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2000 Contour - 2.5l Duratec won't start

D

Don

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2007
Messages
33
2000 Contour 2.5l Duratec - 153K miles. Car won't start, replaced plugs and wires since they have never been replaced. Feb. '08 replaced both UIM and LIM gaskets. Car attempts to start but won't turn over. When I turn the key the fuel pump kicks in for about 1-2 seconds so based on what I read that part seems to be running fine. I also replaced the fuel filter Nov. '07. Should I look at the coil pack next or do a compression test first?:confused:
 
typically no start conditions are because of the crank sensor. try checking for codes and check the wiring to the crank sensor.

also make sure the plugs are gapped correctly to 0.055 inch, but that shouldn't cause a no start condition if they are not gapped right.

you can also check to make sure the coil pack is getting power. also if you removed it to change the plugs/wires make sure the wire are on correctly and that the ground strap is on the coil.
 
The only code I got prior to the plug and wire change was a P304, so I thought a plug and wire change would have fixed the issue but it hasn't. I'll check the crank sensor later tonight. I'll keep you posted and thanks for the tip.
 
Is there a trick to getting that sensor replaced? It seems to be in a pretty tight area. Or is there just enough room to remove it?
 
Don said:
Is there a trick to getting that sensor replaced? It seems to be in a pretty tight area. Or is there just enough room to remove it?
Click to expand...

check the easy stuff first it could be that your battery is discharged:shrug:check battery terminals, if it not that it could be your fuel injection system or loose or disconnected wires at the ignition coil or faulty coil

hope that helps any see anything wrong please correct me
 
I car wouldn't start before I did the spark plug or wire change. All I did was drive the car into the garage about 2 weeks ago and it hasn't started since..it sat for about 1 week before I tried to start it. The battery was changed about 8 months ago and I didn't remove the coil pack to get to the plugs...so that hasn't been touched. I'm assuming its either the crank sensor or coil pack. Can a person change the crankshaft sensor without much hassle?
 
if its been sitting for awhile I would still check the battery, doesn't matter if it was charged 8 months ago.
 
Installed the new crankshaft sensor and check the battery cables and the spark plug wires. Car still wouldn't start. If I had a battery issue, the car wouldn't try to turn over. It's close to starting but won't. I'm guessing the issue could be with the coil pack but is there a tool to test it before I buy one? Or if there are any other ideas, I'm open for suggestions.
 
You can test the coilpack with nothing more than a multimeter/voltmeter..

there is a how-to on the Autozone Repair guide page.

Also, here is one for the Crankshaft position sensor..

Edit:

Your problem could also be that while it was parked for that week it lost compression.
Try adding a teaspoon of oil to a couple of cylinders (through the spark plug location) and then re-attempt a start. this may be all that you need before you attempt testing the coil/CKP, etc.
You can also hold the pedal all the way to the floor (WOT) while starting and this will shut off the injectors, to prevent flooding and washing the oil away that you added... excessive attempts can flood a cylinder anyway and wash the rings, thus loosing compression.
 
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Don said:
Installed the new crankshaft sensor and check the battery cables and the spark plug wires. Car still wouldn't start. If I had a battery issue, the car wouldn't try to turn over. It's close to starting but won't. I'm guessing the issue could be with the coil pack but is there a tool to test it before I buy one? Or if there are any other ideas, I'm open for suggestions.
Click to expand...

theres 4 good tools to have
fuel injector pressure tester
compression tester
voltmeter
and the major one 0B2 II code reader
those will help you , and as it not being a battery issue it could be cuz its been sitting and as for it being close to starting still could be a discharged battery so just get it tested , just go to crapy tire they'll test it
 
Well I have to give you guys credit. I jumped my car this morning and after a few times of turning it over the car started. I drove the car to work this morning (40 miles) and hopefully the battery re-charged. Now here's my question, I bought the battery new about 9 months ago, but about 4 months ago I drained the battery when I left my lights on for about 8 hours. I jumped the car to get it going again and it has started fine ever since. Now I have this issue where the car sat for only a week, should I get the battery replaced? BTW, I did get a new alternator last Sept. so it should be charging the battery. I don't have any CELs as of this morning.
 
Well, now that you got it restarted.. if it was a LOW charge, it would be corrected by an operating alternator.

If it was lost compression, or washed out cylinders from flooding (due to excessive attempted starts) then that would be corrected now that it has run, as well.

If it is a bad battery (as in a bad cell, not just a low charge) or a bad alternator, etc.. then you will likely see it again, if you let the car set another week, etc.
 
Can and autoparts store determine if the battery has a bad cell even if the battery is fully charged?
 
That's only partially correct.

a battery that has a bad cell CAN read a full voltage, but won't support a load at that voltage.

Just simple measuring voltage at the terminals could show a full charge, but a load test would draw it down to 2/3 of the voltage, etc.
 
I haven't gotten the battery checked but I did get a CEL this morining when I had to hit the gas hard. It's a P304, which I got before I did the spark plug change w/ wires. I gapped the plugs at 0.54 and put in Autolite double platinum plugs. Could I be looking at a loss of compression in cylinder 4, thus causing the issue? The car currently runs fine but I would like to correct the issue before it gets worse.
 
P304 - code pops up every now and then...

P304 - code pops up every now and then...

Could the P304 code (cylinder 4 mis-fire) be caused by a bad ignition coil?
 
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