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A Couple issues. Please Help

N

nremaker

New CEG'er
Joined
Nov 6, 2008
Messages
26
Location
Green Bay, WI
1998 Contour SE Sport 2.5L Manual with 145,000 miles

Here are somethings that are bugging me with my car. Hope someone can help.

1) Airbag light started flashing. Stays off for a few minutes then back on.

2) Blower motor cuts in and out. I have checked fuses and everything is good. There are times when I can get it back on with my foot by wiggling it around. Is there a specific spot to look??

3) Brake issue. When hitting brakes with medium to hard pressure, it pulls left while the steering wheel moves slightly right. Everything that I have checked is ok. It is really bothering me. If this helps, whenever I am driving in wet weather (interstate/Highway) for a significant amount of time, it takes time for the brakes to grab. You have to really push hard initially and then they grab.

4) Last but no least. I have a clunk in the driver's rear suspension? In cold weather it almost feels like the left rear is stiffer? Very annoying and uncomfortable.

I hope you can help! I would really appreciate it.

The last time I was in a pinch with my car studdering badly, you were very helpful. The studder is gone and the car runs like new.

Thanks
 
nremaker said:
1998 Contour SE Sport 2.5L Manual with 145,000 miles

Here are somethings that are bugging me with my car. Hope someone can help.

1) Airbag light started flashing. Stays off for a few minutes then back on.
Click to expand...

There is a writeup somewhere on here for cleaning to collision sensor. but thats probably your problem

nremaker said:
2) Blower motor cuts in and out. I have checked fuses and everything is good. There are times when I can get it back on with my foot by wiggling it around. Is there a specific spot to look??
Click to expand...

Look on your fuse panel. There is a harness in the back right corner of the bottom side of the fuse panel(without opening it) There is a red wire and a green wire that go into it that are fairly thick, check the red wire if it looks like it has burnt up a bit. If it is still in good shape, pull the harness off and recoat the pins with solder so that you get a good connection.

nremaker said:
3) Brake issue. When hitting brakes with medium to hard pressure, it pulls left while the steering wheel moves slightly right. Everything that I have checked is ok. It is really bothering me. If this helps, whenever I am driving in wet weather (interstate/Highway) for a significant amount of time, it takes time for the brakes to grab. You have to really push hard initially and then they grab.
Click to expand...

My wifes does this as well. I havent gotten around to looking at it yet even, she never drives on the highway so I hadn't even bothered. Hopefully someone else gives you an answer on this. But just recheck everything, bushings, ball joints, and whatnot...

nremaker said:
4) Last but no least. I have a clunk in the driver's rear suspension? In cold weather it almost feels like the left rear is stiffer? Very annoying and uncomfortable.
Click to expand...

Bad strut bearing probably. Have a mechanic check it, you probably wont be replacing these yourself unless you are comfortable taking apart struts and coil springs and have a spring compressor.

nremaker said:
I hope you can help! I would really appreciate it.

The last time I was in a pinch with my car studdering badly, you were very helpful. The studder is gone and the car runs like new.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Hope this helps
 
Thanks for the help so far. I have the day off tomorrow and I will see if I can address some of the issues.

3) With my brake issues. I replaced ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearing, sway bar end links, brake componants, and new tires. The alignment is perfect. It doesnt pull when your foot is off the brakes. The only major thing that I havent changed is the lower control arms. Would that cause it?? They are the two bolts.

I will give an update tomorrow when I start digging into it.
 
Sounds like control arm bushings worn out. There was a recall on 98 Tours for the airbag. I think a pigtail for a sensor is replaced.
 
Count the flashes on airbag light to come up with a 2 digit code. '98 model had a recall for the front crash sensors, the long wire loom has a plastic cover that retains water. Eventually the water and radiator heat break down the wires to make insulation get cracks all in it. Wires then corrode to nothing. I had to remove both mine and replace wiring up to the sensor itself, I soldered the new wires in using same connector. Cut a hole in the bottom of harness cover so water would drain from it. Also, while both crash sensors removed, I cleaned them on mounting points and radiator support to make a good ground, module looks for it when powered up. Has worked good for 3 years now. Code 44 or 45 is the code for this problem.
 
Thank you FunInNorthDakota. Red wire on the harness was burnt up. I installed new ends to both the red and green and reinstalled. The blower is working great!!

"4) Last but no least. I have a clunk in the driver's rear suspension? In cold weather it almost feels like the left rear is stiffer? Very annoying and uncomfortable."

I pulled the wheels yesterday to do some inspection. Bad news on both rears. The springs were cracked in 2 spots on each side. The struts were also junk! Replaced both and the car feels great. Never noticed how much the car was sagging. The only problem now is that I rear feels so good that after tax time I am going to have to do the fronts.

1) Airbag light started flashing. Stays off for a few minutes then back on.

I have counted the flashes and have a better idea on what it is doing. It will blink 2 times then a couple seconds, then 5 times. Has anyone had this issue? Hopefully a cheap fix.

Now the only issue besides the airbag light is the front pulling under braking. I am going to give in and get a lower control arm. Hopefully that is the problem. If I am doing 1, should I also do the otherside???

I will keep you updated. Thanks again everyone!
 
thank you x100

thank you x100

FunInNorthDakota said:
Look on your fuse panel. There is a harness in the back right corner of the bottom side of the fuse panel(without opening it) There is a red wire and a green wire that go into it that are fairly thick, check the red wire if it looks like it has burnt up a bit. If it is still in good shape, pull the harness off and recoat the pins with solder so that you get a good connection.
Click to expand...


Thank you so much FunInNorthDakota for this tip.
I have been suffering with no a/c or heat for 2 years because I couldn't find the problem. (I'm cheap and didn't want to get cheated at a mechanic)

I thought I had jiggled every wire in the car trying to find it. But your answer led me right to the problem in 5 seconds. Thanks again.

Now, my plastic harness is pretty much disintegrated. I need to get another one. Is there a direct link where I can order it? I don't want to order the wrong part.
Or how much should I expect to pay for it at a junkyard?

Any and all answers from anyone are welcome...
 
Rick in NC said:
Thank you so much FunInNorthDakota for this tip.
I have been suffering with no a/c or heat for 2 years because I couldn't find the problem. (I'm cheap and didn't want to get cheated at a mechanic)

I thought I had jiggled every wire in the car trying to find it. But your answer led me right to the problem in 5 seconds. Thanks again.

Now, my plastic harness is pretty much disintegrated. I need to get another one. Is there a direct link where I can order it? I don't want to order the wrong part.
Or how much should I expect to pay for it at a junkyard?

Any and all answers from anyone are welcome...
Click to expand...

Glad I could help. It's kinda a PITA to replace the whole harness though. Just unplug the end, push the pin and burnt wire out of the connector and cut off the bad portion of wire. Then you can go to the parts store and pick up a new contact. You strip back the insulation on the good portion of the wire, and crimp on the new contact. Push it back into the connector and you are good to go. Total cost under a dollar :D

If the connector is in to rough of shape to use, look in the classifieds for anyone doing a full car part out. Some of those guys can cut part of a wire harness off if they are going to just send it to a salvage yard and send it to you for a reasonable price. Just PM them and ask. Otherwise, you should just go to your local pick and pull and cut it out yourself, it shouldnt be to expensive.
 
nremaker,

I believe the problem to be the Lower control arms as well. And to answer your second question about them, YES. Replace both of them. Your two-bolt LCAs are the cheaper of the two and four bolt designs. Check prices from rockautodotcom.
 
Yep. Don't forget the RA discount # too that is stickied in general. Steering flops all over when the LCAs are cooked.
 
Thanks for the advice. I am going to order next week. I will be doing both lca's, springs, shocks, rotors, and pads. I will keep you updated.

Is there supposed to be a connector not plugged in under the seat. I was checking things over on the car and noticed a grey connector that is not attached to anything. There are two that are connected besides this one. I dont have a power seat. It is a cloth 98 contour se 6 cyl mtx.
 
nremaker said:
Thanks for the advice. I am going to order next week. I will be doing both lca's, springs, shocks, rotors, and pads. I will keep you updated.

Is there supposed to be a connector not plugged in under the seat. I was checking things over on the car and noticed a grey connector that is not attached to anything. There are two that are connected besides this one. I dont have a power seat. It is a cloth 98 contour se 6 cyl mtx.
Click to expand...

in 98 contours Ford just put the connector there for the power seats regardless of if you got power seats or not. Made production cost cheaper. So you can switch up to power/leather seats without having to do any wiring, cool ;)

however, it sounds like the majority of your drivability issue is suspension related, check rockauto.com I happen to know that they have monroe-a-matic struts for $48 each for the fronts and $55 each for the rears. They are a decent inexpensive strut. Make sure to get new strut mounts while you are at it, this is very important.

Also, you need lower control arms, your car uses a 4 bolt control arm (98) rock auto sells dorman 4 bolt control arms for $73.88 each, this is the cheapest you will find them, I promise.

You should also do tie rod ends and sway bar links while you are at it. which any brand is fine I bought just the cheapest ones I could find.

Do all of this and your contour will drive like new!


Also, check all of your springs to make sure none of them are broken.
 
My car has the two bolt lca's. I have already changed the tie rod ends and ball joints. I am going to do the Lca's, front struts and springs. Any suggestion on sway bar end links?? Driver side is a little bent. Thought while I was doing all of this, I should just do them to.

I have done the rear springs (which were cracked in two places on each side) and struts. The back is perfect now.
 
Moog makes awesome end links. Don't forget new strut BEARINGS as well! Either that or take the old ones apart, clean them, and repack them with grease.
 
I dont need anything special. It is just a runner. I am going to take a look at the moog. Any idea how much? Rock auto doesnt list them.
 
Finished up the car yesterday. The bushings on both side lca's were terrible. Springs were ok yet and the struts were leaking. Replaced everything. Tie rod ends were done within a few months.

After everything was in, the brakes are fine! It brakes straight and everything is perfect! Thanks for the advice! It is nice to have a place to go and find out common issues with the car.

Thanks Everyone!

Nik
 
FunInNorthDakota said:
Glad I could help. It's kinda a PITA to replace the whole harness though...
Click to expand...

Thanks again FunInNorthDakota for your help.
I just wanted to follow up on what I did for the benefit of others having this problem. (I hate when a thread leaves me hanging on the final outcome)

I read in another thread or message board where a guy looked at 4 other Contours in a junkyard and all their connectors were burned up too. So I decided to buy a new one. I identified the part number as WPT-480 (Wiring Pig Tail). Surprisingly, it was for sale by Amazon, for about $33 (free shippng). Totally worth it, imo.
This is what you get:
wpt4801.jpg


and this is whats in the package:
wpt480.jpg


Anyway, installation was fairly easy (working around the fuse box is cramped). And now I'm ready for the Carolina summer heat & humidity.

Thanks again.
 
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