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2nd bad alt - getting mad

I had an issue with my alt going with the same symptoms you described (batt light flashing @ high RPM's) Took the car to a 3rd party maint shop and they didn't put a motorcraft alt in ... lets just say that the alt lasted a whole 3 days. (putting out 13.8 volts only). I went to Ford and they put in a reman'ed alt and they also said that the voltage regulator should also be changed at the same time the alt is changed because chances are, when the alternator failed it spiked the regulator at the same time which could cause the next alt to fail all that much more faster. So far I haven't had a problem yet.

p.s. I also spiked the battery at the same time so I had to replace my battery due to internal shorting.
 
that sucks dude. I thought the regulator was on the alternator?

Anywho, alt is back on, I'm kicking a whopping 14.4v and lovin it!!! took the car around a few times, happy it's back in working order. It's been a while.
 
Back to the first project:
So once my alt was back on the car, I tested the voltage, car off, battery showed 12.xv (can't remember), car on, 14.4v.... I drove the car 4 times prior. I went to go get the egr pressure sensor valve from auto zone (they had the best price), and my battery light flickers... AGAIN! Almost to auto zone (1/4 mile away) and my light stays on. I get my stuff, go back to the car, car starts up, battery lights still on.

I get home and test the voltage, while the car is on I was getting 13.9v.... within an hour I was at 13.6v (this was turning on headlights, turning them off, turning on the ac, etc.)

It looks like everything is still charging (new battery, new alt, new mega fuse)... Is it possible one of the connectors on the Alternator came off? The little grey one (tiny one) had a broken clip but still fit on perfect... I'm hoping this came off and is the cause for the battery light. I guess my question is, what does that little grey connector do on the alternator?

Thanks for any help. I'm getting very frustrated. I'm getting ready to sell this car.
 
Here is one way to test if the alternator, if it has good diodes or not. It works with fluke multimeters not sure if you can use your multimeter in this way or not. but I think there should not be any difference. I hope it help.
something else:
This is not my site, I mean I do not advertise for them! I just found that helpfull, and I hope you can check your diodes in this way!
http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf
 
Tools.

Tools.

Don't use re-man. Alternators.
Buy an Hitachi or Champion. Better components inside.
Go get yourself a 10mm 1/4 socket or wrench. This isn't the only job you'll need them for. Very common size.
 
The connector on the alt has a broken clip. I need to replace that connector and I'll be all good. I love this car, but I hate it at the same time!!!
 
actually i went threw 3 alternator before i figured out that the factory cable that you bolt to the alternator is all wrong.the best modification is to get a new power cable.the factory on is pointed towards the bottom of the alternator.and i noticed that at high rpms it was hitting my lower frame rail.and therefore grounding itself out and making the alternator :censored::censored::censored::censored: the bed..so i got a new one and bent the end of the connector where it goes into the alternator.so it had more than an inch and a half of clearence.try that and check the fuse.going threw that many alternator could of done a little more damage to you fuse to.....
 
Just finished this alternator repair

Just finished this alternator repair

I just did this Job (Props to Ray) and it took me about 4 hours spread over 2 days. Now matter how I tried, I had to pop out that ball joint to get the alternator body out.

This is my 4th alternator...Stock, ford repair, warranty repair, non warranty repair (the alternator shop said they would not honor the warranty since the stereo was modified, M********K**S) so I paid to have it replaced again. And now this weekend I just put in my 4th bad boy.

I got the flickering light after 2 days of driving with the stereo pumped, when I hit 2500 RPM"s I'd get the dim batt light. Then when the RPM's dropped, the light went out. When tested, with the RPMs low, at the battery I was showing over 14v, when I had the engine at over 2500 with the light on, it dropped to 12v.

I was really really hopping that my stereo was drawing too much power during the peaking of heavy bass. So I bought a capacitor...I've read mixed reviews on this, but what's another 75$ for a capacitor, when I'm dropping 10 lap dances on (I mean 200$) alternators like it's going out of style.


Do you have an upgraded stereo system??
 
I'm having a similar problem with my car. After starting the car, the battery light comes on and stays on. My voltage reads at 12.6 volts while the car is idling. If I open windows or use the A/C, my voltage will drop to 12.2 volts. I did not turn on the stereo because I was under the impression that the battery will drain too far to the point where the car won't start. At first, I thought the alternator was the problem. But I bought a new alternator 5 months ago. I'm sure that's not the problem. So I'm asking the experts here "What is the problem?":help:
 
Lavell said:
I'm having a similar problem with my car. After starting the car, the battery light comes on and stays on. My voltage reads at 12.6 volts while the car is idling. If I open windows or use the A/C, my voltage will drop to 12.2 volts. I did not turn on the stereo because I was under the impression that the battery will drain too far to the point where the car won't start. At first, I thought the alternator was the problem. But I bought a new alternator 5 months ago. I'm sure that's not the problem. So I'm asking the experts here "What is the problem?":help:
Click to expand...

What is the condition of the battery? It may not be charging anymore. When your alternator went 5 months ago, did the battery go flat a few times? If it did, the battery could have gone bad. Have the battery tested (free) at Advance or Autozone.
 
I had the battery tested at AutoZone today. The battery is good. It was recharged by them as well. When I put the battery in the car today, I get the results as previously mentioned in my last post.

Tony2005 said:
What is the condition of the battery? It may not be charging anymore. When your alternator went 5 months ago, did the battery go flat a few times? If it did, the battery could have gone bad. Have the battery tested (free) at Advance or Autozone.
Click to expand...
 
I had the opportunity to take a 2nd look at this today. I found that the problem was the mega fuse blew out. I simply took it out and connected the ends of the positive cables together. Now my battery gets fully charged again!:laugh:
 
So my car died again..... Turns out, I had a bad cell in the battery. Battery light kept coming on, and all of a sudden, the car died when I was pulling up to my house.
Battery tested fine 12.4v, but I noticed when I turned on my lights with the car off, the voltage dropped. it was dropping like a clock (12.4, 12.3, 12.2, 12.1 etc)... all the way down to 10.xxx before I turned off the lights. Checked it after the lights turned off, and it was back up to 12.3v.

I checked my mustang and with the lights on, it went to 11.88v right away and stayed there. That's how I knew it was the battery.

Check your batteries guys.

Replaced battery, cars working again.
 
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