILL THE MOUNTING EARS HOLES! The directions say to, warmonger says not to. Just file out the mouth of the holes enough for the studs to pull through.
 
Kremithefrog said:
DO NOT DRILL THE MOUNTING EARS HOLES! The directions say to, warmonger says not to. Just file out the mouth of the holes enough for the studs to pull through.
Click to expand...
The instructions were written when a 1/2" wheel stud was being used. A change was made to go to a 12mm stud so the hole in the spindle would not need to be enlarged to 1/2" in size.

A simple fix for the uneven pad contact is to use half a shim on the bottom half of the pad backing. Either that or wait a thousand miles or so. I had this problem on one side and figured out it is because the casting tolerances on the caliper bracket and the spindle are no where near uniform. (also why some will require more grinding and finagling then others) So I would imagine the difference over 4 years of cars will be greater then on just one said car.
 
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