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Pioneer sub

S

steelblueSE

Hard-core CEG'er
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Jul 31, 2003
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Has anyone had any experience with the Pioneer ts-w302r? I am looking to add an inexpensive 12" sub for some bass and this is one of the subs I am considering.
 
I've got a used D1 for sale that i'll sell you for 60 shipped. PM me if you are interested
 
How is the Diamond a better sub? The Pioneer has a way higher sensitivity and will hit down to 20hz. On paper the Pioneer seems better. The other sub I have been considering is the Infinity Reference 1250w. It's about 30 more than the Pioneer but I'm trying to keep costs down.
 
99SEsport2K4 said:
How is the Diamond a better sub? The Pioneer has a way higher sensitivity and will hit down to 20hz. On paper the Pioneer seems better. The other sub I have been considering is the Infinity Reference 1250w. It's about 30 more than the Pioneer but I'm trying to keep costs down.
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Because i've heard and owned both the diamond and the pioneer and the pioneers aren't even in the same class in my eyes.
 
99SEsport2K4 said:
How is the Diamond a better sub? The Pioneer has a way higher sensitivity and will hit down to 20hz. On paper the Pioneer seems better. The other sub I have been considering is the Infinity Reference 1250w. It's about 30 more than the Pioneer but I'm trying to keep costs down.
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First off, almost all subs will say they can produce 20hz, 20hz is barely audible to the human ear and is considered sub-sonic. It is more of a pressure feeling than an audible tone. I'm sure youve heard of sub-sonic filters, you may even have one on your amp. They cut out freqencies below a set hz. people use them because it is pointless to waste energy on frequencies so low, and though it says it can do 20hz, it can actually be damaging to the sub.:shrug: You will find that almost nobody tunes their system to less than 40hz (I think I tuned mine to 53hz IIRC).
As far as sensitivity - If you see a speaker rated at 90dB, that means that with 1 watt of power, it will produce 90dB of output when measured from 1 meter away. Its basicly just saying that you will need more power with a less sensitive sub to get the same DB output. Honestly, in a small car environment, its not a measurement I would be concerned with. I would be more worried about building the perfect enclosure for either sub instead.
There are plenty of specs that are in the Diamonds favor, for instance X-max. Its a measly 8.8mm on the Pioneer. The component speakers in my doors travel more than that. Its 11.8mm on the Diamond which is much better for a "budget" sub. When you step up in subs you can get into some much larger #'s, My Diamond D6 is 17.8mm for instance and a JL 13W7 can go all the way to 32mm!
My advice is think more about what you want in your car, and then pick the right sub. Dont pick a sub and then build around it.
Do you want sealed or ported? large box or small? What are you powering it with etc?
 
I am looking to go with just 1 12 to save space and $. I plan to use a sealed box of about 1.5cu ft. I am still in the process of selecting the amp/sub. I have noticed on some inexpensive amps they use a class AB circuitry as opposed to the class D. They say D runs cooler but AB puts out cleaner sound. For my application which is better? . The rms of the system won't go over 300. Right now I am leaning more toward the Infinity Reference 1250w.
 
99SEsport2K4 said:
I am looking to go with just 1 12 to save space and $. I plan to use a sealed box of about 1.5cu ft. I am still in the process of selecting the amp/sub. I have noticed on some inexpensive amps they use a class AB circuitry as opposed to the class D. They say D runs cooler but AB puts out cleaner sound. For my application which is better? . The rms of the system won't go over 300. Right now I am leaning more toward the Infinity Reference 1250w.
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I am running a single infinity reference 1230w in a sealed box built to spec size. I have it on a sony xplod 2 channel amp bridged at 250 watts rms so iirc that is around the rms power of the sub. I like it alot. its no where near as much bass as the 2 12" JBL Loud and Clear subs I have in my other car but it fills in the base nicely and with component speakers up front there is a very large dynamic range.

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99SEsport2K4 said:
I am looking to go with just 1 12 to save space and $. I plan to use a sealed box of about 1.5cu ft. I am still in the process of selecting the amp/sub. I have noticed on some inexpensive amps they use a class AB circuitry as opposed to the class D. They say D runs cooler but AB puts out cleaner sound. For my application which is better? . The rms of the system won't go over 300. Right now I am leaning more toward the Infinity Reference 1250w.
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I really wouldn't worry about ab or d amps. How ever I am going to say dont skimp on the amp it just as import if not more important than the speaker. There are alot of cheap amps out there but wont stand up to what the state. If your looking with budget keep an eye out on Craigs list and ebay. And the same goes for subs

For a cheap amp I have always been a fan of the jbl XXXX.1 amp and have used the JBL 1200.1 in the past. If thats the sub you are looking at consider JBL300.1 or a JBL600.1 But thats my person opinion for a cheap amp
 
FFE said:
For a cheap amp I have always been a fan of the jbl XXXX.1 amp and have used the JBL 1200.1 in the past. If thats the sub you are looking at consider JBL300.1 or a JBL600.1 But thats my person opinion for a cheap amp
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Ahh, the old Power series! They haven't made those for about 5 years. And I thought they were still going for a pretty penny used and are tough to find. I almost wish I didn't sell my 600.1. But remember the whole big buzz about those amps was because they were a powerfull mono-block that was 1ohm stable. If he goes with the the Infinity in either SVC or DVC he won't be able to wire it up below 2ohm.
If you looking for new I'd suggest looking at Hifonics which is a division of Maxxsonics. True raw power and plenty of features for a budget. Crunch is their budget line.
 
yup if I was sitll init for spl I would be putting my 1200.1 to work(only about 3 months on it) Every once and a while I still contiplate a spl system just for the fun of putting one together.
 
You have to feed that RE. don't run it at half its rms potential at full gain. That's how subs get cooked. If you decide on the RE, which i would recommend, get a 4 ohm dvc and run two of those amps, or run a single larger amp.
 
do NOT run 2 amps on 1 sub, unless you have the gains matched perfectly correct running 1 coil a certain wattage and the other a different isn't a good idea.

You can run that SE off 300wrms FINE. as long as its clean. and not clipped power.
 
1 amp per sub your just asking for troubles with 2 amps. That Profile should run the sub just fine, just will be a little on the quiter side. Just don't crank up the gain on the amp to try to compensate for the lack of wattage. This causes cliping and can destroy a sub. If you are looking for the 300 range I still recomend that JBL300.1 I linked to, If you get the dvc 4ohm you can wire it down to 2 ohm and get 300 rms to the sub.
 
FFE said:
If you are looking for the 300 range I still recomend that JBL300.1 I linked to, If you get the dvc 4ohm you can wire it down to 2 ohm and get 300 rms to the sub.
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Agreed, watch that amp closely, if you can get it for anywhere near what that profile costs you are doing yourself a great bit of justice.
At the same time, If you get the JBL then stick with the DVC 2ohm sub. It will be the perfect match for that amp wired at 1ohm.

DO NOT RUN 2 AMPS TO ONE SUB!!! BAD BAD BAD IDEA!!!
 
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